My pipes arrived the other day and I was pleasantly surprised; I really like the swivel flanges on them, and the exterior welding is very nice. The interior joins where the two exhaust pipes come to mate with the turbo flange is not great though - I'll probably get the dremel and a polishing stone on there to take a very sharp, thin edge off. No more than 20 minutes work.

I'm still collecting parts for mine, and I won't be fitting them until my father and I finish one of our other projects; a Lotus/Caterham 7 replica that is currently taking up space on his second ramp - it has taken so long we're determined to either finish it this summer, or get rid of it.

 

Fitted a VDO boost gauge today to see where I´m at. It showed 0,95bar of boost in 2nd 3rd and 4th gear. Car pulls like a train and has a terrific sound on full boost. No boost controller installed yet and running a Tial 0,6bar spring. Is this normal with the headers and decat? Dont need to fit any boost controller I guess because didnt want to exceed 1 bar anyway.

 

Interesting. I am using a 0.8 bar spring in my Tial and see 0.94 bar on mine with full B&B exhaust and no cat.

 

0.7 tial spring in mine and i see 0.95-1 bar,sc cams ,heads and valves modified,obx headers,cat bypass,standard rear silencer (although they do free-flow)..standard turbo,sounds a little more than i would expect on yours...although it could well be!!..where you taking boost reading from,,mine is in between the inlet manifold to the ez69 box

 

I also run the stock silencer. I took the boost from the hose that goes from the inlet manifold to the EZ69 unit too because it also shows vacuum there. Maybe the spring has a little tolerance upwards. Will defenitely not fit the EBC because it is only possible to top up the boost and not to reduce it (would have to go with the weakest spring in the WG I guess). I will sell my brand new Blitz i-color Spec-R Boost Controller. I will have to check fueling asap to make sure the car doesnt lean out at 0,95bar, and avoid full boost sessions until I have checked the AFRs.

 

one more thing I want to point out to you guys is the difference in length of the joint pipe that goes inside the cylinder head right after the flange. You can see the difference of 3 mm on this pic. The stock pipe is 8,8mm, the GSF pipe is 11mm (may vary of course). This wouldnt be a problem if there wouldnt be a an edge inside the cylinders to exactly fit the 8,8mm stock piece. So if the GSFs are 3mm too long you will not be able to fit them properly without leaks. Make sure you check your joint pipes. I grinded mine down to 8,5mm.

 

here is a little in-car video my friend took today:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63N5FR3NZGo&feature=user