anto1150

Hi all,

I was a little tired to see that single red cable hanging around my engine bay... Just didn't look right...!
So i spent some time looking for a better way of getting a switched lead...and i found it!




Remove the green relay; now remove the relay support (2 8mm bolts). Underneath the green relay there's a violet (maybe green/yellow on early cars) wire: that's it! With the help of a tap-in squeeze connector, connect a wire to that violet one (I chose yellow because it usually stands for "switched +").
Now terminate the new wire with an appropriate spade, put everything back togather and you're done! Simple, effective and clear.

Ciao

crg53

Good one. Did you put a fuse in between.

anto1150

I disn't, beause i'm pretty sure that violet line is already protected....but you can add a small fuse if you feel safer...
The violet wire is 0,5, so it's ment to carry a very little amount of current (means safe to me...)

racemor

Hey Anto, what gauge wire did you use?

anto1150

Racemor, that wire won't carry any significant amount of current, so no need to use a particular size. Just something strong enough

ThomasC2

I tried this earlier today but my fans shut down. I put my old set up back (cross connect + and ground) and then they worked again.

Possibly that the connector hasn't cut through the purple wire but I think so. My yellow wire looks like the same size as yours.

anto1150

Thomas, could be... connectors aren't 100% reliable. I'd check with a multimeter, before reassebling.

ThomasC2

Yeah, that struck me to. What should the mulitmeter read with ignition on?

Thomas

anto1150

12 V; 0 when ignition is off.

Ciao

ToreB

Good job. The violet wire is Terminal X, it's fused, and this modification will only introduce a very small current draw, if any. It connects to the Climate Control Unit rear fan feedback signal input.
Cheers,
Tore

ThomasC2

OK, I had 0V with ignition on (all warning lights on, not the engine running). So I have to check the connector again.

Thanks,

Thomas

DobermanDad

So this is working for you guys?

I haven't done anything to mine yet after the RS bypass duct was added and my heater works fine. I feel like I should even mess.

I was gonna do the wire mod from the coil, until I saw this, but it seems like I don't even need to do either.

ThomasC2

Now it works! The blade in the connector had pushed the wire outwards instead of through it. 12V it is!

Better than my old cross jumper fix? i don't know, but probably.

Thomas

anto1150

Tore,
thanks for the feedback

Bertrand

I just checked the schematics: On models 1989 and 1989 only that wire should be Green/Yellow. It's violet on all models 1990-1993.