Teardown begins. Suspension madness...
#181
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Westchester County, NY
Posts: 195
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Lee,
Figure the damage to the jackpoints happened at the body shop that did the rear end repair. Really frustrating. No use getting them to repair it; I'll be more confident having a quality Porsche shop fix it that has done this repair before.
The real pain will be in the delays for the next work as the holidays come on.
Figure the damage to the jackpoints happened at the body shop that did the rear end repair. Really frustrating. No use getting them to repair it; I'll be more confident having a quality Porsche shop fix it that has done this repair before.
The real pain will be in the delays for the next work as the holidays come on.
#182
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by LPMM
I suddenly got the urge to buy a bunch of parts, drive my 964 to CT, and book a couple weeks at the nearest motel. Well done sir, well done.
#183
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Mr.Alex
In the picture with the rear bumper off, it seems like there is space to remove the driver side timing chain cover with the distributor in. Is this possible or is there not enough clearance?
But if you have to take yours out, may as well send it to Steve weiner for a full rebuild. Belt, bearings, etc. wonder if he can change the hall sensor...
#184
Race Car
#185
Rob, Your sandblaster free? may need to clean up the lower control arms and brake calipers. Wanna know how you like your new bushings. My CW bushings are making a lot of noise. they may be cracked too
#186
Race Car
Thread Starter
It's a soda blaster. So it won't do much for your brakes. It'll clean up control arms though. Feel free to come try it out...
As to bushings. The elephant bushings are awesome. Exactly what I wanted, less deflection than stock, but for all intents and purposes, works the same as stock. Time will tell how long they last, and if they can handle the cold without tearing. But I think we went the right way sticking with rubber.
As to bushings. The elephant bushings are awesome. Exactly what I wanted, less deflection than stock, but for all intents and purposes, works the same as stock. Time will tell how long they last, and if they can handle the cold without tearing. But I think we went the right way sticking with rubber.
#187
Race Car
Thread Starter
Next up...the lobster rocket from Maine...
The list on this one is looooooong. So I'll spare the long intro. Everything from the sun frames down will be new, restored, or upgraded...basically same as last, but more tweaks and cool stuff coming...
Lots of grime and corrosion to sort through as well. Fun stuff...
The list on this one is looooooong. So I'll spare the long intro. Everything from the sun frames down will be new, restored, or upgraded...basically same as last, but more tweaks and cool stuff coming...
Lots of grime and corrosion to sort through as well. Fun stuff...
#188
Race Car
Thread Starter
And a particular shout out to Fairfield county Motorsport for re-welding the front jack points...
So many shops turned the job away or just couldn't do it. And ff county took it, did a great job, turned it around quickly and repainted. Fantastic.
So many shops turned the job away or just couldn't do it. And ff county took it, did a great job, turned it around quickly and repainted. Fantastic.
#191
Rennlist Member
Awesome thread Goughary thanks for the pics and updates.
#192
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by RicardoD
Awesome thread Goughary thanks for the pics and updates.
I think I missed your entire engine rebuild thread. Post me a link to it. Did it work out ok???!
We are sending all the hardware on this car out for yellow zinc plating, so if anyone has a suggestion for who those should go to,,,let me know a good vendor...
#193
Race Car
Thread Starter
Today was mostly about cleaning. With some mild surprises...
Since the lobster rockets previous owner was nowhere to be found...I enlisted the current owner to come lend a hand...and he had a crazy need to clean...and clean, and clean...what a job. So all the parts off the car. And the ones I was removing (right front suspension came out today and a little off the back), and then the wheel wells for cleaned for the first time in 25 years. I'll take better picks tomorrow, we ran out of light and my shop is dark.
To clean the wheel wells, we sprayed the inside of the well with a water based degreaser from Napa, and let it begin to soften the grit. We didn't want to sand off the paint in the process...so after a good long soaking, then sopping wet rags and very softly, letting the degreaser/ water mix do the work, we (he) slopped away the dirt and age old grime. Cutting it down little by little till it was mostly all gone. And then I took a strong hose and hosed it out. This was the best part, because then we swept out the shop floor and it's the first time that has been cleaned in years....so that's good too!
As for the work/disassembly. Nothing major to report. Right rear hard line to the brakes was rusted solid, so that is being replaced. I think we will make our own new hard line. Shouldn't be too hard.
