Goughary

Thanks...yeah it's been tough here and there. But really worst case is that most of these parts can be had cheep if we look for used parts. So if we screw something up, it's never going to cost much or set the project back too far. John's control arms were a perfect example. New (used) control arms were 150 each...

I mikes case, we bought Goodridge soft lines. We will get a brake line Bender and make new hard lines, and done. First time we use the tool, it pays for itself over buying one oem part.

I'm heading to Houston next week for the holiday. So my goal next few days is to get all the hardware clean and ready to be sent to the yellow zinc plater by Tuesday.

Goughary

Before and after on the oil cooler ...

Goughary

We bought elephant trailing arm bushings for this job. Which means the trailing arms have to come out. Which means the ebrake cable needs to come out.

Can anyone tell me how to get the ebrake cable and housing out of the back of the trailing arm?

Goughary

Figured out how to get the cable out of the trailing arm...will do this tomorrow.

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ub-solved.html

Goughary

Finished most of the disassembly today. Another car that clearly hasn't been aligned in many years. I'll just throw this out there for all reading. It's a really good idea to take this stuff apart once in a while. All the spring plate bolts were seized, again. John's car was the same. These bolts can be taken out one by one and have antisieze slathered on them and put back in without needing alignment. Just do them and retorque one at a time and you won't change the settings. What a drag when they seize. Further, I'm convinced that no shop would do any of this work if they didn't absolutely have to. So thank god we are doing it ourselves...cuz 90% of what we are doing would get done.

Just for some guidance, should your spring plate bolts be seized. Start by soaking everything for as long as you can with pb blaster. Then remove the nuts on the rear of the bolts, then using the biggest breaker you can fit, try to crack the bolt loose. Keep cracking it until your impact gun can move it, and then spin it free.

For the hex bolts...use a good impact 10mm socket, like a Blackhawk......use a pick to clean out the Allen head, and then hammer the impact socket into the head. So it's fully seated. I use a plastic hammer. And then the impact gun should be able to spin that and break it loose.

As for the inner 12mm hex bolts...I wish i had a ratcheting box end one inch size long wrench to use on the tool I bought at pelican.
Anyway, to break those loose, it's a snapon 1 inch box end torque extension and a half inch Breaker bar. And a lot of force. Again, use a pick to clean out the corrosion and grime in the Allen, and then hammer the tool into the Allen head. Needs to be well seated to handle the force necessary to break it loose.

Goughary

Pulled the rear hubs...

Goughary

Removed the tie rods. Found out he has the smaller steering stops . Need to swap those for the 10mm steering stops so he can stop rubbing the inner fenders...

Goughary

And this is where we are.

Yellow zinc plating may be too much money, so if anyone has a reasonable source to have that done, please let me know. But I can't see paying almost a thousand dollars to zinc plate parts that are eventually going to rust again...

jpar

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...nc-plater.html

Goughary

That was the thread I was trying to find. Thanks man. We are going to call them this week.

Can you pm me approximately what that all cost you to do? Just to have an idea before proceeding....

Goughary

Finally got the ebrake cable out of the trailing arm....thank god I found that thread. Both cars so far are so full of corroded alluminum and steel that not having done some things, it impossible to guess how they go together, and therefore how they come apart. And as much as I hate taking a pair of vise grips to a nut or fitting and forcing it, that was the only way in this case.

So the ebrake cable is in there held only with an o-ring. So once the cable is disconnected from the moving parts under the rotor- shoes etc...you just grab it and it should wiggle out. In my case, soaking in pb blaster, and then using huge force on a pair of vise grips clamped on there as hard as I could, and then just wiggle an eighth of an inch in either direction, add more pb blaster inside the hole and outside, keep wiggling and eventually it loosened up and out it came.

Yes, hear would be my friend...but with all the oil and crap around, and it's a wooden garage...I'm just not a fan of live flames in the garage at the moment. So no torches...

Goughary

Now. I need a DIY on how to remove the oem trailing arm bushing.

Elephant Bushing will be a fun install.

Goughary

Further...we have all of the rusty bits in a bucket of Apple cider vinegar at the moment de-rusting. If you haven't done this, give it a try. It's pretty much set and forget. Light rust is overnight and heavy rust can be days and weeks. But it works.

On the car, we decided to de-rust some things without disassembly so as to not open a can of worms. Like for example the oil hose fittings under the passenger side skirt...this is a before, during and then after shot. The after is a mid-point, to illustrate how well this works. When done, literally all the rust will have disappeared. But you see where the cider vinegar has taken away a good portion already in just a day or two.

Spyerx

Kill it with fire. Or a perfectly sized piece of billet on a shop press

Goughary

Found this...

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...-bushings.html