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For my 1992 Porsche 968 Coupe, I’m documenting my upgrade of my original, factory CR-1 cassette unit to the Porsche PCCM Classic, including speaker upgrade and the addition of a powered subwoofer. The project was fairly straight forward, something you can do if you take your time. Hopefully this will help other late 944 or 968 owners.
Head Unit
Factory CR-1 Alpine cassette player. No CD Changer. Head unit works great, but speakers were shot. The unit came with a cassette of The Eagles Greatest Hits.
The CR-1 head unit has the original wiring harness for power, speaker pair connectors, and antenna. No spiices to the existing wires and harnesses. I was able to buy a compatible power harness and speaker connectors that plug and play, making everything 100% reversible.
For reference, my car’s speaker pairs (not labeled in English):
Right Front: Black & Black/Brown
Left Front: White & White/Brown
Right Rear: Red & Red/Brown
Left Rear: Yellow & Yellow/Brown
Power harness:
Power from ignition: green
12 volt constant power (for head unit memory when car is off): red
Ground: brown (2 wires tied together)
Power antenna: red/black
Front and Rear Speakers
Original 6-speaker system.
Door speakers: Pair of 1” tweeters and 5 1/4” component speakers - speaker wires from head unit to the factory woofer via a single quick-disconnect connector on the outside of the speaker mounting panel.
Tweeters are connected to factory woofer via in-line crossover.
Rear speakers:
4”x6” two-way speakers located under the rear windows. (No photo)
The new Porsche head unit comes with GPS antenna, microphone and USB interfaces. In my view, this is the most “factory” look, but it’s expensive. Note: this unit puts out 4x45 watts, which is pretty powerful. In my case, Crutchfield recommended not to use an external AMP and I’m glad I didn’t. This has more than enough power, especially when you add in the subwoofer. I opted for no maps or SiriusXM, though you can add those on.
(F) Power for Subwoofer: Crutchfield CK10 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK1...ield-CK10.html. Crutchfield provided this battery hookup for the subwoofer. I ran the power though an existing port in the firewall.
(G) Line-out connector for the Subwoofer: Blaupunkt 4 channel pre-amp out output lead preamp connection for amplifiers - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blaupunkt-4...s/225048867157. I didn’t want to tap into the speaker wires to feed the subwoofer. Fortunately, the PCCM head unit has both speaker and line-out connections. This connector (which is not included with the PCCM head unit) gives you access to the line-outs and contains two pairs of RCAs. I just needed to isolate the pair for the rear and use it for the subwoofer.
I was able to pop out the old tweeter and use the existing grill and connectors. I used hot glue to position the angle correctly and secure it to the grill mounting. I took time to reuse the existing connectors by swapping out the old subwoofers and inline crossovers.
Rear speakers: These fit perfectly into car without modifications or mounting templates. Some sites and videos show you needing to. Mine did not. I’ve also seen other articles about adding larger speakers in the back. I opted to keep the 4”x6 “sizes. Here’s a good YouTube video about how to install rear speakers.
Also check out the article below from Clark’s Garage.
I installed the GPS receiver right on top of the left-rear wheel well in the hatch area. You can barely see it. Some people install this on top of the dashboard, but I didn’t want it to be visible.
I installed the microphone right between the sun visors on the far edge of the headliner where it meets the windshield. It has self-adhesive and placed right, you can barely see it. Some people opt to mount this to the lower-right of the steering column.
USB ports. Many people put this in the storage box, right below the radio. Again, I didn’t want it to be visible. Instead, I placed it in the glove box. I also put the subwoofer’s volume control there too. Lastly, I added a wireless CarPlay unit into the USB port inside the glove box. When I get in the car, I don’t’ need to plug in my phone. It just works.
Subwoofer: I didn’t want anything too big. And for location, I didn’t want to install a subwoofer in the back hatch area, in the rear tire well, or under the passenger seat (not enough clearance). Instead, I bolted this to the existing plywood panel located under the carpet in the in the passenger footwell. To me, it’s a perfect location since it’s near the head unit, power cable from the firewall, etc. Once the unit is installed, I simply put the carpet and floor mat on top.
The verdict? It is amazing.Well worth it. And hopefully doesn't change too much of the original look of the car. All the old components are preserved too. Hope this helps and feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
Last edited by boston-997; 08-25-2023 at 06:44 PM.
Reason: Needed to fix images
I didn't use the microphone with my PCCM. I did have to manually switch it in the settings to use the built-in mic. I also tucked the media box up under the dash, behind the radio and ran a Nomad kevlar cable under the console since the only thing I'll be using is ApplePlay. Haven't quite decided on what I'm going to do with the speakers yet. Trying to get the 10-speaker system working again, but am looking at Dynaudio components as a possible replacement.
Does that JBL sub take speaker-level inputs or did you find a way to get line-level output from the PCCM?
Thanks for the reply. I didn’t know you needed to switch mics in the settings. I might have not used the external mic had I known. One thing is for sure, the manuals with the PCCM aren’t very detailed. The JBL takes both line level and speaker level input. I used the adapater listed above to get separate line-out and connect RCAs to the subwoofer. Seemed like a cleaner solution than splicing into the rear speaker wires.
