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Excellent work and again- thank you for the excellent documentation. Its threads like this that make this forum for me. Still planing to get over there and fill you up with a beer or 2 some day. Until then- Cheers from Japan!
Looking forward to hearing about the results. Surely your left leg will be relieved.
Another C4 specific hurdle. I torqued the engine mounts and transmission bolts then went to slide the spline tube back over the gearbox spline and it was a no go. The gearbox spline was slightly lower than the front spline.
A bit of thinking and a check with Spokes confirmed the solution. Untorque everything and use the engine height to control the gearbox spline position (engine down makes the spline pivot up on the transmission carriers).
Well done and thanks for all the details. I must admit it comes spot on as I am preparing to drop my C4 engine
I like your cisor lift, it looks like it makes the work easier, I guess you have to rise a low car to be able to slide it under.
Well done and thanks for all the details. I must admit it comes spot on as I am preparing to drop my C4 engine
I like your cisor lift, it looks like it makes the work easier, I guess you have to rise a low car to be able to slide it under.
My first drop was done with Esco stands and the AC Jack so it is possible. However I far prefer the scissor lift. It needs to have ramps or be recessed in the ground to work on our cars though.
1. I connected the battery and the Durametric to bleed the actuators. I turned the ignition key to on and a liquid gushed out the back. I hadn’t taken out the DME or reconnected the fuel filter so I was pumping fuel over the garage floor.
2. The Durametric took an age to connect and then only gave me a transverse actuator bleed option which did nothing. I checked the fault log and got an error 32. Work for another day. BTW it did bleed with a motive. Go figure.
3. I connected the fuel filter, PS pump and air con, then filled the oil, which burped out and down the tray on to the secondary exhaust.
4. I bled the clutch and the action using a hand is beautiful. I stopped there for the day.
So close now. I took off the secondary muffler and heat shield and thoroughly cleaned the spilt oil and PS fluid off them. Then it was wheels, pedal board etc. I’m waiting on some valve cover washers then I will fit the rear heater fan and air box. Otherwise it’s ready to go. Sitting in the car and pushing the clutch pedal is light years away from the stiff graunching RS clutch. I don’t think it was the RS bit, I suspect it was a failed pressure plate.
Valve cover washers were sourced via Rennlist member, Spokes, so I was able to complete the reinstall of the rear heater fan and airbox.
I installed a new filter and was surprised to see it was more than four years since I last did that. Many road trips on back roads had made it a bit dirty.
With that done, I sat in the car, turned the key and heard a screeching noise as it fired. I realised it was the PS pump refilling and the noise went away. I pushed in the clutch, selected reverse and moved back two metres. I then selected first and moved back to the starting point. WOW. It is night and day. The action is so light and progressive it’s like a new car. Why I persisted so long with a rock hard clutch and rough take up point is beyond me.
The next step is to run around the neighbourhood and check for action and leaks.
1. I connected the battery and the Durametric to bleed the actuators. I turned the ignition key to on and a liquid gushed out the back. I hadn’t taken out the DME or reconnected the fuel filter so I was pumping fuel over the garage floor.
2. The Durametric took an age to connect and then only gave me a transverse actuator bleed option which did nothing. I checked the fault log and got an error 32. Work for another day. BTW it did bleed with a motive. Go figure.
3. I connected the fuel filter, PS pump and air con, then filled the oil, which burped out and down the tray on to the secondary exhaust.
4. I bled the clutch and the action using a hand is beautiful. I stopped there for the day.
Hi John,
May I ask are you running the oem chip or an aftermarket chip like Steve Wong chip? The reason I inquire is that I have a Steve Wong chip for my LWF/ Clutch/bypasses/ etc. Currently, I am using the ScanTool software and T-OBD plug by Bergville. It too is having the same issues of connecting. I''m wondering if having something other than oem causes the lengthy connection time. I would like to purchase a diagnostic tool that is able to do the ABS/PDAS bleed but worried about not being able to connect.
03-21-2021, 06:22 AM
