When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well done , Thanks for taking all the pictures,
It seams that everyone is having an issue with the right drive shaft, maybe the quickest way is to remove the starter from the start
Well done , Thanks for taking all the pictures,
It seams that everyone is having an issue with the right drive shaft, maybe the quickest way is to remove the starter from the start
It’s easy to get to when the engine is lowered. Not so much when it’s fully up. It’s not really an issue. I will remember this on the install. I have a refurbed starter to install.
As I’m doing this by myself I have to think smart. Using an engine crane and a leveller bar allows me to keep the engine and transmission level while I take out the fork shaft and bolts then separate the two.
This is a Light Weight flywheel RS Clutch. The unique parts are the Guide Tube, Release Bearing, Clutch plate and flywheel. The parts fitted to my car look correct. Clutch plate is not too bad. The flywheel shows heat marks. I think it’s past its best.
So how many hours for a pro like yourself to get to this point? Thanks again- giving me bad ideas....
Pete
I’m no pro, just an an enthusiastic amateur. I saw a quote for a clutch replacement on a 993 C2 with 18 hours labour. They had most of that attributed to getting the engine in and out. I’m maybe half as slow again as I can’t stand under my lift and I do it by myself. There are definitely some jobs it would help to have extra hands.
Well, I’m stumped with my heavy clutch issue. The parts are correct, nothing is obviously completely worn and the pressure plate shows no sign of overheating (heat would temper the spring fingers and make them harder). With the amount of work a misjudged fix would entail if I had to pull the engine again I think the smart choice is to go all new and back to a DMF.
Update: I have ordered the entire assembly from Flexi hose through to DMF, only keeping the existing fork and its shaft. A couple of people have suggested I check the lines for restrictions. There are no flat spots in the hard line bends and the Flexi line is KTS SAE hose made in 3/12. It could have deteriorated in the last 8 years so I’m replacing it with Porsche Original (at great cost). I should be installing this all within the next 2 weeks. Fingers crossed I have a smooth light clutch after this
Most of my parts have arrived. Clutch and pressure plate specific to the pre 1992 models except the ‘89 model with the rubber centre disc Weigh is 5.4kg
New clutch fork. The original is better quality and the shaft bushing is fine but I have no idea how worn the prongs/tines are. New prongs are longer and more rounded
Clean out the transmission side, use an offset spanner and mallet to push the fork shaft bearing out, remove the guide tube screws (impact screwdriver as they are thread locked), persuade the guide tube to release from the flange with a few side taps from a plastic mallet. Check the transmission bearing (all good as replaced when the transmission was overhauled). Clean up splines. I have to wait for the new guide tube now.
Now to the engine side. Undo pressure plate bolts and slide the pressure plate and clutch plate off. Slide the ring gear off. Find a suitable spanner, thread a pressure plate screw though the circle end. Place the other end on a stud. Take a 12mm xyz tool and loosen each flywheel bolt off slightly. Then go around and loosen each one two turns. You will feel the bolts suddenly loosen. They are one time use so throw away.
Weighing the LWF and ring gear gives 5.8kg. The DMF is 13.4kg so I have added 7.6kg of weight to the car. I will also lose some engine response. On the flip side my idle and NVH should improve.
02-19-2021, 03:34 PM