Thanks for the reply. I didn’t know you needed to switch mics in the settings. I might have not used the external mic had I known. One thing is for sure, the manuals with the PCCM aren’t very detailed. The JBL takes both line level and speaker level input. I used the adapater listed above to get separate line-out and connect RCAs to the subwoofer. Seemed like a cleaner solution than splicing into the rear speaker wires.
My apologies! I completely missed that you used the adapter.
The external microphone may be a better option, but I was trying to minimize any add-ons. On mine, the external was the default option and it took me a while to figure out how to change it (it's under settings, but you can't have your phone plugged in at the time, otherwise you can't get to that option). Call someone while you're driving to see if the external microphone picks up too much road noise. You may have to fiddle with positioning a bit to find the best place. The internal mic seems to be working ok for me, it's rare that I get calls.
I put the GPS antenna under the hatch carpet where it can't be seen. I don't normally have anything back there and I use my phone for GPS. I didn't want it on the dash either.
I completely agree about the lack of documentation in the manuals. I wonder if the techs at dealerships have better documentation because it doesn't seem like they meant this for DIY.
I installed the GPS receiver right on top of the left-rear wheel well in the hatch area. You can barely see it. Some people install this on top of the dashboard, but I didn’t want it to be visible.
The stereo shop that installed my AM/FM/XM/CD in my Cab wanted to drill a hole in my windshield header and mount the antennae up there but I foresaw all sorts of problems with that namely, a hole in my windshield header and R&R-ing all the trim to run the wire up to it. I nixed that and had them put it on the dash just below the windshield. It’s about 2/3 the size of your GPS antennae, and pretty unobtrusive. The only issue is that I get occasional drop outs when I’m headed away from the satellite or in a deep canyon. (Which they warned me about and I’m totally fine with.) TBH, I rarely listen to anything but the engine and the wind in my hair when I’m driving it.
I need to take it someplace and get a BT adapter wired to the aux in. I had it installed in 2004 after I bought my car and consequently had a mini jack wired to my cubby to plug in my phone or iPod.
Curious how that sub sounds under the carpet and floor mat. It would solve the issue of not wanting to lift my carpet as its mint and REALLY glued in from the factory.
I'm a little curious about your rear speaker choice of staying with the smaller 4x6 size. Mine is still stock but it has 6.5" separates back there, all stock Nokia units. Curious why you didn't go for the larger size to get a bit more bass? Also curious about that powered sub mounted to the plywood kick panel. How much space is behind that plywood? Couldn't you have done a cutout and mounted the sub from behind so it's flush or nearly flush with the floorboard? It looks like that would allow the carpet to lay flat again and minimize folks feet damaging the sub enclosure grill.
Hi there. On the back speakers, I hadn't seen what's back there before I ordered the speakers, So I had to rely on what Crutchfield said fit the 944 S2 (they don't have 968 officially). Fortunately,what I found was a perfect fit for what they recommend. I should have taken a picture of it, but what was there was an opening for a larger speaker. I know others have put larger ones back there, but I didn't want to fuss with it.
On the powered subwoofer.... You're right. The plywood panel creates a few different options for this unit. There's probably about 1-2" of space behind the panel. Theoretically, I could have cut out a space, as you suggest, for the amp to recess into. Maybe I will do that later. I've also seen someone fabricate a mounting plate to sit below the glove box. That seemed like the cleanest solution. All of these to me are better than a visible unit in the hatch area. Good luck!
Hey Curt. Smart to tuck the media box under the head unit. You don't really ever need to get to it. Funny enough, I found this YouTube video where they talk about the newer version of this head unit.
Funny part in there about why the remote USB unit cord had to be shortened due to the number of wires going through it.
The JBL unit does take both line- and speaker-level inputs. See part (G) above which is the direct adapter you'd need to get line-out RCAs from the head unit. Good luck!
Hi there. On the back speakers, I hadn't seen what's back there before I ordered the speakers, So I had to rely on what Crutchfield said fit the 944 S2 (they don't have 968 officially). Fortunately,what I found was a perfect fit for what they recommend. I should have taken a picture of it, but what was there was an opening for a larger speaker. I know others have put larger ones back there, but I didn't want to fuss with it.
On the powered subwoofer.... You're right. The plywood panel creates a few different options for this unit. There's probably about 1-2" of space behind the panel. Theoretically, I could have cut out a space, as you suggest, for the amp to recess into. Maybe I will do that later. I've also seen someone fabricate a mounting plate to sit below the glove box. That seemed like the cleanest solution. All of these to me are better than a visible unit in the hatch area. Good luck!
But how does it sound under the carpet and a floor mat?
But how does it sound under the carpet and a floor mat?
Honestly, it sounds AMAZING. Even with the windows down and roof off. I thought I might be disappointed with the JBL being on the smaller side. I am impressed.
08-25-2023 | 06:10 PM
My PCCM Classic Radio Upgrade
