Boost gauge is an old school VDO mechanical, AFR gauge is from PLX devices...SM5 Kit w/ WBO2, DIgital Gauge and Brain...works just fine and couldn't beat the price for the kit, they seem to get very good reviews everywhere. It can send a "simulated" narrowband signal to our ECM however I didn't feel this was necessary as so many just leave them disconnected anyway...mine runs smoother in disconnected mode anyway.
As for the Zork...yes the G pipe is the correct 965 term, same difference but agreed would be too loud,

 

Good to hear you are impressed with the extra performance! I'm itching to get headers now....

 

Little update:

Did the Turbo support bracket mod yesterday, two straight cuts and thats it, no issues at all. Still waiting for some small bits from Porsche, did some extra work while in there and everything is good accessable. New spark plugs, 4 new oilpipes (mine looked similar to Megatrons in his picture), all 12 headbolts are mounted (3 came out, the other nine snapped and got drilled out, a nightmare), large flexible GSF oilline now goes from the left of the engine over the gearbox to the thermostat (not all the way around close to the headers like the stock unit).
Basically almost all the preparation work is done, it took quite a while because we had to wait for parts (got the stock header gaskets from France) and the workshop was full etc. In the meantime my Gemballas came back from the paintshop and I got myself a set of new Michelin Pilot Sport:

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Racelook "seidenmatt" finish.
Will replace the gasket of the left chaincover also, those tend to leak because of the heat from the turbo (the gasket on the right side of the engine is fine).
Need to find a good welder for shortening the connection to the GSF oil catch tank.
My Tach is with Dave across the pond getting his OLED gauge mod.
Bought a Blitz i-color boostcontroller also, I hope the car will be ready this coming weekend.

Cheers!

 

excellent work, those wheels look sweet. Like the matt finish and the centre caps are wicked, where did you get them, or did you have them done especially?

Steve

 

Thanks Steve,
Those are my old Gemballa 18" rims, I was tired of the silver look and wanted to have something new (needed new tyres anyway), decided to go "seidenmatt" and gave them to the paintshop. Another plus is that I dont have to clean them again
The center caps are original Porsche except the black paint, those are the metal caps which are no longer produced, I got them from ebay.

 

Joe,
Great wheels. I am thinking of doing my cups black, very mean.
Yours are even better with the deep dish!

 

Thanks Mark,
I like the look of the wheels in black now much more, but the Gemballas are quite heavy ! Didnt realize the difference in weight before I compared directly with a stock 17" rear wheel.
Will surely have to upgrade to some lighter rims in the near future.

 

Quick update:

Got the parts back from the welder yesterday, left heaterpipe shortened 2,5cm, fits just right now. The left side header is already installed and tight, the right side is on its place but need to make the holes in the adjustable swivel flange a bit bigger (flanges wont fit over the bolts but only right side, left side was flawless). Going to buy one or two 10mm cobalt drill heads because the steel on the flange is very hard. The welder also shortened the small pipe of the drip tank by 1cm (ground clearance!), it will fit just right and not too close to the turbo. I hope the car will be ready this weekend
Here is a photo of the car with the new wheels, sorry for poor quality, picture was taken with my mobile phone:

 

making great progress now Joe, thanks for the updates, I can get all of this done before I get started. Don't forget photos of the end result.

Steve

 

Yes now that the "major" issues got solved it goes much quicker. I will shoot some photos as soon as I can get hold of a digicam (mine got stolen lately), those mobile phone pics are very poor quality. I hope for all the chaps in the group buy that the reason for the longer heatpipe on the left side was a rough measuring of the builder, exceeding the tolerance level by a little. Maybe I was just unlucky. But make sure to cut off at least 1cm of the vertikal pipe that leads to the oil drip tank for more ground clearance. Be careful, cut off too much and the horizontal pipe and the tank itself will be too close to the turbo.

 

The info about the headers is much appreciated - hopefully it will enable the rest of us to fit them with a little less swearing :-)

 

I am glad to help and yes, we did swear. The biggest PITA of course was to drill out the headstuds that broke, followed by fitting the flexible oilline to the thermostat WITHOUT emptying the oiltank. Anyone who goes with the aftermarket flexible line make sure to empty the tank so you can loosen some more connections to the thermostat. This will give you much more space to work and at the end will be the easier and quicker route. I didnt dump the oil because we had no proper clean container to catch it up (the oil in my car is new, just came in 1000kms ago).

 

Not looking forward to having to remove/redrill head studs :-(
I think I'll be buying those nut splitters.....

 

Heat then cool,heat then cool then heat and slacken,,mentioned this before and completed loads of times and the result is no broken studs!

 

Got the right side headers also installed today and nicely tightened up with the stock metal gaskets


Here you can see the fresh weld of the left side heaterpipe and the clearance to the left driveshaft now after 2,5cm have been removed. Also note the oilline which goes over the gearbox/lsd:


I just need to connect 2 of the heaterpipes, install turbo + connections, wastegate and exhaust, then the job is done finally. Will try to make better pictures with a digicam instead of my cellphone.