A normal spark plug tool will do the job easely.............

 

Be sure you clean the spark plug holes with air before removing them completely!!

 

As you see, there is plenty room to work.

So, this is it for today, I'll try to continue asap.

Nice day,

 

Excellent thread Arjan!!

 

Highly informative and useful thread Arjan

Could you post a list of equipment needed to perform this task. I suspect that some shopping on my part will be required before undertaking any maintenance work and would appreciate any advice/assitance you could offer in this regard.

 

You need a normal filled toolbox, all metric tools.
No really special tools needed so far as I noticed
I will make a picture of evt. wierd tools if I need one.
The only thing that was a little different was the metric 24/26 mm I cut in two yesterday for replacing the oil pressure sender.

 

Tonight I started to adjust the valves.

First clean the spark plug holes with air before removing the spark plugs. First give them a 360 degr. so evt. coal can cleaned overthere.

Rotate the crankshaft by turning the fan pulley. If slip is there, please push on the v-belt, this will help to give some traction.

Now rotate the crankshaft till the first valve to adjust is out of tension. This will happen if the rocker arm is on the ground circle from the crankshaft. Now you can measure the play [needs to be 0,10 mm on all valves]
If play is ok, check the adjust nut if it's tight enough. If yes, please mark with paint marker. So you will never forget something.

 

If you need to adjust the valve, please untight the nut, and turn with a screw driver the bolt a little to te left. Tight the nut again, and check the play. If not o.k, repeat handeling again. Then tight the nut very well and mark it with a paint marker. Done....

Go to the next avalible valve

 

You can adjust ALL the valves from the lower engine area. No adjustment needed in the engine bay.

 

Please double check if you tighten all the adjustable nuts!! If you forget one, you will have damage to the engine.

PLEASE TAKE YOUR TIME TO ADJUST THE VALVES, WHY RUSH, BE PATIENCE!!!!!

 

Please clean the valve head covers very well with brake cleaner. Inside and outside before putting them back on the cilinder heads.
Please look if every gasket is fitted well in the cover, and clean also the cilinder head surfaces very well.

Next time more................

 

Today I picked up a "spy camera" for looking into the cilinders. This little camera makes it possible to check the valves and cilinder area.

I will try to make a picture thru the lens of the camera, I don't know if that's possible. We'll see........

 

What an article this is turning out to be, great stuff, thanks

Kevin.

 

Arjan

you forgot to mention that you need to rotate crank 120 degrees to do each set of valves - though I'm sure people would realise this!!!

Your picture of the feeler gauge in the valve train - where is this going??
Are you actually checking the clearance on the 'top' valve from below?

 

This is a great thread, and hugely informative. But I'm having difficulty picturimg what/where the varios bits are. (This is because I haven't been underneath my car to the same extent yet.)

Anyone got a simple drawing/picture which shows the head and the associated valvegear components. That way I could relate more to the photos.

Finally - are there specific torque settings for the various nuts & bolts?

Thanks