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Looks great. Must have been fun installing the headliner with the roll bar in place.
If all goes according to plan, I am plumbing and finishing the wiring on my electric power steering pump today. I decided to go with a circuit breaker vs fuse for the pump. It supposedly draws up to 60 Amps at full load. Are you using hard lines? I went flexible with aeroquip SS braided lines and a 2500 psi burst rate. I am not running a spare in the track car so working on fashioning it to the tub with some additional brackets. I am considering running a switch to the dash to turn it on without the car running making it easier to push the car around. Everything will now be controlled by the Haltech.
Looks great. Must have been fun installing the headliner with the roll bar in place.
If all goes according to plan, I am plumbing and finishing the wiring on my electric power steering pump today. I decided to go with a circuit breaker vs fuse for the pump. It supposedly draws up to 60 Amps at full load. Are you using hard lines? I went flexible with aeroquip SS braided lines and a 2500 psi burst rate. I am not running a spare in the track car so working on fashioning it to the tub with some additional brackets. I am considering running a switch to the dash to turn it on without the car running making it easier to push the car around. Everything will now be controlled by the Haltech.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
The headliner was an SOB. I bought a pre-cut one w/o sunroof. Would not work due to the way the bar was about 1/2" too high it pulled it too tight and the back by bottom of rear window was too short. So interior guy custom made it. it looks really nice, but was not simple. The rest of the interior is using he app biz lightweight felt kit + about a yard of extra material. Had to be custom fit around the roll bars. overall interior looks good, has an "RS" type look to it :-)
Oh we have another issue... we did. 3D model of the interior, which allowed us to use the factory Bow locations. But, one thing got missed... the lower part of the bar clears the OEM seat belt bolt, but, the scan was not done with the below mechanism located. SO, it won't fit, the main hoop bar is in the way. Fix: fabricating out of see a bracket that will bolt to factory location + clamp to roll bar and allow use of the factory 3pt setup. And be stronger than OEM. ON the street, I want 3pt for the street, I only use 6pt with a HANS device /helmet on. 3pt allows body flex, 6pt does NOT and you want your neck tied in!
On the PS Pump, not sure yet on wiring, if using 40 or 60a fuse. The shop installs these often and will do whatever they do. I know one thing is running a wire from the alternator to the pump so the pump knows when the engine is running.
On the plumbing, will use XRP connections from pump to tub, then tub to rack. The lines will be flexible cloth covered rubber. Shop has tooling to do XRP stuff. It should look clean and factory when done. If you've seen a 997 cup similar to that sort of setup.
My pump will be mounted on the floor also, I do not run a spare in this car.
I plan to resurrect my build thread once more progress is made. I have seen others suggest adding an additional reservoir as shown above. Not sure it is needed. Although the klutz that I am I broke the tab off the cap of my unit so it needs to be replaced. Unfortunately I can't find anything remotely similar. I hope to have a solution soon. The main #6 red power line goes to the battery & #6 brown to ground. Everything I read says to use an 80 amp fuse, used this buss style breaker. mounted it upside down next to the battery so the power lead is the shortest distance and used heavy duty heat shrink tubing to protect it from potential abrasion. Still need to figure a way to isolate the connector so no chance of accidental shorting out but it will blow the breaker if anything happens.
I mounted mine off to the side in case I decide to add a cool suit in the future.
Didn't get as far as i was hoping yesterday. Still have plumbing to finish up but so far it looks like this. As far as the remaining wires brown is ground one is to ignition and the blue white to terminal 61 (a generic term for the line to the alternator) I actually can work with the Haltech to control everything.
Today this should be finished and looking neat and clean.
As far as the Haltech. When I sourced the engine it was full setup but designed to run way rich using a modified motronic box on 100 octane fuel. Ludicrously expensive to run with dual driver. Two days on track with two drivers was averaging over $700 on fuel alone so I decided to tune it properly. I went with the Haltech Elite 2500 due to price and flexibility. The motec is nice but too pricey and far more unit than I needed. I am converting the ABS module to the factory C2 vs the C4 that was in there. I don't need what the C4 unit offers and at $2100 used the C2 at $250 is perfect for my needs for now and will allow me to run my speedo which was previously inoperable.
Amazing what you can do with these. We are running max resolution to obtain the best performance through the rpm range. A boost controller incase i want to up the power, the rev limiter will not be as abrupt and turning on the key will zero the gages bringing tach needle to redline and back to zero. I can control how much of an ignition cut I want as well. Fans will be controlled and can be raised or lowered based on temp along with many other features like having the check engine light flash if an knocking is detetced. I will get more in depth once I have a chance on my thread.
If all goes well car will be on the dyno for a tune today or tomorrow. My only regret was making this a full blown track car vs dual purpose. With the Haltech it will be far more streetable than before. I do agree no harnesses or IMO full cages on the street. A proper 3 point for street driving is best. Good luck with fixing the issue, although not many problems considering, you know how these things can shift directions quickly.
Just rough wired for now once tuned it will be mounted properly.