New to me 1994 968 coupe, 6 speed
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
New to me 1994 968 coupe, 6 speed
As soon as my check clears, I am the new owner of a car that I bought sight unseen, 1,000 miles away. I did have a PPI done. Car shows 83,128 miles.
Here is what they said:
- Compression and leak-down numbers look good. Engine is running strong
- Oil leaks from balance shaft seal, crank seal, valve covers, possible rear main
- seal/oil pan
- Hood micro-switch requires repair. Under hood light stays on
- Metal body panels all straight. Plastic lower valences warped -What does this mean? Can they be straighten with a heat gun? Is the part available?
- Wiper blades worn out
- Passenger side visor mirror is cracked
- Trunk carpet does not secure properly in corner
- Tires good (date 2007) 10/32” tread -May need to replace. Any suggestions?
- Radio displays “CODE”. Need to acquire code
- Muffler is dented -At some point, hopefully far in the future, I will replace this. Any suggestions on a SS one?
- Air conditioning not cold. Is converted to R134A
- Due for major service
- Motor mounts flat – require replacement
- 3rd gear syncro knicks into gear -Hopefully some new gear oil will help. Any recommendations?
- Driver’s door seal is loose
- Hood struts weak -Where can I get replacements? They say the rears are fine.
- Power steering reservoir hose leaking at pump
- License light bulbs / 3rd brake light bulb out
The things that need to be done before I would fell comfortable driving 1,000 miles, are darkened. Shop labor rate is around $160. What should all this run? Add, tire mounting, balancing, and 4 wheel alignment?
The things not highlighted are things that I will deal with later, some of which I hope to tackle myself!
Any thoughts and suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated,
Yogii
AKA-968 virgin
PS I will see the car next week and have a better eval then...
Here is what they said:
- Compression and leak-down numbers look good. Engine is running strong
- Oil leaks from balance shaft seal, crank seal, valve covers, possible rear main
- seal/oil pan
- Hood micro-switch requires repair. Under hood light stays on
- Metal body panels all straight. Plastic lower valences warped -What does this mean? Can they be straighten with a heat gun? Is the part available?
- Wiper blades worn out
- Passenger side visor mirror is cracked
- Trunk carpet does not secure properly in corner
- Tires good (date 2007) 10/32” tread -May need to replace. Any suggestions?
- Radio displays “CODE”. Need to acquire code
- Muffler is dented -At some point, hopefully far in the future, I will replace this. Any suggestions on a SS one?
- Air conditioning not cold. Is converted to R134A
- Due for major service
- Motor mounts flat – require replacement
- 3rd gear syncro knicks into gear -Hopefully some new gear oil will help. Any recommendations?
- Driver’s door seal is loose
- Hood struts weak -Where can I get replacements? They say the rears are fine.
- Power steering reservoir hose leaking at pump
- License light bulbs / 3rd brake light bulb out
The things that need to be done before I would fell comfortable driving 1,000 miles, are darkened. Shop labor rate is around $160. What should all this run? Add, tire mounting, balancing, and 4 wheel alignment?
The things not highlighted are things that I will deal with later, some of which I hope to tackle myself!
Any thoughts and suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated,
Yogii
AKA-968 virgin
PS I will see the car next week and have a better eval then...
#2
Rennlist Member
As soon as my check clears, I am the new owner of a car that I bought sight unseen, 1,000 miles away. I did have a PPI done. Car shows 83,128 miles.
Here is what they said:
- Compression and leak-down numbers look good. Engine is running strong
- Oil leaks from balance shaft seal, crank seal, valve covers, possible rear main
- seal/oil pan
- Hood micro-switch requires repair. Under hood light stays on
- Metal body panels all straight. Plastic lower valences warped -What does this mean? Can they be straighten with a heat gun? Is the part available?
- Wiper blades worn out
- Passenger side visor mirror is cracked
- Trunk carpet does not secure properly in corner
- Tires good (date 2007) 10/32” tread -May need to replace. Any suggestions?
- Radio displays “CODE”. Need to acquire code
- Muffler is dented -At some point, hopefully far in the future, I will replace this. Any suggestions on a SS one?
- Air conditioning not cold. Is converted to R134A
- Due for major service
- Motor mounts flat – require replacement
- 3rd gear syncro knicks into gear -Hopefully some new gear oil will help. Any recommendations?
- Driver’s door seal is loose
- Hood struts weak -Where can I get replacements? They say the rears are fine.
- Power steering reservoir hose leaking at pump
- License light bulbs / 3rd brake light bulb out
The things that need to be done before I would fell comfortable driving 1,000 miles, are darkened. Shop labor rate is around $160. What should all this run? Add, tire mounting, balancing, and 4 wheel alignment?
The things not highlighted are things that I will deal with later, some of which I hope to tackle myself!
Any thoughts and suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated,
Yogii
AKA-968 virgin
PS I will see the car next week and have a better eval then...
Here is what they said:
- Compression and leak-down numbers look good. Engine is running strong
- Oil leaks from balance shaft seal, crank seal, valve covers, possible rear main
- seal/oil pan
- Hood micro-switch requires repair. Under hood light stays on
- Metal body panels all straight. Plastic lower valences warped -What does this mean? Can they be straighten with a heat gun? Is the part available?
- Wiper blades worn out
- Passenger side visor mirror is cracked
- Trunk carpet does not secure properly in corner
- Tires good (date 2007) 10/32” tread -May need to replace. Any suggestions?
