Cayman as DD
#31
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If that was an S and located near me I'd be tempted to take my Turbo and Boxster and check book to the dealer and buy that sucker.
Not sure you need the CPO warranty. The car's an '11 and has just 2300 miles. The warranty doesn't start until the car is sold so you get 50K miles and 4 years.
However, I suspect the car has been 'punched' and the warranty started counting when this was done. The dealer should tell you but you'll have to ask.
Even so, problems occur from miles driven and the car's 2300 miles counts towards manifesting any problems the car might develop while in (or out of) warranty.
But if you want the CPO warranty tell them you'll buy the car for $54.5K with the CPO warranty. Or offer less and then if they refuse your offer (and they will) bump your offer by say $250. Then if they refuse that offer (and they will), bump by $125. And take your time before you counter. Walk out side out of earshot -- but do not walk over to the car! -- and act like your thinking. Take out your calculator and punch in numbers. Make notes on a small notebook you have with you. Make a cell phone call and be a bit animated while on the phone.
The car should be treated to a an/oil filter service, and have the alignment checked. Have the DME overrev readout read. Even thought the car equipped with a PDK it would be nice to have this in front of you so you can see if the car's been taken to redline alot in those 2300 miles.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Not sure you need the CPO warranty. The car's an '11 and has just 2300 miles. The warranty doesn't start until the car is sold so you get 50K miles and 4 years.
However, I suspect the car has been 'punched' and the warranty started counting when this was done. The dealer should tell you but you'll have to ask.
Even so, problems occur from miles driven and the car's 2300 miles counts towards manifesting any problems the car might develop while in (or out of) warranty.
But if you want the CPO warranty tell them you'll buy the car for $54.5K with the CPO warranty. Or offer less and then if they refuse your offer (and they will) bump your offer by say $250. Then if they refuse that offer (and they will), bump by $125. And take your time before you counter. Walk out side out of earshot -- but do not walk over to the car! -- and act like your thinking. Take out your calculator and punch in numbers. Make notes on a small notebook you have with you. Make a cell phone call and be a bit animated while on the phone.
The car should be treated to a an/oil filter service, and have the alignment checked. Have the DME overrev readout read. Even thought the car equipped with a PDK it would be nice to have this in front of you so you can see if the car's been taken to redline alot in those 2300 miles.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#32
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You're welcome. Apparently it is a relatively easy installation but please don't take my word for it - rather check with them directly. Also, you might want to search for discussions of PDK with & without SC. Good luck!
#33
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Again, helpful comments. Thanks. I'll ask about the over rev readout. Agree on countering at 54.5k with CPO. I had the same thought on the the fact that I probably don't need the additional 2 years but if I can get for the same price, why not? Is CPO transferable it I sell it? Thanks much!
Be sure you see the warranty paperwork and confirm the car has the new/improved CPO warranty. IIRC on Porsche's USA website there's some documentation about the CPO warranty. I got the CPO paper work when I bought the car in fact I had it to review before I bought the car. And another dealer printed out what was covered by the CPO warranty when the battery died. The battery is not covered as are most wear items.
It is up to you. If you can get the CPO warranty for essentially for free then get it. If you decide to sell the car then the car having a CPO warranty certainly adds to the car's desirablity and should make selling the car easier and for more money than you would sell it for it did not have the warranty. But avoid paying too much for the warranty cause you will not get all of this money back when you sell the car.
Or if you plan on keeping the car and driving the car a lot of miles the CPO warranty can provide considerable of peace of mind.
I know in the case of my 03 Turbo, I would probably not have bought the car sans a CPO warranty (and the original factory warranty had expired on time), even though the car only had around 10K miles on it.
The Turbo's CPO warranty paid for itself and then some. The car though a very good car and in pristine condition and well-taken care of (for a little used car, though it had sort of (but not too skimpy) regular servicing) and one I might own for a long time and drive for many miles (as I'm likely to do: my 02 Boxster bought new in 02 now has over 241K miles on it) still required over $10K of work which was all covered under the CPO warranty.
