GSF Headers - Group buy - Prices in
04-24-2008, 01:05 AM
#47
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04-24-2008, 07:30 PM
#51
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Just came back from the workshop and testfitted the headers, the wastegate side heater pipe (the one closest to the driver seat) will touch the rubber of the left driveshaft (there where it comes out of the lsd) if not shortened by approximately 2-3cm. Will bring mine to a welder tomorrow to do the work on the driptank and the heaterpipe. Also the connection of the heaterpipe to the flexible heater hoses is smaller then stock, have to figure out how to solve this issue.
04-25-2008, 04:56 AM
#53
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FYI I spent 5 hours on my headers welding and fitting to make these work on my 965.. The ducting for heat is compleatly different on the 965 vs the 930. The diameter of inlet and outlet pipes are alot larger.
BTW, mine will be for sale, as soon as it stops snowing in the Pacific Northwest..
BTW, mine will be for sale, as soon as it stops snowing in the Pacific Northwest..
04-25-2008, 05:10 AM
#54
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Mark I also wish I would have bought a product that fits with no flaws at all, but in the end I think there will always be some modification work to be done no matter with what brand of header you go. Its a pain indeed.
I modified turbo 3.6´s earlier picture to make this more understandable.The red circle shows which part of the heater pipe is too long. Maybe I was just unlucky and got a header with excessive tolerance at this point. It needs to be cut and shortened by 2cm to have enough room between the pipe and the rubber of the left driveshaft. The blue circles show the connection of the heater pipes to the heaterhoses of the car. The connections are way too thin and I need to fiddle something out to make it fit. The other side of the heaterconnections (to the rear of the car) looks fine. Seems like some headache over the weekend. BTW I recommend to bend the stock oilline up. I fitted the flexible oilline. Making the connection from the oilline to the thermostat without removing the oiltank / dumping the oil is a PITA. The oiltank sits right above the thermostat connected to it with a short rubberhose. Barely enough space, the connecting piece of the oilline is huge and not flexible and needs to be forced in the correct position / angle to attach nicely to the thermostat connection (I also loosened the thermostat). I succeded but it took some time and bruised knuckles.
Hope this helps.
I modified turbo 3.6´s earlier picture to make this more understandable.The red circle shows which part of the heater pipe is too long. Maybe I was just unlucky and got a header with excessive tolerance at this point. It needs to be cut and shortened by 2cm to have enough room between the pipe and the rubber of the left driveshaft. The blue circles show the connection of the heater pipes to the heaterhoses of the car. The connections are way too thin and I need to fiddle something out to make it fit. The other side of the heaterconnections (to the rear of the car) looks fine. Seems like some headache over the weekend. BTW I recommend to bend the stock oilline up. I fitted the flexible oilline. Making the connection from the oilline to the thermostat without removing the oiltank / dumping the oil is a PITA. The oiltank sits right above the thermostat connected to it with a short rubberhose. Barely enough space, the connecting piece of the oilline is huge and not flexible and needs to be forced in the correct position / angle to attach nicely to the thermostat connection (I also loosened the thermostat). I succeded but it took some time and bruised knuckles.
Hope this helps.
04-25-2008, 05:12 AM
#55
Burning Brakes
For me the extra cheap price makes them worth it compared to the equivalent BB or 9M which are roughly 3x the purchase cost. A little bit of cutting/bending and a few hose reducers are worth it to me when I'm saving around £1000!
04-25-2008, 05:20 AM
#57
Burning Brakes
Would a couple of silicone hose reducers work at that point? Something like:
..it's not as if the heater pipes at that point are under a great deal of compression, the flexible hoses just fit over the pipework and have a hose clamp to stop them coming off. I think they would work as long as you don't go crazy tightening the clamps up.
Interesting comment about the oil line - how far would you say that the standard hard line would have to be bent?
..it's not as if the heater pipes at that point are under a great deal of compression, the flexible hoses just fit over the pipework and have a hose clamp to stop them coming off. I think they would work as long as you don't go crazy tightening the clamps up.
Interesting comment about the oil line - how far would you say that the standard hard line would have to be bent?
04-25-2008, 05:43 AM
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Would a couple of silicone hose reducers work at that point? Something like:
..it's not as if the heater pipes at that point are under a great deal of compression, the flexible hoses just fit over the pipework and have a hose clamp to stop them coming off. I think they would work as long as you don't go crazy tightening the clamps up.
Interesting comment about the oil line - how far would you say that the standard hard line would have to be bent?
..it's not as if the heater pipes at that point are under a great deal of compression, the flexible hoses just fit over the pipework and have a hose clamp to stop them coming off. I think they would work as long as you don't go crazy tightening the clamps up.
Interesting comment about the oil line - how far would you say that the standard hard line would have to be bent?
04-25-2008, 06:29 AM
#60
Burning Brakes
Going back through some older GSF-related threads I came across this one by Burman that I'd forgotten about.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=401193:
Might be useful.
The only problems mentioned are the turbo support and the hard oil line - seems as if the heater pipes went on ok; although you can't really tell how close the lhs pipework is to the halfshaft in the angle of the photo.
One question I do have is just to confirm the oil line we're talking about - in Burman's picture above, it's the line that comes up the left hand side of the engine, between the header and the crankcase, under the back of the engine and then bends to the right and dissapears up into the right hand wheelarch (via a flexi steel braided hose, in the above image).
Are all turbo's supposed to have this same pipe? Because mine looks *very* different:
The metal pipe on mine terminates in almost the exact centreline of the car, and it is attached to a heavy duty rubber oil line via a large brass fitting which then dissapears up into the wheelarch.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=401193:
Might be useful.
The only problems mentioned are the turbo support and the hard oil line - seems as if the heater pipes went on ok; although you can't really tell how close the lhs pipework is to the halfshaft in the angle of the photo.
One question I do have is just to confirm the oil line we're talking about - in Burman's picture above, it's the line that comes up the left hand side of the engine, between the header and the crankcase, under the back of the engine and then bends to the right and dissapears up into the right hand wheelarch (via a flexi steel braided hose, in the above image).
Are all turbo's supposed to have this same pipe? Because mine looks *very* different:
The metal pipe on mine terminates in almost the exact centreline of the car, and it is attached to a heavy duty rubber oil line via a large brass fitting which then dissapears up into the wheelarch.