When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Much to my annoyance, it appears that the refurb on the RUF Bilsteins was wasted money in that one of the rears has been done twice and continues to leak enough to fail the MOT. The shop will no doubt have another go at repairing it but it’s me doing the removal, install and alignment check. Time to go new.
While I realise technology has moved on, knowing that I can never get the car to handle like my 987.2 Spyder I’ve gone classic Bilstein B6. I’ve also bitten the bullet and ordered new bolts and lock nuts. I figure that years of alignments etc has given the existing ones enough stretch and fresh bolts will preserve alignments better as they will torque up nicely.
I’m going to have some fun this time and motivate myself by timing it. With a lift, all of the tools and prior experience I reckon it’s easily a weekend job by myself. Maybe even just a day.
I’m very happy with the B6’s, they are compliant but also keep the car firmly planted down the road. I think you’ll find them to be a very good match for the 964.
I’m very happy with the B6’s, they are compliant but also keep the car firmly planted down the road. I think you’ll find them to be a very good match for the 964.
Afshin, this will be my third install so I know they work on local roads, and a great price nowadays. I have decided to do next years track tour in the C4 so it has to be right, particularly as I will drive on road legal track tyres that stick like the proverbial to a blanket.
Undo wheel nuts a turn each, lift the car, break torque on the big rear bottom bolts and remove the rear wheels. Then it’s take out the parts in front of each shock tower. Three nuts on each tower. It pays to have a variety of 13mm spanners and sockets to tackle each ‘unique challenge’.
Checking the shock differences out. The RUF Bilstein is an all over more robust shock and has a locking collar for the rears which the B6 don’t. However one of the rears is leaking after two repairs and I’m over it. Another rennlister, Spokes, helped with his pic of the collar position. 11 threads it is.
I tried everything I could think of to install the rear shocks by myself but I couldn’t work out a way to get them held up in the tower while I got out from under the car and got a nut on them to hold them up. In the end I had to ask my wife and son to help.
Anyway, bottom nuts torqued to 147 ft lb with a big torque wrench and marked for movement with paint pen.
Now letting the suspension settle before I do the front shocks.
Took the car for a run around the block and there is clear knocking at any hint of a bump. Checked all but the central bolt on the strut and all right. Also checked the sway bar mounts. It looks like I have to retighten the centre bolt. I don’t recall this issue on the last install. I’ll search for photos of the thread visible on my last install
Mystery solved but not the problem. I have a 1990 model car. It was apparently modified with later top hats and spacers when RUF bilsteins were fitted.
The question in my mind now is whether I should buy new rear 1990 top hats or later model shocks? I suspect the top hat is the smarter option as I haven’t heard of people converting older cars to later top hats and shocks. Has anyone done this?
11-30-2019, 04:17 PM
