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Got my battery today and installed it. A couple tips for your guys. You need to remove the oem too brack and side brack. When installing just install the oem side bracket back.
You might have to hit the reset button before starting the car for the first time also. Thanks for the great customer service Antigravity!
Got my battery today and installed it. A couple tips for your guys. You need to remove the oem too brack and side brack. When installing just install the oem side bracket back.
You might have to hit the reset button before starting the car for the first time also. Thanks for the great customer service Antigravity!
Your guys are beating me to the punch... those were good pictures. Thanks for showing. Your picture really shows well the "cleat" that holds down the battery.... For those of you that don't know, it's actually only one bolt with a cleat at the base of the battery (drivers side) that holds the battery in place. So it makes for quite an easy install and the hardest thing is lifting out the Lead/Acid Battery. Also and as DrDonger said... you will not be keeping the original OEM Bracket that goes over the lead/acid battery...and YES you have to press the RE-START on the RS-30 button for 5 seconds to wake the battery. It is shipped OFF/ASLEEP for safety.
Couple things for those who ordered already and are having their RS-30s and Trays delivered or have already received them.
1- Just realized I forgot to have our guys put the mounting instructions installing for the RS-30 Battery into the Trays. While its quite basic being its only 4 pieces, I just wanted to make sure you guys had a copy and it is also on the website LINK HERE FOR TRAY TO BATTERY INSTRUCTIONS.
2-The RS-30 battery is set up and ready to go as delivered to you. You will notice an extra Terminal in the box...that is NOT used with most the Porsches... so you don't really need it, it for older cars. The reason being is we developed a TALLER Negative Terminal for the Porsches (already installed when you get the battery) because they have that Black plastic Module attached to the Negative Battery cable clamp. So having a Taller Negative Terminal make it so that Plastic Module is raised a few millimeters for better clearance of that Module.... Again, as delivered it ready to put in and go, but remember to TURN IT ON after you install it.
3- You will notice the Positive Terminal looks sanded a little.... yes it is... it is not used. We Nickle plated the Terminals, and it turns out the Nickle plating was too slippery for some battery clamps so we scuffed up the Positve Terminal to make it grip better.
4-Will try to finish video by Saturday of how to install everything. It's actually quite easy and fast.
Expecting a 991.2 GT3 RS later this year, and I'm interested in your RS 30. Already have a Liteblox LB26XX in my track M3 which I had to program the car to let it know that a new battery has been installed, so that the charging pattern is appropriate and that the alternator can disengage under acceleration (to reduce parasitic loss), much like the 991 GT3 cars.
Therefore, given that you have a 991.1 3RS, what have you done to tell the car's BMS that a new battery has been installed? I know this is an important step as when I swapped my aged AGM battery from my M3, and installed the Liteblox, the charging pattern was incorrect (which I knew from a live in-car voltage reading), such that the alternator was constantly engaged in charging the new Liteblox battery, even though it wasn't necessary, therefore, losing the benefit of alternator disengagement under acceleration. This was corrected once I programmed the cars BMS to tell it that a fresh battery has been installed, and I could see the voltage drop to 12.x volts during acceleration, and the voltage increasing to 14.x volts during braking and deceleration.
The other scenario where there's a need to tell the car's BMS that the battery is fresh, is when the RS 30 automatically shuts off to prevent over-discharge; the car's BMS might therefore assume that the battery condition is poor, and when restarted, it might provide a charging pattern for a aged battery and keep the alternator constantly engaged, thus again losing the benefit of alternator disengagement during acceleration.
Got my battery today and installed it. A couple tips for your guys. You need to remove the oem too brack and side brack. When installing just install the oem side bracket back.
You might have to hit the reset button before starting the car for the first time also. Thanks for the great customer service Antigravity!
Did you by any chance weigh the battery and mounting gear that you removed? That would be super helpful to get an exact wight savings. Great pics. Thank you..
Expecting a 991.2 GT3 RS later this year, and I'm interested in your RS 30. Already have a Liteblox LB26XX in my track M3 which I had to program the car to let it know that a new battery has been installed, so that the charging pattern is appropriate and that the alternator can disengage under acceleration (to reduce parasitic loss), much like the 991 GT3 cars.
Therefore, given that you have a 991.1 3RS, what have you done to tell the car's BMS that a new battery has been installed? I know this is an important step as when I swapped my aged AGM battery from my M3, and installed the Liteblox, the charging pattern was incorrect (which I knew from a live in-car voltage reading), such that the alternator was constantly engaged in charging the new Liteblox battery, even though it wasn't necessary, therefore, losing the benefit of alternator disengagement under acceleration. This was corrected once I programmed the cars BMS to tell it that a fresh battery has been installed, and I could see the voltage drop to 12.x volts during acceleration, and the voltage increasing to 14.x volts during braking and deceleration.
The other scenario where there's a need to tell the car's BMS that the battery is fresh, is when the RS 30 automatically shuts off to prevent over-discharge; the car's BMS might therefore assume that the battery condition is poor, and when restarted, it might provide a charging pattern for a aged battery and keep the alternator constantly engaged, thus again losing the benefit of alternator disengagement during acceleration.
