Clutch Replacement
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OK, This is my first clutch replacement in my 94 and before I button it up I want to make sure that I have it right.![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
So At I tighten down the pressure plate, I notice that the plate is bowing towards the disengaged position. I've worked with the pressure plate three times now and it still ends up looking the same position. Is this normal or is there an alignment problem?
Additionally, after I hook everything up my clutch travels all the way to the floor and does not return. Does the booster correct this after the car is started?
Any answers will help with my piece of mind.
Max
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
So At I tighten down the pressure plate, I notice that the plate is bowing towards the disengaged position. I've worked with the pressure plate three times now and it still ends up looking the same position. Is this normal or is there an alignment problem?
Additionally, after I hook everything up my clutch travels all the way to the floor and does not return. Does the booster correct this after the car is started?
Any answers will help with my piece of mind.
Max
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Absolutely there is an alignment tool to make sure the disk is aligned in center while the pressure plate is torqued.
Also it helps cross-torquing the bolts to make sure the pressure plate sets evenly across.
Please make sure you lube the pin, bearings, slider with copper based paste.
Good luck
Also it helps cross-torquing the bolts to make sure the pressure plate sets evenly across.
Please make sure you lube the pin, bearings, slider with copper based paste.
Good luck
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Raj, thanks for the response the alignment tool was used each time I assembled the clutch (X3). I'd attach a photo but I'm getting a parsing error.
More to follow after X4.
More to follow after X4.
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Once the hydraulic assembly is tightened the rod is flush and snug. When I press the clutch it goes to the floor and stays.
I bled the clutch and mechanics are still the same.
Headed out on a business trip to San Fran, Seattle and Juneau. Will work on the car again this weekend.
Thanks for your assistance.
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Max - it sure sounds like you have hydraulic issues. 968 clutch hydraulics are not easy to bleed the "conventional" way (pump and hold method). Pressure bleeders or reverse bleeding is the only successful methods that I have found.
BTW, this won't solve the issue at hand, but things appear a little "dry" in your clutch assembly. I like to see some copper anti-seize on the release bearing guide and also under the fingers where the fork contacts the release bearing. These are all friction points. I also place some in the cavity of the fork where the slave cylinder rod contacts and just a light film on the splines where they enter the disc. The splines are just a personal preference of mine and really not necessary.
Here's where Raj and I part ways - I don't use the copper anti-seize to lubricate the fork pin bearings. Anti-seize is clearly anti-seize and bearing grease is bearing grease. The fork pin bearings come pre-lubed with bearing grease and not anti-seize, so that's what I add more of. Raj is a respected and authoritative voice on this forum and I'm not saying that he is wrong or that I am right. I'm simple saying what it is that I do when I install a 968 clutch.
BTW, I don't know what all the alignment tool talk is about. The splined shaft works just fine for me. I slide it forward to use as my alignment tool, tighten the PP then slide it back to install the fork and pin. 5 or 6 clutches done this way in last year or so.
Cliff
BTW, this won't solve the issue at hand, but things appear a little "dry" in your clutch assembly. I like to see some copper anti-seize on the release bearing guide and also under the fingers where the fork contacts the release bearing. These are all friction points. I also place some in the cavity of the fork where the slave cylinder rod contacts and just a light film on the splines where they enter the disc. The splines are just a personal preference of mine and really not necessary.
Here's where Raj and I part ways - I don't use the copper anti-seize to lubricate the fork pin bearings. Anti-seize is clearly anti-seize and bearing grease is bearing grease. The fork pin bearings come pre-lubed with bearing grease and not anti-seize, so that's what I add more of. Raj is a respected and authoritative voice on this forum and I'm not saying that he is wrong or that I am right. I'm simple saying what it is that I do when I install a 968 clutch.
BTW, I don't know what all the alignment tool talk is about. The splined shaft works just fine for me. I slide it forward to use as my alignment tool, tighten the PP then slide it back to install the fork and pin. 5 or 6 clutches done this way in last year or so.
Cliff
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As Cliff stated, check your hydraulics. This might require a second set of eyes but you need to be 100% certain that when you depress the clutch, the slave needle actually moves. I have a feeling this is not happening.
Good suggestion on using the spline slider as a tool for alignment. A 968 clutch allows you to do this, but you can't do this with most 944's due to their different design.
Good luck.
Good suggestion on using the spline slider as a tool for alignment. A 968 clutch allows you to do this, but you can't do this with most 944's due to their different design.
Good luck.
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Max - it sure sounds like you have hydraulic issues. 968 clutch hydraulics are not easy to bleed the "conventional" way (pump and hold method). Pressure bleeders or reverse bleeding is the only successful methods that I have found. BTW, this won't solve the issue at hand, but things appear a little "dry" in your clutch assembly. I like to see some copper anti-seize on the release bearing guide and also under the fingers where the fork contacts the release bearing. These are all friction points. I also place some in the cavity of the fork where the slave cylinder rod contacts and just a light film on the splines where they enter the disc. The splines are just a personal preference of mine and really not necessary. Here's where Raj and I part ways - I don't use the copper anti-seize to lubricate the fork pin bearings. Anti-seize is clearly anti-seize and bearing grease is bearing grease. The fork pin bearings come pre-lubed with bearing grease and not anti-seize, so that's what I add more of. Raj is a respected and authoritative voice on this forum and I'm not saying that he is wrong or that I am right. I'm simple saying what it is that I do when I install a 968 clutch. BTW, I don't know what all the alignment tool talk is about. The splined shaft works just fine for me. I slide it forward to use as my alignment tool, tighten the PP then slide it back to install the fork and pin. 5 or 6 clutches done this way in last year or so. Cliff
I'll check the clutch movement again after next install and report back.
Thanks again for the assistance.
/r
Max
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As Cliff stated, check your hydraulics. This might require a second set of eyes but you need to be 100% certain that when you depress the clutch, the slave needle actually moves. I have a feeling this is not happening. Good suggestion on using the spline slider as a tool for alignment. A 968 clutch allows you to do this, but you can't do this with most 944's due to their different design. Good luck.
Good points. I'll set up a camera system and record the clutch action! If I can figure it out I'll post the results after I complete the next R/R tomorrow. Cross your fingers...I know mine are.
/r
Max