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Qbix, I'm all for the Customer having options.... but just put out good data if you are going to throw out a comment. You say the Liteblox can save 22Kg. But 22kg is 48.5 lbs.... which is actually more weight than the stock Lead/Acid Battery in 991 which is 45lbs .... not sure how your getting NEGATIVE weight from changing a Battery.
Also the battery you are recommending.... the least expensive and lightest Liteblox is only 7.5 REAL Ah that costs MORE than our RS-30 which has 30 Real Ah. But then we have the ATX12-HD-RS.... which would beat up on the Liteblox with 3 more REAL Ah, about 80 more Cranking Amps at 75% less cost and you can actually buy it NOW in the USA.... and if you didn't like it or had a warranty claim could call us and get it dealt with immediately. Liteblox, last I saw, didn't have a Distributor in the USA. Also the Bluetooth thing while cool sounding has an issue, but that is for another thread.
Cross posted this group buy in the GT4 forum, I assume the same setup would fit. I have a friend who has a 997 turbo and needs a new battery, would it fit that car?
The battery hold-down that we are making will work with ANY Porsche that uses the Lead/Acid Battery size called the "H6" but also known as the "Group 48" and uses the bottom mount foot (cleat) located on the base of the battery. A majority of the modern P-Cars use this battery size including most all the the 911s, Caymans, GT4s, Boxsters etc. But I don't know every fitment or when exactly this became the standard battery in modern Porsches.... so there may be some variations on the older models..
They Cayenne's use the next size up which is the "H7" size... and some other P-Cars use this size also. But we will be making those too later.
So this first one we are making should cover the majority of the P-cars out there. And we can easily do other models once I know the sizes and type of mounting they have... but if Porsche has used that bottom mount over the years than that will be easy to make for other models that I'm not familiar with.
Thanks for the education. Can you comment on the pros and cons of the Porsche Lion battery?
On the Porsche Battery... First off I have not opened one.... there was no way I was going to pay $4000 dollars to check what they did. What I can say is we know the maker...this is a very advanced battery with top quality cells.
But also, as verified by the Porsche Tech where I bought my Car and whom has assisted me with all my questions about the PIWIS and other details of Porsche's in Car Battery Management there have been a few of over-discharge failures on that Lithium Battery that he personally saw. I want to state that this was told to me by the Tech at Porsche, and I have not verified that personally , but he also added he did not see that many bought, but that a few had come back and the customers were not happy because the battery was very expensive.
My closest experience with one was I was told by another GT3 RS owner that did buy the Porsche Lithium and that he had one for about 6 months and they could not get it to charge again after over-discharging and since his Dealer was good they just took it back and said they would take it up with Porsche. It would be great to hear from other Owners who might have opted for it.... but I can't really comment beyond that.
I think you will find that most would be interested in black as well. I for one like to keep everything looking as OEM as possible and I don't see myself going with raw aluminum, red or blue.
Any chance you would make black an option for the mount?
Thanks for the input and it appears you hit a nail on the head with all the Black requests. I just figured people would want those colors mostly but I was way off.... But BLACK has been noted, I'm sure there shouldn't be a problem at all.
I will ask tonight about the Black.... I'm sure it just as easy as any other Anodized color so there should be no issues... they just started the milling so they have time before the Anodizing process and I will inquire. I know black Anodizing can sometime turn dark purple but that is in the sun. I also like that wrinkle looking stuff but I think that is more elaborate of a process... but it no harm for me to check.
Would one need to lower the car a bit and get an alignment after reducing the front-end weight with a lighter battery? I guess it'd be prudent to measure the vehicle height before the swap and then after to make sure geometry hasn't changed too much.
Would one need to lower the car a bit and get an alignment after reducing the front-end weight with a lighter battery? I guess it'd be prudent to measure the vehicle height before the swap and then after to make sure geometry hasn't changed too much.
i was wondering the same, I’ve got a Porsche lithium battery from my .1 that I never even opened and undecided if to keep it for my .2 or sell it
The loss of weight in the battery is much less than the difference between full and empty gas tank (about 150 lbs with extended tank) - wouldn't worry about it...
Having stiff springs means that 33 pounds makes almost no difference to ride height - it takes 514 pounds in the front of the car to drop the height an inch (each front coil is 257 lb/in).
Oh yeah figure I might as well show you the mounting of the RS-30 Battery and a picture of my GT3 RS.... keep in mind this is the white plastic prototype I have been using in the car... but is shows better in the Picture anyway.... you will see the white plastic below the battery... excact fit of the bottom footer... just that one bolt holds it in place.
I live in Ojai CA and we have some great roads out my door, so very lucky...super green right now after a massive Nitrogen injection in the soil from the Ash from the fires in December... luckily I didn't have the RS back then...
Not to go off topic but I live not far from you and the road in Ojai is the best road around in my opinion!
The loss of weight in the battery is much less than the difference between full and empty gas tank (about 150 lbs with extended tank) - wouldn't worry about it...
Don't forget the donuts, milkshakes, burgers and fries.😉
The loss of weight in the battery is much less than the difference between full and empty gas tank (about 150 lbs with extended tank) - wouldn't worry about it...
Having stiff springs means that 33 pounds makes almost no difference to ride height - it takes hundreds of pounds to drop the car an inch.
Interesting. The thread linked in the OP shows that the guy's car actually rose 1/4" with the battery swap. He goes on to state he had to turn each spring perch two full rotations to lower the car back down to where it was...
Interesting. The thread linked in the OP shows that the guy's car actually rose 1/4" with the battery swap. He goes on to state he had to turn each spring perch two full rotations to lower the car back down to where it was...
I just read that post and it is weird that he said it raised the car 1/4". By doing the math, it should take 128.5 pounds to make a 1/4" difference in ride height with two coil springs each rated at 257 lb/in. Not sure if OP may have mis-measured or what...
I just read that post and it is weird that he said it raised the car 1/4". By doing the math, it should take 128.5 pounds to make a 1/4" difference in ride height with two coil springs each rated at 257 lb/in. Not sure if OP may have mis-measured or what...
I assume spring rates refer to each coil and not the whole axle, but not certain...
I don't know either way. Reducing weight with a smaller battery = good. But if it involves having to lift the car, remove the wheels, do a coilover adjustment, then get an alignment, it starts to sound like a bigger hassle than it's worth unless you're a die-hard weekend warrior who tracks their car a lot. Otherwise, I might not even bother. Only way to really know is to go ahead and do it, and then make sure to measure the before/after ride height. And then reducing suspension travel just to get the car back down to factory height, will affect other things since all the geometry needs to work together for one's desired handling characteristics.