I had another seized bolt in the right front control arm. I ran into this with John's car as well. So I developed a new trick. Take the impact wrench, and a 10mm six point impact socket, and hit the bolt from the head and spin it counter clockwise. If the bolt is seized, it'll rip the head off. If not, it'll begin to move and then unseize itself, and then just grab the nut on the back and it'll zip off. But if the head rips off, then flip the control arm and set your impact wrench to tighten. And hit the nut and tighten it- pulls the bolt straight through the arm...since it now has no head.
Then punch the bolt through the rest of the way and all set.
Next steps are to remove the rear end, get all the hardware off to yellow zinc plating, and begin soda basting...clean everything, and then it's on to pressing out wheel bearings and bushings...
Also. I bought a 19mm impact swivel socket and a impact swivel and both came in handy. The bolts in the control arms are impossible to reach without a swivel impact, and the IR 231ha impact gun is turning out to be the best purchase of the year. Took the bolts out with zero effort. Without the gun, I had to use my leg to push the wrench, because I wasn't strong enough to move the wrench. That much lateral force on a car up on jack stands, is just dumb risk. So the impact gun and 19mm impact swivel is significantly safer.
Since the lobster rockets previous owner was nowhere to be found...I enlisted the current owner to come lend a hand...and he had a crazy need to clean...and clean, and clean...what a job. So all the parts off the car. And the ones I was removing (right front suspension came out today and a little off the back), and then the wheel wells for cleaned for the first time in 25 years. I'll take better picks tomorrow, we ran out of light and my shop is dark.
To clean the wheel wells, we sprayed the inside of the well with a water based degreaser from Napa, and let it begin to soften the grit. We didn't want to sand off the paint in the process...so after a good long soaking, then sopping wet rags and very softly, letting the degreaser/ water mix do the work, we (he) slopped away the dirt and age old grime. Cutting it down little by little till it was mostly all gone. And then I took a strong hose and hosed it out. This was the best part, because then we swept out the shop floor and it's the first time that has been cleaned in years....so that's good too!
As for the work/disassembly. Nothing major to report. Right rear hard line to the brakes was rusted solid, so that is being replaced. I think we will make our own new hard line. Shouldn't be too hard.
I had another seized bolt in the right front control arm. I ran into this with John's car as well. So I developed a new trick. Take the impact wrench, and a 10mm six point impact socket, and hit the bolt from the head and spin it counter clockwise. If the bolt is seized, it'll rip the head off. If not, it'll begin to move and then unseize itself, and then just grab the nut on the back and it'll zip off. But if the head rips off, then flip the control arm and set your impact wrench to tighten. And hit the nut and tighten it- pulls the bolt straight through the arm...since it now has no head.
Then punch the bolt through the rest of the way and all set.
Next steps are to remove the rear end, get all the hardware off to yellow zinc plating, and begin soda basting...clean everything, and then it's on to pressing out wheel bearings and bushings...
Also. I bought a 19mm impact swivel socket and a impact swivel and both came in handy. The bolts in the control arms are impossible to reach without a swivel impact, and the IR 231ha impact gun is turning out to be the best purchase of the year. Took the bolts out with zero effort. Without the gun, I had to use my leg to push the wrench, because I wasn't strong enough to move the wrench. That much lateral force on a car up on jack stands, is just dumb risk. So the impact gun and 19mm impact swivel is significantly safer.
#194
Race Car
Thread Starter
Ok. Won't bore you with details. Below are a couple pics of the front and rear driver side wheel wells cleaned yesterday. The passenger side got done today.
Also had the pleasure of our friend Dave coming and joining the garage for the day with his C4...we did a bit of checking to make sure there are no fluid leaks, ran through the operation of the pressurizer for the hydraulics. And installed a new cover over the back of the alternator. This is to say, Dave did that and I watched.
I actually feel like I didn't do much. I did get out to Napa and bought two replacement hard lines for the rear brakes. Those will have to be bent to shape...the originals were rusted solid. If anyone has any bending advice, lemme hear it...
Kudos to Mike. All the grime from the car has been transferred to him by the end of cleaning. Car looks fantastic.
Also had the pleasure of our friend Dave coming and joining the garage for the day with his C4...we did a bit of checking to make sure there are no fluid leaks, ran through the operation of the pressurizer for the hydraulics. And installed a new cover over the back of the alternator. This is to say, Dave did that and I watched.
I actually feel like I didn't do much. I did get out to Napa and bought two replacement hard lines for the rear brakes. Those will have to be bent to shape...the originals were rusted solid. If anyone has any bending advice, lemme hear it...
Kudos to Mike. All the grime from the car has been transferred to him by the end of cleaning. Car looks fantastic.