Replacing Steering Rack Bushings.
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Replacing Steering Rack Bushings.
I'm looking to swap the steering rack bushings with new OEM rubber ones. I saw the Poly Bushings on a ebay vendor, but I have doubts it will do much more, if anything more.
I want to do this without dropping the rack. Is there anything I should loosen beforehand while doing this? Like the nut behind the steering wheel or anything like that? I heard its tight to do but possible. I've ordered all the bolts and washers already.
Is there any advice or a DIY.
I want to do this without dropping the rack. Is there anything I should loosen beforehand while doing this? Like the nut behind the steering wheel or anything like that? I heard its tight to do but possible. I've ordered all the bolts and washers already.
Is there any advice or a DIY.
#2
Race Car
You may want to look into installing the 993 steering rack support while you are in there. I think it was mark shaws rebuild thread a few years back that had great picks of the process when he did his...
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I was thinking the same thing, just for the sake of putting it in. But I believe the pre -92 cars are extremely tough to fit with that because of the hard lines around there.
#5
Nordschleife Master
I have those bushings on my car, not sure how much they helped, kinda scared myself to death during the install when I thought I stripped the subframe but it was just the weird feedback from the poly when I was torquing it all up.
I also have the 993 brace installed after following Marc Shaw's lead and yes, really a pain to get it into place.
You need to replace the bolts when you do the job. The 4 bolts you need are 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 60mm length and 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 80mm length. The OEM bolts are grade 10.9 so don't go any lower. The ones Fastenal sells are 12.9.
More guidance
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/5...996_640496.pdf
I also have the 993 brace installed after following Marc Shaw's lead and yes, really a pain to get it into place.
You need to replace the bolts when you do the job. The 4 bolts you need are 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 60mm length and 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 80mm length. The OEM bolts are grade 10.9 so don't go any lower. The ones Fastenal sells are 12.9.
More guidance
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/5...996_640496.pdf
#6
Drifting
If you track your car and have done everything else regarding upgrades for the front end, then do this as a final touch. For street use or a track day a year, they make no difference. But it is always fun to replace stuff so if you want to, buy them, but you will not notice them. Replacing the inner tie rods with the C4/RS version is much better and should be done before the steering rack bushings.
Thomas
Thomas
#7
Was thinking, does that rack brace fit 89 C4? Is it only for the C2? I'd like to get one for my car eventually.
All the ones I see for sale state they are for 92 - 98.
All the ones I see for sale state they are for 92 - 98.
Trending Topics
#11
I bent the line Alex. no problem. just slightly. I also installed those blue poly bushing from ebay as well.
It makes the steering 10x quicker now :P. J/K didn't make any difference.
Thomas, I am still debating to install the RS rack or not
It makes the steering 10x quicker now :P. J/K didn't make any difference.
Thomas, I am still debating to install the RS rack or not
#12
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I have those bushings on my car, not sure how much they helped, kinda scared myself to death during the install when I thought I stripped the subframe but it was just the weird feedback from the poly when I was torquing it all up.
I also have the 993 brace installed after following Marc Shaw's lead and yes, really a pain to get it into place.
You need to replace the bolts when you do the job. The 4 bolts you need are 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 60mm length and 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 80mm length. The OEM bolts are grade 10.9 so don't go any lower. The ones Fastenal sells are 12.9.
More guidance
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/5...996_640496.pdf
I also have the 993 brace installed after following Marc Shaw's lead and yes, really a pain to get it into place.
You need to replace the bolts when you do the job. The 4 bolts you need are 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 60mm length and 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 80mm length. The OEM bolts are grade 10.9 so don't go any lower. The ones Fastenal sells are 12.9.
More guidance
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/5...996_640496.pdf
If you track your car and have done everything else regarding upgrades for the front end, then do this as a final touch. For street use or a track day a year, they make no difference. But it is always fun to replace stuff so if you want to, buy them, but you will not notice them. Replacing the inner tie rods with the C4/RS version is much better and should be done before the steering rack bushings.
Thomas
Thomas
Although I also hear that stiffer bushings reduce tracking on the freeway.
Just do the manual rack man. You'll get Thor size forearms from parking. lol
#13
Three Wheelin'
Always wondered if the rack bushings could just be replaced with something solid. Seems odd to use soft bushings which allow the entire rack to move when you turn the wheel.
#14
Race Car
Alex. Would you mind listing the part numbers and the bolts and maybe shooting some pics along the way? I'll be doing this likely next summer...and would be great to see some pics and hear the process etc...