- Radio displays “CODE”. Need to acquire code
- Muffler is dented -At some point, hopefully far in the future, I will replace this. Any suggestions on a SS one?
- Air conditioning not cold. Is converted to R134A
- Due for major service
- Motor mounts flat – require replacement
- 3rd gear syncro knicks into gear -Hopefully some new gear oil will help. Any recommendations?
- Driver’s door seal is loose
- Hood struts weak -Where can I get replacements? They say the rears are fine.
- Power steering reservoir hose leaking at pump
- License light bulbs / 3rd brake light bulb out
The things that need to be done before I would fell comfortable driving 1,000 miles, are darkened. Shop labor rate is around $160. What should all this run? Add, tire mounting, balancing, and 4 wheel alignment?
The things not highlighted are things that I will deal with later, some of which I hope to tackle myself!
Any thoughts and suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated,
Yogii
AKA-968 virgin
PS I will see the car next week and have a better eval then...
I’m not sure if the “major service” they’re referring to means timing and balance shaft belts, but if needed (likely) add another $2K including the (while you’re in there) water pump.
The A/C should be R134 from the factory on this car. Unknown whether a recharge will suffice or whether you need hoses, fittings, compressor, etc.
The power steering reservoir hose may be corrected by tightening the hose clamp, but I’ve just elected to replace the reservoir and hose on my car for about $180 all in.
You might find the radio code written somewhere on the car or in the owners manual, etc. IIRC it will be a four or five digit number.
I just purchased new hood struts through Pelican Parts, but most online Porsche parts places should have them. They were something like $25/ea for the OEM items I chose.
Door seals, if a new one is needed, should be available through most parts houses too. I wouldn’t be surprised to see that part be $100-$200, though it might just need to be reglued.
You might search the forum for discussions about all of these issues. That’s how I’ve learned quite a bit about them.
Oh, and congratulations on the car!
#3
Congrats Yogi,
I'm glad you got this car! The first thing I would do here is replace all belts, rollers, tensioner, water pump and all seals on the front of the engine. The rear main seal I would replace when it's time for a new clutch. Shops can be expensive but replacing the belts etc is not much of a difficult job and there are lots of tutorials/videos online. Replacing the transaxle oil is quite easy too. Parts are for the most part easy to come by but always shop around. Some vendors that I use frequently are Pelican, FCP Euro, ECS Tuning and my local Porsche Dealer.
Depending on the model radio you have if it's a Becker you can get the code from the Renntech Forum.
Best,
Pete
I'm glad you got this car! The first thing I would do here is replace all belts, rollers, tensioner, water pump and all seals on the front of the engine. The rear main seal I would replace when it's time for a new clutch. Shops can be expensive but replacing the belts etc is not much of a difficult job and there are lots of tutorials/videos online. Replacing the transaxle oil is quite easy too. Parts are for the most part easy to come by but always shop around. Some vendors that I use frequently are Pelican, FCP Euro, ECS Tuning and my local Porsche Dealer.
Depending on the model radio you have if it's a Becker you can get the code from the Renntech Forum.
Best,
Pete
#5
Congrats Yogii. I got photos from the dealer of a bunch of service receipts. I did notice it had been a long while since belts were changed, but very few miles. You should definitely look through the receipts before you start spending $$ on things that may have already been addressed that perhaps the PPI guys are not aware of and are difficult or impossible to check.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the thoughts and ideas. It sounds like maintenance was performed pretty regularly for the first 65,000 miles. The miles since, not so much. So I am expected mainly deferred maintenance issues. For now thinking about just doing the front of the engine. Seals, belts, timing, camshaft, maybe water pump?. They say the clutch has lots of life left. Discs are scored but thick enough to turn, I hope? Pads 1/4 worn.
Complete hydraulics flushed. Any thoughs on SS brake hoses upgrade for a street car? Is the crank case seal hard to do?
Thanks again,
Yogii
AKA the 968 virgin
Complete hydraulics flushed. Any thoughs on SS brake hoses upgrade for a street car? Is the crank case seal hard to do?
Thanks again,
Yogii
AKA the 968 virgin
#7
Hi Yogii
I installed SS braided flex brake hoses and 5/33 brake bias valve last year, glad i did, definite improvement for relatively little $
Btw, i also have warped under-door cladding, where it curves up the rear wheel wells. It looks terrible but i dont know what to do about it. Haven't found any reports of heat gun success.
I installed SS braided flex brake hoses and 5/33 brake bias valve last year, glad i did, definite improvement for relatively little $
Btw, i also have warped under-door cladding, where it curves up the rear wheel wells. It looks terrible but i dont know what to do about it. Haven't found any reports of heat gun success.
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Everything on the list is typical 968 deferred maintenance. Shows a car which has been driven and not serviced regularly. Very common. The engine re-seal is a large job. But worth it. I would bet your fuel lines at the engine are also original. Plan to replace the fuel lines before a carbeque. Also get it up on a lift, and check the primary wiring to the starterand the solenoid pick line. There are plenty of stories of the pick line being shorted to the primary, causing the car to move on its own when the starter is engaged. You will need to slide back the wire insulation layer to inspect.
You will want to use this as the premier reference for working on it yourself; http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Or, you can write checks and let someone else do all the work.
You will want to use this as the premier reference for working on it yourself; http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Or, you can write checks and let someone else do all the work.