911addict

Headers are low. My B&B's necessitating my rather low rear being raised by around 2cm. OK on the track, but was a real problem over speed bumps here in the UK.

PorschePhD

The GSF are even lower than that!

biglicks

the other bit to watch for is the height of the oil tank, these were done for the 930 so hang low on a 965 a cut and weld sorts this out by shortening the connection pipe. I only just found this out.

steve

Marc Shaw

I sent him an e-mail and I am waiting his reply.

Thanks.

turbo 3.6

Ok, here are pic's of all the bits that turned up on Saturday morning. They were packaged reasonably well, each seperate piece was in its own bubble wrap bag, with carboard packing etc.

They certainly appear to be of quite good quality and finish. The welds are nice looking. They have been polished after welding and sure look the part.

Just waiting on a Tial 46mm wgate and the long oil line to turn up (purchased seperately from IA) then it will all be getting fitted.

Certainly appears to be great value for the money! After reading many many threads about the issues with B&B and GHL headers cracking etc. It seems you can't really go wrong with these at this price, hell you could buy three sets of these and still put money in your pocket compared to the price of B & B's.

I guess time will tell.

biglicks

they do look the business don't they. Thanks for posting some feedback, I am waiting on my delivery this week, can't come quick enough!! (not a comment on GSF's speed, my impatience)

Steve

Megatron-UK

The way they come together at the *back* of the car has got to make a big difference compared to the stupid long connections that come from the front of the engine and then all the way back round to the turbo at the back as standard!

I'm making a list of the mods/extra bits for when mine arrive and so far I've got listed:

1. Flexible oil line to replace the hard line.
2. Cut neck of turbo drip tank to lift it up (anyone know how much?).
3. Turbo support bracket modifying to suit new mounting position.
4. Nut-splitter to remove nuts on exhaust studs.
5. New exhaust nuts for headers.
6. New washers and nuts+bolts for wastegate (standard).
7. New washers and nuts+bolts for turbo (standard).

Will the turbo and wastegate come off with the rest of the exhaust system if the oil lines and turbo inlet/outlet are hoses are disconnected?

Megatron-UK

To give you some idea of the state my exhaust system is in:





The rest of the main exhaust system is pretty much the same as these pictures show. I think I'll definitely need a nut splitter for the headers - not a chance in hell of those bad boys coming off cleanly.

You can imagine the state of the mounts for the wastegate and turbo, so if it's possible to remove the system with them still attached, then I've got to give it a try!

turbo 3.6

Yes, the stock setup is a shocker in comparison. I believe the aftermarket headers reduce the exhaust tract from port to turbo by about 26 inchs, as well as flow alot better i would imagine, not hard to see how the performance improvement is achieved is it!

Mate, that is in a heck of a state isnt it! Will be good to see that lot go in the bin ;-)

Yes it would be good if someone knows exactly how much to shorten the drain tube by, so i can get it shortened and re welded before the car go's into the shop to get it all fitted.

biglicks

my understanding is the drain tube should be shortened by 1 inch (25mm for decimalites!!) Cut on the angle of the 45° weld. I also understand you can gain a bit more height by putting the oil tank back on at a different position (imagine cutting at 12oclock and rewelding at 3oclock) this would lift the tank up a bit more.

Steve

biglicks

1. ditto for me
2. see my last post on this thread
3. can send you a photo of the mod stup did to make this work
4. try the heat and cool method they may move
5. order the studs with it just in case, based on turboholics feedback
6. already done mine in last few weeks although did fit an aftermarket wastegate
7. ditto for me
8. get better gaskets for the exhaust to engine connections GSF's aren't that good apparently.
9. are you taking your cat off, or leaving it attached to the turbo? in theory it should all drop offf in once piece (watch out it weighs a bit)

Cheers
Steve

Megatron-UK

I fitted a cat bypass a year or so ago - so the turbo hot-side studs should be reasonably ok to remove.
Where's the best place to source all the nuts and bolts and gaskets for the wastegate/turbo and the proper heat exchanger to cylinder head gaskets from? (a UK source would be great if anyone knows of one!)

A pic of the mod to the turbo support bracket would be really useful Steve.

biglicks

if you are keeping your existing cat bypass, you don't have to remove this from the turbo, after a year of use it may not be any easier to remove than it was before.
I'm talking to Stephen (imagineauto) for a kit for the whole job, as I will likely buy my oil line from him, so thought get the lot at US prices in one parcel.
You could try design911 they are usually stocked up, they had bits I wanted off the shelf.

Steve

ThunderC4S

I would be interested in details and pics of the mods involved to the turbo support bracket and heater hoses and anything else that's not a direct fit.

Rgds,

ThunderC4S

stu.p

Below is a few pictures of some of the mods required which i completed,also a picture showing what i advised Steve to do in cutting 1 inch(25mm) off the vertical pipe of the oil tank,i would also maybe cut 10mm + off the horizontal pipe of the tank to help clear your wastegate pipe(or bypass),i cut the pipe at the 90 degree bend and re-welded the same way.make sure clean that tank out as much as possible after you reweld..See pictures 1 and 2... N.B please note the heat reflective tape you see on my AFR sensor was only temporary and it has now a stainless braided covering!!



I did not shorten the horizontal pipe on my oil tank so although not touching in mine i had to clear the bypass pipe by shaping a little to suit


This is the way i found best to modify the support bracket,i isolated the top bolt hole from the equation as it was the furthest out in mine,also i slotted the botton two holes a little also!,this means i still have 2 bolts supporting turbo which is more than enough and i am still using the top bolt to do its job in going through the rear support bar to the engine!.


hope these help some of you!

Also, throw that clamping bracket away as far as possible if that is for clamping the 2 header halfs together,this joint has to be clamp free for expansion,if not you will crack your headers