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Old 11-21-2014, 01:59 PM
  #61  
Mike in CA
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Originally Posted by kosmo
4pages of comments on how to take off wheels?! I doubt a 5-lug thread would be as long.
Kudos to all you gentlemen who have the patience and fortitude to put up w/ Porsche's rendition of the wheel. I for one am not so I'll wait for a 5-lug.
Originally Posted by neanicu
Hilarious you think that 5 lugs involve the same process as CLs and that only the grease makes changing CLs take longer!
Let me put it simply : 70% of folks putting 5 lugs on do not use a torque wrench and are fine,as long as they follow a star pattern tightening sequence and do not torque the heck out of them to the point of breaking. Even if they torque them too much,wheels do not come off,but they might warp the rotors. Use an impact and it will take you 30 seconds per wheel.
CLs on the other hand : follow the exact procedure or you're f**ked!
I'm not going to argue the merits of one or the other. I've removed 5 lug wheels a thousand times and have never done a CL so there is definitely unfamiliarity and a learning curve to climb. And there's the added cost for the proper tools with CL's.

But I watched paver's excellent vid several times and there's nothing in there that scares me. He removed and replaced a wheel in about 10 minutes and once I've done it a few times I expect I can do the same. Since I always use optimoly grease on my wheel bolts, and carefully torque them in place I typically don't do a 5 lug wheel in a whole lot less than 10 minutes anyway.

5 lug wheels are no doubt easier to deal with, but given the durability improvements with the new CL's, in my mind they just aren't the huge negative that some make them out to be. They sure as heck wouldn't keep me from buying the car.


Originally Posted by montoya
^Bam, look above I knew you would ask! That's the one I have, works great!

There is mechanical loses in the mechanism so you should factor that in your torque wrench settings, this one is +/-10% so I always set my wrench for 120 lbs instead of 111 lbs (444 lbs/4).
A follow up question on the multiplier. I haven't used one before so this may be a silly question, but I gather that the reaction bar on the tool has to be braced against something strong. When removing the CL bolt, what do you brace the multiplier against?
Old 11-21-2014, 02:38 PM
  #62  
Zucc
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My local Porsche dealer always matches the price of any tires that I want to buy. They handle the install so the type of bolts or tools required is of no concern to me.
Old 11-21-2014, 03:20 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by bigkraig
Amazon has them although not always at the best price. We'd probably be better off organizing a group buy and flying someone to the EU to buy a bunch.

I see this one but it doesn't have the breaker bar feature: http://www.amazon.com/Stahlwille-721...+torque+wrench

Thats the wrong model, unfortunately for you price wise in the US its this one.
amazon link amazon link

Although there is a version with a detachable head, useful to either torque stuff anti clockwise for when you finally can afford that Carrera GT or to help check the torque required to loosen. the breaker bar "feature" isnt specified but the way the wrench works means it can stay set at the torque with no need to wind to zero when you put it away but also the mechanism is not in play so to speak when undoing.

these are about €700 ish from Germany.
Old 11-21-2014, 03:39 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by ttdan
Thats the wrong model, unfortunately for you price wise in the US its this one. amazon link

Although there is a version with a detachable head, useful to either torque stuff anti clockwise for when you finally can afford that Carrera GT or to help check the torque required to loosen. the breaker bar "feature" isnt specified but the way the wrench works means it can stay set at the torque with no need to wind to zero when you put it away but also the mechanism is not in play so to speak when undoing.

these are about €700 ish from Germany.

youch! $1500 in the US
Old 11-21-2014, 03:53 PM
  #65  
rockitman
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Originally Posted by Mike in CA



A follow up question on the multiplier. I haven't used one before so this may be a silly question, but I gather that the reaction bar on the tool has to be braced against something strong. When removing the CL bolt, what do you brace the multiplier against?
I too am interested in a better understanding of the torque multiplier approach to CL removal and installation.
Old 11-21-2014, 04:25 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by rockitman
I too am interested in a better understanding of the torque multiplier approach to CL removal and installation.
Its braced against the garage floor. The only issues i have with the multiplier is thats its a fiddly thing to use and maybe not as accurate as you would really like. Its great for undoing though as sometime these things are tight as **** to remove. I kept mine for that reason.
Old 11-21-2014, 05:24 PM
  #67  
Mike in CA
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Originally Posted by ttdan
Its braced against the garage floor. The only issues i have with the multiplier is thats its a fiddly thing to use and maybe not as accurate as you would really like. Its great for undoing though as sometime these things are tight as **** to remove. I kept mine for that reason.
Thanks. I thought about that possibility but wondered if the reaction bar would typically be long enough to reach the floor once the car was up on jackstands. Apparently so....
Old 11-21-2014, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike in CA
Thanks. I thought about that possibility but wondered if the reaction bar would typically be long enough to reach the floor once the car was up on jackstands. Apparently so....
I'm sure the forum would love you to share (when you are setup tool wise) your experiences/tools for removing and re-installing CL's like you did for the oil change. I won't have my car till the end of Jan or maybe early Feb. I may put off doing the CL until it warms a bit in the spring.
Old 11-21-2014, 05:34 PM
  #69  
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From what I've read and not wanting to spend $1,500 on one wrench, I am planning to go with the precision instruments wrench + breaker bar.

So, one of these ~440lbs 3/4" drive torque wrenches/breaker bar kits:
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-i...s-c4d600f.aspx

some grease:
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...ode=997gt32whe

a clamp to hold the brake:
Amazon Amazon

and one of the alignment tools:
http://www.3rauto.com/departments/pa...arts/index.php
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...ode=997gt32whe
http://www.rennline.com/Centerlock-W...fo/T06/DELRIN/

I'm not really sure which alignment tool to buy, I think they are all pretty much the same. Still seems a bit ridiculous to spend 350 bucks on a threaded hunk of metal.
Old 11-21-2014, 05:56 PM
  #70  
rockitman
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Originally Posted by bigkraig
From what I've read and not wanting to spend $1,500 on one wrench, I am planning to go with the precision instruments wrench + breaker bar.