Interested to hear your thoughts on this. Thanks.
Here is my understanding of the situation regarding the BMS in the BMW vs the Porsche.... keep in mind I am NOT a Porsche or BMW Tech... so my information comes from talking to Porsche Techs, but Primarily one at my Porsche Dealer where I bought my car... and for the BMW I have NOT talked to a BMW Tech but to some people who are on some forums and are very knowledgeable about the BMWs. We are going to try to test the RS-30 in some BMWs but I'm waiting on the two persons to arrange this now. But in no way am I saying I know exactly what is entailed in programming of the BMS in the BMW, or Porsche... I have information only in the PIWIS change from a Porsche Tech. but note, when I asked the Porsche tech what exactly goes on when the lithium battery is put in the Porsche and you change the PIWIS, he could only state that he does not know the exact details because Porsche does not tell him the exact details of how the system works just what the changes that can be made are.
From my understanding from talking to the BMW people, the BMW system overall within the Cars is more intrusive system than the Porsche system... meaning the BMW's IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) supposedly has a more elaborate system in place if you change the battery out and also has a more elaborate electronics system throughout the cars that monitor most everything. When the Tech at Porsche showed me the differences in the PIWIS system, it was fairly basic and just allowed for the tech to select the lithium battery versus the lead acid battery and also allowed you to input the amp hours of that battery. On the BMW side, I have not seen the system or how it is programmed when a battery change is done, but I've read on some of the BMW forms and also been informed by a couple BMW guys that even if you change out the battery one time Lead for Lead you have to program the car again, or it flags you, and its an quite often asked question on those BMW forums about just changing a battery because the car then has a warning on the dash to deal with.. But as I have seen on the Porsche forums there is not the same question or seemingly elaborate measures when somebody changes the battery out. Which sort of coincides with the Porsche system not being so intrusive. Additionally I have heard the BMW system takes into consideration the age of the battery and changes the charging curve to deal with that, and as you stated therefore changes the charging aspects to the battery. I have not heard about that or see it on the Porsche forums.
In my earlier responses I have stated I have not changed the PIWIS system in the GT3 RS, and I have intentionally have not changed that because I wanted to see if a long term test of the battery would throw any flags or error messages . I have seen nothing to date, and have not seen an error code or anything indicating a voltage of anomaly. And I have done a couple things for testing that I did not want to do such as completely disconnecting the battery and letting the car sit for several days then re-connected the battery to see if I would get a code or error to pop up, yet nothing has. I cannot say the say that will be exactly the case for another model of Porsche, I have not tested in every model. But so far the 991.1 GT3 RS has not skipped a beat, nor have we heard of any issues yet, and I assume it has generally the same system as all the other 991.1s and .2s. and earlier model are less complicated.
On the issue of not charging/engaging during acceleration... that is not an something I would assume would be programmed, but again this is tech stuff beyond my knowledge... I assume that is a constant and that these car does that regardless if a new battery or old battery. My Tech said that was a system for Performance benefit, lessening the drag on an accelerating motor...not in regards to reducing Parasitic loss... so I assume that is not a feature that would be linked with programming a new battery install.
That about all I have on that issue. I know vehicles are getting more and more elaborate in their electronics monitoring each year, and especially with the Battery in the stop/start systems. They have more elaborate Intelligent Battery Sensors (IBS) (those boxes located on the terminals) and other vehicle BMS systems. So we will be monitoring that in the future, and as we see if any issues start popping up in certain vehicles.
Any chance to get one or two to Europe? Price and shipping to Czech Republic?
Thank You!
Hi Lukas,
You can send me an email... we will get you a shipping quote. I can tell you shipping overseas is expensive. It considered a Class 9 fully regulated shipment, and all the Shipping companies DHL, FEDEX, UPS added a extra fee of $75 dollars last January to handle this class of shipment (money grab).
Here is my understanding of the situation regarding the BMS in the BMW vs the Porsche.... keep in mind I am NOT a Porsche or BMW Tech... so my information comes from talking to Porsche Techs, but Primarily one at my Porsche Dealer where I bought my car... and for the BMW I have NOT talked to a BMW Tech but to some people who are on some forums and are very knowledgeable about the BMWs. We are going to try to test the RS-30 in some BMWs but I'm waiting on the two persons to arrange this now. But in no way am I saying I know exactly what is entailed in programming of the BMS in the BMW, or Porsche... I have information only in the PIWIS change from a Porsche Tech. but note, when I asked the Porsche tech what exactly goes on when the lithium battery is put in the Porsche and you change the PIWIS, he could only state that he does not know the exact details because Porsche does not tell him the exact details of how the system works just what the changes that can be made are.
