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What is the easiest way to get to this if you can't jack the car (too low, racer jack I have will fit, but not on the jack points and I don't want to damage frame). Looks like I may be able to remove the front screws of the batwing and flex the plastic and get my hand in there, will I have leverage? May just buy a factory jack and get the starter to hook 12v.
Mechanic killed my battery and neglected to mention this to me, so locked out. I have a header port to the battery for a trickle charger, but it wont charge a battery that reads 8v, so pretty sure the battery is toast Tried to hook a battery to that but pretty sure I blew the inline fuse for the trickle charger cable then(which is under the hood). Best made plans still fail!
And before anyone says use the key, there is a manual override, I had my doors apart a few years ago to confirm if this was true, and neither door had mechanical linkage or anything broken and all points looked equally dirty and old. So either Porsche stopped doing this for 93 model year, or both doors had it purposely and cleanly removed.
After this I am wiring a discrete jump point to get 12v in to unlock the doors
You won't be able to reach the hood latch, the air box is in the way. Your best option is to try and pull on the cable housing, it runs along the frame on the left side above the a/c lines
You won't be able to reach the hood latch, the air box is in the way. Your best option is to try and pull on the cable housing, it runs along the frame on the left side above the a/c lines
Thanks, no this is an actual wire pull cable, I will see if I can get shots (Not sure if it is mentioned in the manual, but seems to be a little secret)
yes, I had to do a reach a round to grip the blind nut on the fog housing with pliers.
if your arm doesn't fit through the square access hole in the wheel well, you can just pull the fender liner loose in that corner. (my passenger side fog light mounting nut did the same....crazy glue worked)
yes, the cable is there....with the bumperette and turn lamp housing removed, you might be able to fish the cable out with a coat hanger.
yes, I had to do a reach a round to grip the blind nut on the fog housing with pliers.
if your arm doesn't fit through the square access hole in the wheel well, you can just pull the fender liner loose in that corner. (my passenger side fog light mounting nut did the same....crazy glue worked)
yes, the cable is there....with the bumperette and turn lamp housing removed, you might be able to fish the cable out with a coat hanger.
Thanks Thomas, this saved me a ton of time!
Did the old trick of pulling on the fog light while turning the bolt, and I had to pull pretty hard, but I got it out! The bolt was stripped in the middle, and that is why I hit that dead spot backing it out. Glad to know that problem, as I wondered how I was going to get the bumper off in the future
I looped it on the bumper-ette bolts for this picture, but was glad see the end floating back there in the cavernous smugglers hole.
Hidden 968 hood release cable.
Yep 7.5 amp fuse was blown after I tried to get a little power in there to pop the locks.
If this is a race car it might be prudent to get another piece of wire or something to hang out from the installed fog light so you can open the hood again easier later.
Did a little more investigation, looks like a square nut was put in place to allow the fog light to tighten down, but when I of course removed the bolt, the nut fell into the abyss.
What are the nuts supposed to look like, what is supposed to be back there (pictures appreciated) and am I better off tapping it and just using a screw to the metal (pretty thin) there?
I also, with some work, could just fabricate a bracket that bolts onto the bumperette mounts.
Thanks! Not sure why I didn't notice the slot on the left for the speed nut to enter
I don't have much in regards to places for finding parts, but I got a #8 speed nut, with a #8 screw and that seems to fit perfect, I couldn't find any speed nuts with nuts.
I like to spend the money and get stainless steel for this stuff, especially if the car is driven in the rain with it getting wet in front. Black painted steel will have to do.
And before anyone says use the key, there is a manual override, I had my doors apart a few years ago to confirm if this was true, and neither door had mechanical linkage or anything broken and all points looked equally dirty and old. So either Porsche stopped doing this for 93 model year, or both doors had it purposely and cleanly removed.
This piqued my interest so I went and tried it. I disconnected my battery and I assure you my late MY94 coupe can lock and unlock both doors with the key.
There is no blinky light of course but the lock posts go up and down. However the hatch release with the key is inop with the battery disconnected.
Anyone else wanna try? Another difference between model years perhaps?
Jon
This piqued my interest so I went and tried it. I disconnected my battery and I assure you my late MY94 coupe can lock and unlock both doors with the key.
There is no blinky light of course but the lock posts go up and down. However the hatch release with the key is inop with the battery disconnected.
Anyone else wanna try? Another difference between model years perhaps?
Jon
I would be curious to see if you have the hidden hood release on your car. Makes you wonder why that would be there, other than the chance of the cable snapping for the one in the cabin, it really serves no purpose I can think of, other than for if you lose power like I did Then again, never really checked if my other cars have them...
I would like to know which piece my car is missing, anyone know? 9?
10-02-2016, 11:47 AM
Hidden hood release cable
Tried to hook a battery to that but pretty sure I blew the inline fuse for the trickle charger cable then(which is under the hood). Best made plans still fail!