So, one of these ~440lbs 3/4" drive torque wrenches/breaker bar kits:
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-i...s-c4d600f.aspx

some grease:
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...ode=997gt32whe

a clamp to hold the brake:
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industri.../dp/B001DK9JW6

and one of the alignment tools:
http://www.3rauto.com/departments/pa...arts/index.php
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...ode=997gt32whe
http://www.rennline.com/Centerlock-W...fo/T06/DELRIN/

I'm not really sure which alignment tool to buy, I think they are all pretty much the same. Still seems a bit ridiculous to spend 350 bucks on a threaded hunk of metal.
I'm leaning that way on the split beam torque wrench breaker bar combo versus the multiplier approach.
Old 11-21-2014, 09:03 PM
  #71  
Mike in CA
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Originally Posted by rockitman
I'm sure the forum would love you to share (when you are setup tool wise) your experiences/tools for removing and re-installing CL's like you did for the oil change. I won't have my car till the end of Jan or maybe early Feb. I may put off doing the CL until it warms a bit in the spring.
I doubt I could add much to the great vid that paver already did, but I'll try to share whatever I can from the perspective of a first time changer. As soon as I get the tools.....


Originally Posted by bigkraig
From what I've read and not wanting to spend $1,500 on one wrench, I am planning to go with the precision instruments wrench + breaker bar.

So, one of these ~440lbs 3/4" drive torque wrenches/breaker bar kits:
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-i...s-c4d600f.aspx

some grease:
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...ode=997gt32whe

a clamp to hold the brake:
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industri.../dp/B001DK9JW6

and one of the alignment tools:
http://www.3rauto.com/departments/pa...arts/index.php
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...ode=997gt32whe
http://www.rennline.com/Centerlock-W...fo/T06/DELRIN/

I'm not really sure which alignment tool to buy, I think they are all pretty much the same. Still seems a bit ridiculous to spend 350 bucks on a threaded hunk of metal.
I think I'm in the same place you are, bigkraig. That's probably the same lineup of tools I'll go with as others have recommended the precision instruments pieces as well. Right now I'm leaning toward the Rennline centering tool as it's $75 cheaper than the Porsche one and has that cap to protect the tool threads as well as a spare tool to remove the CL center cap. But at $350 they are indeed still ridiculously proud of it.
Old 11-21-2014, 10:41 PM
  #72  
MaxLTV
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Originally Posted by bigkraig
From what I've read and not wanting to spend $1,500 on one wrench, I am planning to go with the precision instruments wrench + breaker bar.

So, one of these ~440lbs 3/4" drive torque wrenches/breaker bar kits:
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-i...s-c4d600f.aspx

some grease:
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...ode=997gt32whe

a clamp to hold the brake:
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industri.../dp/B001DK9JW6

and one of the alignment tools:
http://www.3rauto.com/departments/pa...arts/index.php
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...ode=997gt32whe
http://www.rennline.com/Centerlock-W...fo/T06/DELRIN/

I'm not really sure which alignment tool to buy, I think they are all pretty much the same. Still seems a bit ridiculous to spend 350 bucks on a threaded hunk of metal.
I have this same set of tools minus the alignment tool (so just the wrench/breaker, grease and clamp), and I did wheels with way less than 5 min per wheel the second time I did it. For the record, it takes me 40 minutes per corner to change brake pads, so I'm not mechanically inclined by any means. Paver's video is 10 mins per wheel only because he talks through every tiny detail. Doing it without talking is 3 times as quick. I do not see the need for alignment tool, except maybe for those who have PCCB.

My point is, as long as wheels do not fall off, it's a non-issue. The only issue is that you have to have tools & grease with you and possibly do it yourself when visiting a non-specialized tire shop.
Old 11-21-2014, 10:44 PM
  #73  
bigkraig
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I don't get my car until March so i'll probably hold off on buying the tools to remove the wheels until after the car arrives. But please do keep us posted on how it all goes.
Old 11-21-2014, 10:45 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by MaxLTV
I have this same set of tools minus the alignment tool (so just the wrench/breaker, grease and clamp), and I did wheels with way less than 5 min per wheel the second time I did it. For the record, it takes me 40 minutes per corner to change brake pads, so I'm not mechanically inclined by any means. Paver's video is 10 mins per wheel only because he talks through every tiny detail. Doing it without talking is 3 times as quick. I do not see the need for alignment tool, except maybe for those who have PCCB.

My point is, as long as wheels do not fall off, it's a non-issue. The only issue is that you have to have tools & grease with you and possibly do it yourself when visiting a non-specialized tire shop.
That's good to hear!
Old 11-21-2014, 11:27 PM
  #75  
Mike in CA
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Originally Posted by MaxLTV
I have this same set of tools minus the alignment tool (so just the wrench/breaker, grease and clamp), and I did wheels with way less than 5 min per wheel the second time I did it. For the record, it takes me 40 minutes per corner to change brake pads, so I'm not mechanically inclined by any means. Paver's video is 10 mins per wheel only because he talks through every tiny detail. Doing it without talking is 3 times as quick. I do not see the need for alignment tool, except maybe for those who have PCCB.

My point is, as long as wheels do not fall off, it's a non-issue. The only issue is that you have to have tools & grease with you and possibly do it yourself when visiting a non-specialized tire shop.
Good feedback. I'd skip the alignment tool too except for the fact that I do have PCCB's. When it comes time for new tires I'll remove the wheels and haul everything to the tire shop in the Cayenne. That's what it's for....


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