Rear Blower Delete Relay.
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 4
From: NYC
Rear Blower Delete Relay.
I've decided I will be doing the blower delete plate to go with my heatless headers. Once I do this, should I still do the relay for the blower? Is the best procedure still the splice into the purple wire in the fuse box like in this thread? Or is there a feedback relay I can purchase to just plug instead?
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-solution.html
I plan on getting my AC working for the coming summer, so I want my front blowers to work as usual, but don't see the need for the blower anymore with my new setup.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-solution.html
I plan on getting my AC working for the coming summer, so I want my front blowers to work as usual, but don't see the need for the blower anymore with my new setup.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: California
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,613
Likes: 52
From: DFW, TX
You don't need to do this. You're deleting the heat entirely, not just the rear blower.
The relay mod is for those who delete the rear blower for the RS piece but retain heat. The reason is because the CCU shuts down the HVAC at any temp **** setting other than max heat or max cold if it doesn't detect a rear blower.
Just leave your CCU at Max Cold and not having the rear blower shouldn't be a problem.
The relay mod is for those who delete the rear blower for the RS piece but retain heat. The reason is because the CCU shuts down the HVAC at any temp **** setting other than max heat or max cold if it doesn't detect a rear blower.
Just leave your CCU at Max Cold and not having the rear blower shouldn't be a problem.
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Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 4
From: NYC
If you don't have the bypass pipe, I'd fix the relay just to have the blower function in case of some crazy overheat in which the blower will kick on and dump heat into the footwells at a greater rate. Personally I've never heard the blower turn on high speed on its own so I don't know to what degree this cooling function works. The only time I heard the blower on high speed is when the old thermoswitch broke and the blower was always on high.
You don't need to do this. You're deleting the heat entirely, not just the rear blower.
The relay mod is for those who delete the rear blower for the RS piece but retain heat. The reason is because the CCU shuts down the HVAC at any temp **** setting other than max heat or max cold if it doesn't detect a rear blower.
Just leave your CCU at Max Cold and not having the rear blower shouldn't be a problem.
The relay mod is for those who delete the rear blower for the RS piece but retain heat. The reason is because the CCU shuts down the HVAC at any temp **** setting other than max heat or max cold if it doesn't detect a rear blower.
Just leave your CCU at Max Cold and not having the rear blower shouldn't be a problem.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: NC
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 4
From: NYC
Vandit, do you think it matters if I pull the blower relay or not? Or would there be some kind of draw if I removed it but left it plugged in?
Looked up the prices for the blower delete plate, and its almost hilarious. 90$ for almost nothing. Sent the pic to a local machining/CNC place to see what they say, but if too much I'l just make my own out of some abs plastic.
Looked up the prices for the blower delete plate, and its almost hilarious. 90$ for almost nothing. Sent the pic to a local machining/CNC place to see what they say, but if too much I'l just make my own out of some abs plastic.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,613
Likes: 52
From: DFW, TX
lol.
I deleted my blower recently. I used the duct on the blower to trace a pattern onto cardboard and had my dad cut it out of a piece of aluminum stock. I didn't Swisscheese it like the Rennline piece, I just drilled a couple of holes for fitting for the distributor vent and taillight vent tubes. For the plug on the engine tin, I used a $4 4" flexible rubber pipe cap from Home Depot. It's outer diameter fits the inner diameter of the hole in the engine tin.
I did not remove any relays, just disconnected the blower and tucked the wiring over by the coils. I didn't notice any kind of drain, but then again, I typically disconnect my battery if i'm leaving the car parked for more than a couple of days.
I deleted my blower recently. I used the duct on the blower to trace a pattern onto cardboard and had my dad cut it out of a piece of aluminum stock. I didn't Swisscheese it like the Rennline piece, I just drilled a couple of holes for fitting for the distributor vent and taillight vent tubes. For the plug on the engine tin, I used a $4 4" flexible rubber pipe cap from Home Depot. It's outer diameter fits the inner diameter of the hole in the engine tin.
I did not remove any relays, just disconnected the blower and tucked the wiring over by the coils. I didn't notice any kind of drain, but then again, I typically disconnect my battery if i'm leaving the car parked for more than a couple of days.
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 4
From: NYC
I had bought the same rubber cap, I think I might use it on the flapper valve boxes as well. On the swisscheese of the rennline piece, I don't think they do this just for looks. Supposedly Porsche did the same thing. So when you turn off your car there is an extra outlet from heat to dissipate. Even if you look on the C4 Lightweight, the fan shroud is different, but its not enclosed completely, it had a much larger outlet with netting. I was on debate whether to perforate it as well, but now I think I might let a few holes in. Would it be bad if water were to make its way in there though?