From my understanding from talking to the BMW people, the BMW system overall within the Cars is more intrusive system than the Porsche system... meaning the BMW's IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) supposedly has a more elaborate system in place if you change the battery out and also has a more elaborate electronics system throughout the cars that monitor most everything. When the Tech at Porsche showed me the differences in the PIWIS system, it was fairly basic and just allowed for the tech to select the lithium battery versus the lead acid battery and also allowed you to input the amp hours of that battery. On the BMW side, I have not seen the system or how it is programmed when a battery change is done, but I've read on some of the BMW forms and also been informed by a couple BMW guys that even if you change out the battery one time Lead for Lead you have to program the car again, or it flags you, and its an quite often asked question on those BMW forums about just changing a battery because the car then has a warning on the dash to deal with.. But as I have seen on the Porsche forums there is not the same question or seemingly elaborate measures when somebody changes the battery out. Which sort of coincides with the Porsche system not being so intrusive. Additionally I have heard the BMW system takes into consideration the age of the battery and changes the charging curve to deal with that, and as you stated therefore changes the charging aspects to the battery. I have not heard about that or see it on the Porsche forums.
In my earlier responses I have stated I have not changed the PIWIS system in the GT3 RS, and I have intentionally have not changed that because I wanted to see if a long term test of the battery would throw any flags or error messages . I have seen nothing to date, and have not seen an error code or anything indicating a voltage of anomaly. And I have done a couple things for testing that I did not want to do such as completely disconnecting the battery and letting the car sit for several days then re-connected the battery to see if I would get a code or error to pop up, yet nothing has. I cannot say the say that will be exactly the case for another model of Porsche, I have not tested in every model. But so far the 991.1 GT3 RS has not skipped a beat, nor have we heard of any issues yet, and I assume it has generally the same system as all the other 991.1s and .2s. and earlier model are less complicated.
On the issue of not charging/engaging during acceleration... that is not an something I would assume would be programmed, but again this is tech stuff beyond my knowledge... I assume that is a constant and that these car does that regardless if a new battery or old battery. My Tech said that was a system for Performance benefit, lessening the drag on an accelerating motor...not in regards to reducing Parasitic loss... so I assume that is not a feature that would be linked with programming a new battery install.
That about all I have on that issue. I know vehicles are getting more and more elaborate in their electronics monitoring each year, and especially with the Battery in the stop/start systems. They have more elaborate Intelligent Battery Sensors (IBS) (those boxes located on the terminals) and other vehicle BMS systems. So we will be monitoring that in the future, and as we see if any issues start popping up in certain vehicles.
Thanks for the detailed reply. Good to know that on the 991.1 3RS that the alternator works as normal. For my M3, the alternator would not disengage on acceleration, until I programmed the car to make it aware that a new battery was installed. This was evident as the volt gauge showed a constant 13.6-14v regardless of decceleration or acceleration, but once programmed for the new battery, the voltage would drop when the throttle pedal was applied, and voltage would go up the moment I lifted off or applied the brakes.
just showed up today the holiday no less. Quick install, only quibble was the battery is a bit lose in the billet tray which I assume the bag of black/yellow butterflies in pics above are shims of which the box contained none. When I have a little more time I’ll shim the tray and or battery and in the mean time it is not a huge problem. Hit the reset per instructions and car fired right up. Weighed both on the bathroom scale and I’m showing -20lbs. Also, for those concerned about opening the bonnet look at the pic of my undercarriage. My shop ran a stainless braided wire up to the release and I have my fail safe. Good luck all and great job on the new product.
Last edited by lnirenberg; 05-28-2018 at 10:22 PM.
just showed up today the holiday no less. Quick install, only quibble was the battery is a bit lose in the billet tray which I assume the bag of black/yellow butterflies in pics above are shims of which the box contained none. When I have a little more time I’ll shim the tray and or battery and in the mean time it is not a huge problem. Hit the reset per instructions and car fired right up. Weighed both on the bathroom scale and I’m showing -20lbs. Also, for those concerned about opening the bonnet look at the pic of my undercarriage. My shop ran a stainless braided wire up to the release and I have my fail safe. Good luck all and great job on the new product
Thanks for getting some real weight numbers. 20 pounds saved seems less than expected.
Thanks for getting some real weight numbers. 20 pounds saves seems less than expected.
I agree. Thought it was more like 40lbs. 20 lbs is like adding the equivalent of maybe 3 hp. Perhaps handling differences but not sure for me since I am not competitively racing it would make much sense. Perhaps it does’t At 40 lbs either but at least I could somewhat justify.
I agree. Thought it was more like 40lbs. 20 lbs is like adding the equivalent of maybe 3 hp. Perhaps handling differences but not sure for me since I am not competitively racing it would make much sense. Perhaps it does’t At 40 lbs either but at least I could somewhat justify.
You seem to have a smaller capacity OEM battery than the 991.1 GT3 RS which has a 90Ah battery that weighs around 51lbs.
just showed up today the holiday no less. Quick install, only quibble was the battery is a bit lose in the billet tray which I assume the bag of black/yellow butterflies in pics above are shims of which the box contained none. When I have a little more time I’ll shim the tray and or battery and in the mean time it is not a huge problem. Hit the reset per instructions and car fired right up. Weighed both on the bathroom scale and I’m showing -20lbs. Also, for those concerned about opening the bonnet look at the pic of my undercarriage. My shop ran a stainless braided wire up to the release and I have my fail safe. Good luck all and great job on the new product.
That is weird. I weighed my battery and bracket at 47lbs.
Mine is the 70amp battery in the GT3.
05-24-2018, 07:29 PM
