Building my Cayman S Race Car
#31
I somehow missed this thread until now. We have been through most/all of the build/performance issues with a Cayman race car. Please let me know how I can help.
The car in my avatar currently runs a 4.2L M97 pulled back to 350 RWHP via an AEM ECU (to maintain class weight/RWHP). Trans is a re-geared G87/21 with GT Pro differential.
For engine cooling we separated the water and oil loops. Oil side is handled though a large oil cooler ducted through the deck lid. For the water side we run the stock outboard radiators and the GT3 Cup center radiator and proper ducting. We have no engine cooling issues.
Also, since the car runs a full under tray/diffuser we had to develop a new cooling system for the trans. It works quite well and may be the solution for those of you with PDK overheating issues.
Cheers,
The car in my avatar currently runs a 4.2L M97 pulled back to 350 RWHP via an AEM ECU (to maintain class weight/RWHP). Trans is a re-geared G87/21 with GT Pro differential.
For engine cooling we separated the water and oil loops. Oil side is handled though a large oil cooler ducted through the deck lid. For the water side we run the stock outboard radiators and the GT3 Cup center radiator and proper ducting. We have no engine cooling issues.
Also, since the car runs a full under tray/diffuser we had to develop a new cooling system for the trans. It works quite well and may be the solution for those of you with PDK overheating issues.
Cheers,
#32
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I somehow missed this thread until now. We have been through most/all of the build/performance issues with a Cayman race car. Please let me know how I can help.
The car in my avatar currently runs a 4.2L M97 pulled back to 350 RWHP via an AEM ECU (to maintain class weight/RWHP). Trans is a re-geared G87/21 with GT Pro differential.
For engine cooling we separated the water and oil loops. Oil side is handled though a large oil cooler ducted through the deck lid. For the water side we run the stock outboard radiators and the GT3 Cup center radiator and proper ducting. We have no engine cooling issues.
Also, since the car runs a full under tray/diffuser we had to develop a new cooling system for the trans. It works quite well and may be the solution for those of you with PDK overheating issues.
Cheers,
The car in my avatar currently runs a 4.2L M97 pulled back to 350 RWHP via an AEM ECU (to maintain class weight/RWHP). Trans is a re-geared G87/21 with GT Pro differential.
For engine cooling we separated the water and oil loops. Oil side is handled though a large oil cooler ducted through the deck lid. For the water side we run the stock outboard radiators and the GT3 Cup center radiator and proper ducting. We have no engine cooling issues.
Also, since the car runs a full under tray/diffuser we had to develop a new cooling system for the trans. It works quite well and may be the solution for those of you with PDK overheating issues.
Cheers,
Interesting on the separation of the oil/coolant loops...
#33
OP--You and your son are a lucky pair! Enjoy your new ride, once finished. Looks like it'll be a ton of fun.
#35
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Thread Starter
The car is at the paint shop getting ready to be painted.
First step was to remove any oxidation from the tubing and then apply a couple primer layers, paint, and clear.
Hopefully will be ready by tomorrow.
Once ready, I have to reinstall the wiring harness, which will take me a few days (I hope I remember how everything was snaked together.
First step was to remove any oxidation from the tubing and then apply a couple primer layers, paint, and clear.
Hopefully will be ready by tomorrow.
Once ready, I have to reinstall the wiring harness, which will take me a few days (I hope I remember how everything was snaked together.
#36
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Thread Starter
So reinstalled wiring harness and interior pieces. There are some items I can remove (ie. Airbag sensors/control unit).
Tomorrow it's getting dropped off for a bunch of items, including LSD, Single mass flywheel / clutch, Fire system, AIM, GT3 Master Cylinder, GT3 Brake Booster, Short Shift Kit, Rear Wing / Front Splitter, Kill Switch, Seats/harness installation, 3rd Radiator, and a few other little items...
Tomorrow it's getting dropped off for a bunch of items, including LSD, Single mass flywheel / clutch, Fire system, AIM, GT3 Master Cylinder, GT3 Brake Booster, Short Shift Kit, Rear Wing / Front Splitter, Kill Switch, Seats/harness installation, 3rd Radiator, and a few other little items...
#37
Wow, nice paint work. Your car is coming along nicely.
#38
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Nice build - just three comments:
- Why keep the handbrake?
- Look into a riser kit for the shifter
- It would be good to relocate and wrap the under seat electrics while you are at it. If you every drive in heavy rain, they will get wet and short out
- Why keep the handbrake?
- Look into a riser kit for the shifter
- It would be good to relocate and wrap the under seat electrics while you are at it. If you every drive in heavy rain, they will get wet and short out
#39
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I could remove the handbrake, for sure... I'm also going to pull the air bag controller and a few more things. Had to get it to my buddy's shop to take care of some items that I don't have the tools nor experience with.
Thanks again for the recommendations.
#40
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Thread Starter
Thanks!
BGB motorsports built the cage a local paint shop down the road did the paint work.
A couple more pieces need to be installed on the cage but I had to get the dash installed first. Spent around 20 hours over the weekend installing and connecting the wiring harness. That was fun.
BGB motorsports built the cage a local paint shop down the road did the paint work.
A couple more pieces need to be installed on the cage but I had to get the dash installed first. Spent around 20 hours over the weekend installing and connecting the wiring harness. That was fun.
#41
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If you haven't; already done it, I would suggest you remove the fuel carbon canister in your front trunk as well. Its heavy and useless for a race car.
Nice build!
Nice build!
#42
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#43
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The canister removal is easy. The fuel vent removal is tricky and I would have an experienced shop do it. You will still need to vent the fuel intake so it won't take you forever to fill up the tank, but you can put a valve on that and close it for when you are not fueling. I didn't do it myself so I have no more details but I can send you pictures when I get my car back this weekend. Just send me a PM if interested in more detail.
#44
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The canister removal is easy. The fuel vent removal is tricky and I would have an experienced shop do it. You will still need to vent the fuel intake so it won't take you forever to fill up the tank, but you can put a valve on that and close it for when you are not fueling. I didn't do it myself so I have no more details but I can send you pictures when I get my car back this weekend. Just send me a PM if interested in more detail.