tjr

My B&Bs fitted really well but as Mark says, they do require proper gaskets and a modified oil pipe which B&B supplied. They did need a mod to the heating pipe. There was also a ton of **** (mainly metal dust) that came out of them before they were fitted.

They are great quality and the sound and performance is impressive!

turboholic

Quick update, my stock headers are off, still need to take out the bolts they are pretty rusted, 2 of them already broke but there is luckily enough material left. Got my digicam stolen in London so I cant take any pics at the moment
The gaskets for the headers are out of stock at Porsche in Stuttgart, they said something about end of April
Anyone knows where I can order a set of good metal gaskets? The ones that came with the headers are not very good and the old ones are toast.
What is the best way to take out the old header bolts? I know this has been discussed many times before...
I will be in London again tomorrow so if anybody knows a parts supplier in the UK please let me know.
Somebody mentioned once that the large oil line that replaces the stock one can be fitted above the gearbox, any infos on that?

stu.p

I think nathan swears by using a nut splitter to remove nuts however i have not tried..
I have tried several times now with success the best way in my opinion to remove any rusted nuts is to have a water spray bottle handy and heat nut to cherry red then straight away cool with water asap,then repeat by heating again to cherry red then cool asap and on the third time when cherry red slacken the nut,if it wont slacken repeat once more!!..I have peformed this method loads and loads of times and without doing this they are sure to maybe break..
I just completed this on Biglicks(steve) turbo to sportcat pipe nuts and wastegate bypass pipe a couple of weeks ago which were that badly rusted they didnt even look like nuts!!, i am sure he will chip in on this one after he seen this method in action

P.s i just bought those steel gaskets from the opc in Glasgow(scotland) only last month and i am sure any uk dealer should have them!

biglicks

yep I can confirm the hot cool method was excellent. I had the pleasure of standing by like a worried expectant father as stu set about my car with oxycetaline (if that's how you spell it).

I had one broken stud before he started, but long anough to get the socket on. He used the special sockets, that Jerry posted a picture of to remove the nuts and the snapped stud aswell they worked well. I should have taken photos of the whole process but if you look back on Jerrys posts you should see his picture.

With this method the nuts and studs came out pretty quickly and cleanly of course.

Steve

turboholic

The nuts are already removed without snapping the bolts and the headers are off, but is this method you described (heat + water) also suitable for getting the bolts out? Or shall I stick to the heat, hammer and WD-40 method? My workshop got this special tool for the bolts today, surely they will give it a go tomorrow and on saturday. I just hope the bolts wont snap and we dont have to drill them out. Those bolts look like the factory ones that have been installed back in 1991
Does anybody know where the little oilline from the GSF driptank gets connected to? The stock turbo oildriptank seems to have 2 connections
I will try to find the gaskets at a London Porsche dealer, anybody knows where to ask? Maybe I am lucky and they have some gaskets in stock. The Porsche Werk in Zuffenhausen are out of stock, thats panictime for me

biglicks

how's your french? http://www.passionauto.com/pageCateg...dCategorie=113 this links to the gasket and bolt page for our exhaust systems, they have much more details in French than English so best to view in the former. They appear to have all you need, but if you want a bit of help with the language, send me your part numbers and quantities and I'll give them a call. I've dealt with them and the service was pretty quick.

Cheers
Steve

nathanUK '81 930 G50

The drain from the oil tank will go to the line that goes to the scavenge pump on the end of the LH camshaft.

Reiguy

Just installed the headers last night (Vertex auto/Schnell)...No complaints !! We don't hear that often LOL. These DO NOT have heat by the way.
Flanges were a perfect fit, Turbo mounted up easily...a bit of movement required but minimal. The wastegate required some minor relocation too but all-and-all...the entire job went well.

I will also say I have a full size lift and air tools...Doing this job on the ground w/o air would probably be pretty tough. I can imagine if I did not have air tools to remove the exhaust stud nuts, i probably would of snapped a few of them. Also, I will note to anyone about to attempt this job for the first time (Like me) Their are some special sockets needed, I used a set of very shallow swivel sockets that made this job MUCH easier to remove the exhaust stud nuts.
Other than the sockets mentioned, the rest of the tooling needed was pretty standard stuff.

It's raining here so no test ride yet but I had a chance to fire her up and check for leaks, sounds nice and throaty...Look forward to my first ride especially since I can check the Wide-band readings now too

turboholic

Hello Reiguy,

Happy to her you had no issues with the headbolts, did they all come out flawless? What gaskets did you use on your new headers?

Kevin

Reiguy, how thick were your flanges (Schnell)that bolt up to your heads?

The Schnell headers have alway looked like they had the thick OEM style flanges compared to the GSF and others.

Reiguy

As for the gaskets...I used the factory ring type and, in addition, I ordered the 930 metal gaskets from Pelican...used both. No issues w/ the headbolts at all...I really think gently tapping an air ratchet is why...when done manually, I believe you stress the studs more...Just did nice easy taps on the air ratchet, no heating of the bolts at all...Did squirt them down w/ WD 40 each night (2) before I actually did the job, maybe it helped some.

As for the Flanges Kevin, Sorry...their not the meaty like the stock flanges so probably more like the GSF's ( I actually think they are the same thing LOL)

Just had her out for a nice run...very nice addition !! Thank God for adjustable boost control, it pushed almost 1.5 bar for a split second there !!! Really had to turn it down to keep it around .9ish

AFR's on the WideBand seem pretty good...Between 11.4-11.7 on full boost from 3K to 6k (im not pushing it any harder till the engine gets rebuilt)...I actually think the car runs better w/ the O2 disconnected, so by by factory O2.
High 13's at idle so I am not going to mess with the CO according to those readings, from what I have learned...that should be OK.

Reiguy

...One more thing, Full Boost w/ the headers while going through a Under-Pass is just a wonderful sound

911addict

Reiguy, glad you're enjoying!
Do you have standard exhaust on these headers, or any bypasses?

Reiguy

I have a cat-bypass pipe too, stock muffler...I really want a Zork tube to ditch the muffler but I know it will sound obnoxious

911addict

Zork tube not for our cars. You mean a g-pipe? If your cat bypass is straight test-ipe then you're right will be too much.
Also, what AFR and boost gauges do you run?