But I note that all of this work (except the clutch accumulator and clutch slave cylinder) came about while the car still had less than 50K miles on it (it has over 58K miles now) so had the car been driven about 12.5K miles per year instead of 1666K miles per year these problems would have appeared while the new car warranty was still in effect. In fact had the 1st owner put about 35K miles on the car all but the clutch accumulator and clutch slave cylinder would have occurred.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#34
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... were you ever a Lotus Buzzbomb jockey? Your handle sounds familiar.
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#37
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Well, I went and checked the 2011 Caymen out. It has 2400 miles. Lists for $60k and they will sell for 54.5k with out CPO warranty or $56.9k with CPO. Pretty slim discount if you ask me. I walked but interested in your thoughts? Is this the best I'll be able to do? Thanks
#38
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Well, I went and checked the 2011 Caymen out. It has 2400 miles. Lists for $60k and they will sell for 54.5k with out CPO warranty or $56.9k with CPO. Pretty slim discount if you ask me. I walked but interested in your thoughts? Is this the best I'll be able to do? Thanks
#40
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Thanks for the comments. Price is only an issue in that I really don't like to spend too much on a car that is going depreciate quickly with the miles I'll put on. Hadn't thought about an '09 base versus an '07 or '08 S. I'd prefer to stay in the $35-$42k price range. Is there a lot of difference between the S and the base car? Sorry I have not yet done my research....just starting this.
2007 model will give you the 'variocam plus' as well as the reinforced IMS. IMS is a non-issue in 07+, whereas some earlier 05+ 987 may still have the old IMS design.
Also the 07-08 Boxster have equivalent power to a Cayman (prior to 07 the Boxster is slightly detuned).
2009+ cars have no ims but they are also significantly more expensive for basically THE SAME CAR, unless you want a pdk.
And no, there isn't a big power or handling difference between a base and an S 987, or between any model of 987.1 vs. 987.2.
Don't worry about what others claim to say about the 20-35hp difference on paper, in real-life application the power is very similar.
If anyone wants to be truly honest they know that jumping from a base 987 into as S, you will not be blown away with any supposed level of increased power.
Shop for a 2007 987.1 by condition, price, and options -regardless of if it is a base or S.
Sport Seats, and Sport Steering Wheel are also must have options.
Last edited by Fresh.Sizzle; 05-21-2021 at 03:04 PM.
#41
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Pre 2009 Caymans (and other Porsche models) do have an issue with IMS failures. Do a Google search, the problem is well documented. Porsche eliminated the IMS from the 2009 direct injection engine and IMO that along with the other changes made that year make it well worth the extra $$.
No, 987 (07+) certainly do not have IMS bearing issues, and no it is not 'well documented' on google. No need to overblow a non-issue. It is partly because of such fear-mongering that the 987.2 are over-priced in the used market.
-IMS were prone to failure only in the 986 and 996 cars (and more specifically in only certain years of later model 986 and 996 cars) as well as some early 05+ 987 [exception is 996 turbo and GT models that had a different engine design].
-P.s; 2009+ 987 had no IMS regardless of direct injection which only came in the S model, the 2009 base 2.9 does not have DFI, it is an EFI.
07+ 987 were guaranteed to have the more robust redesigned IMS bearings. The chances of these failing is the same as you winning the lottery in the next 5 minutes.
Last edited by Fresh.Sizzle; 05-21-2021 at 03:34 PM.
#42
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You win today's DEAD THREAD REVIVAL AWARD - 10 years since the thread was last posted to, The 987's were still in production when this thread was last posted to!
Send a self-addressed stamped envelope to Rennlist to receive your award!
@Fresh.Sizzle I wonder if the guy who you're responding to is even on the forum anymore. I'll have to go look... you've responded to a 10 year old statement.
Looked - one of them at least hasn't been here in a while: Last Activity: 11-17-2018 10:38 PM. The other one: Last Activity 09-17-2018 11:01 AM. You're debating ghosts.
Last edited by deilenberger; 05-21-2021 at 11:32 PM.