montoya

I've changed all 4 in about 15 minutes under pressure during a time trial- it's a blur, but can be done. And yes, regrease and loosen+tighten per procedure

Tip #1- use a torque multiplier, so much easier! With one your wrenching is controlled and switching between small breaker bar and torque wrench is easy.
Tip #2- use a rolling mechanics chair with a tray for your gloves, grease and tools
Tip #3- use the Irwin clamp (duh), but many still think this truck contraption is better
Tip #4- Keep square rod and know the quick movement to release the CL locking pin- takes two seconds if you know, minutes if you don't.

Practice- it is not that hard, but when I'm farting around in the garage not under pressure, it can take 45 minutes.

MayorAdamWest

What does this mean?

Mike in CA

As long as this thread has been revived.....

After doing one wheel just to see what was involved, I did the other three CL's a couple of weeks later to make sure they were properly greased since the first one seemed a little "dry" to me. If you don't count the time spent lifting the car and moving the jack around, which obviously is necessary whether you have CL's or not, it's easy to remove and replace a wheel in less than 10 minutes without rushing. I suppose one tip is that, according to the procedure, it's not necessary to disassemble and re-grease the internal parts of the central bolt every time you change the wheel which is a definite time saver.

It may be weird, but I actually enjoy the process. Yeah, I wasn't in a dirty environment at the track; hot, tired, and in a rush....I get that. But under the right conditions, working with the precision parts and tools is more fun than just cracking lug bolts. Go figure.....

montoya

Porsche supplies a tool for the CL pin that fits in the center of the pin, I've not used it since it's new with the 991, but a extension for a rachet wrench fits in their too- AKA 'square rod'.

What you need to do is master the movement to release the CL pin when it is still depressed after final torquing of the wheels. the pin needs to spring up flush with CL nut to do it's job. So to release it takes a little practice just a quick back and forth rotation does the job. It springs up about 25% of the time on the .2 GT3 without needing to do this, so this is why I say a little practice to know how to do it saves time.

Mike in CA

Maybe the design of the 991 GT3 locking mechanism is different. I'm a CL newbie, and using a socket extension, releasing the locking pin has been quick and easy. Or maybe I've just been lucky....

montoya

A lot of people have no trouble with this on the .2, so I think it's just a 'feel' issue. The first few times I did it it took a while to understand you aren't trying to pull it out, just rocking it to get the splines aligned so it springs in place.

Mike in CA

Yes.

CALSE

+1

Waxer

Sunny_M3

montoya

WTF- This is why I don't let anyone but a Porsche Dealer or my personal mechanic touch my Center Locks.

Gastrogt3

Truly awful. Breaking every rule there is – I wouldn't be happy to drive the car after that

RDCR

First the diffuser flew off the Ferrari, then he got the flat . . . . . . bad things happen in 3's.

tonymission

I had a local wheel shop give me a hard time stating they know what they're doing and "get these all the time" when I asked about their process with CLs. They didn't want me to help out with that part... sure enough, I got out there after they put the caps on, took one off and saw that the pins were recessed and not locked. On all four wheels.

jkfuel

That's smart of you to check. That could have been disastrous!