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Replacing Steering Rack Bushings.

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Old 01-15-2015, 10:58 PM
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Mr.Alex
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Default Replacing Steering Rack Bushings.

I'm looking to swap the steering rack bushings with new OEM rubber ones. I saw the Poly Bushings on a ebay vendor, but I have doubts it will do much more, if anything more.

I want to do this without dropping the rack. Is there anything I should loosen beforehand while doing this? Like the nut behind the steering wheel or anything like that? I heard its tight to do but possible. I've ordered all the bolts and washers already.

Is there any advice or a DIY.
Old 01-15-2015, 11:02 PM
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Goughary
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You may want to look into installing the 993 steering rack support while you are in there. I think it was mark shaws rebuild thread a few years back that had great picks of the process when he did his...
Old 01-15-2015, 11:06 PM
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DobermanDad
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Rothmans also sells upgraded bushings.

http://www.rothsport.com/Products/Chassis/Chassis-Products-964-993-Steering-Rack-Brace.htm
Old 01-15-2015, 11:43 PM
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Mr.Alex
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Originally Posted by DobermanDad
Rothmans also sells upgraded bushings.

http://www.rothsport.com/Products/Ch...Rack-Brace.htm
Nice find. Somehow I completely skipped over this in my search.

Originally Posted by Goughary
You may want to look into installing the 993 steering rack support while you are in there. I think it was mark shaws rebuild thread a few years back that had great picks of the process when he did his...
I was thinking the same thing, just for the sake of putting it in. But I believe the pre -92 cars are extremely tough to fit with that because of the hard lines around there.
Old 01-15-2015, 11:51 PM
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Vandit
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I have those bushings on my car, not sure how much they helped, kinda scared myself to death during the install when I thought I stripped the subframe but it was just the weird feedback from the poly when I was torquing it all up.

I also have the 993 brace installed after following Marc Shaw's lead and yes, really a pain to get it into place.

You need to replace the bolts when you do the job. The 4 bolts you need are 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 60mm length and 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 80mm length. The OEM bolts are grade 10.9 so don't go any lower. The ones Fastenal sells are 12.9.

More guidance
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/5...996_640496.pdf
Old 01-16-2015, 04:07 AM
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ThomasC2
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If you track your car and have done everything else regarding upgrades for the front end, then do this as a final touch. For street use or a track day a year, they make no difference. But it is always fun to replace stuff so if you want to, buy them, but you will not notice them. Replacing the inner tie rods with the C4/RS version is much better and should be done before the steering rack bushings.

Thomas
Old 01-16-2015, 10:15 AM
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DobermanDad
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Was thinking, does that rack brace fit 89 C4? Is it only for the C2? I'd like to get one for my car eventually.

All the ones I see for sale state they are for 92 - 98.
Old 01-16-2015, 11:09 AM
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The brace fits the c4, all years, but the hydraulic lines make it a very tough install. But the brace fits.
Old 01-16-2015, 11:37 AM
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Ahh, cool.
Old 01-16-2015, 12:12 PM
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I think you have to bend the lines to make it fit. I have a manual rack so no problem fitting the brace.

Thomas
Old 01-16-2015, 12:41 PM
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FlyinTomato
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I bent the line Alex. no problem. just slightly. I also installed those blue poly bushing from ebay as well.
It makes the steering 10x quicker now :P. J/K didn't make any difference.

Thomas, I am still debating to install the RS rack or not
Old 01-16-2015, 01:05 PM
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Mr.Alex
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Originally Posted by Vandit
I have those bushings on my car, not sure how much they helped, kinda scared myself to death during the install when I thought I stripped the subframe but it was just the weird feedback from the poly when I was torquing it all up.

I also have the 993 brace installed after following Marc Shaw's lead and yes, really a pain to get it into place.

You need to replace the bolts when you do the job. The 4 bolts you need are 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 60mm length and 2 M8, 1.25 thread, 80mm length. The OEM bolts are grade 10.9 so don't go any lower. The ones Fastenal sells are 12.9.

More guidance
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/5...996_640496.pdf
The bolts was my other question. The parts diagrams just have the one bolt part #, presumably for the longer one. You guys got the shorter ones from hardware place then?

Originally Posted by ThomasC2
If you track your car and have done everything else regarding upgrades for the front end, then do this as a final touch. For street use or a track day a year, they make no difference. But it is always fun to replace stuff so if you want to, buy them, but you will not notice them. Replacing the inner tie rods with the C4/RS version is much better and should be done before the steering rack bushings.

Thomas
I'm not looking to just swap them out. I think mine are a bit done. At lower speeds the wheel shimmies a bit and my steering wheel has gone a tiny bit off center again. Two shops I spoke to said the bushings are the likely culprit.

Although I also hear that stiffer bushings reduce tracking on the freeway.

Originally Posted by FlyinTomato
I bent the line Alex. no problem. just slightly. I also installed those blue poly bushing from ebay as well.
It makes the steering 10x quicker now :P. J/K didn't make any difference.

Thomas, I am still debating to install the RS rack or not
Just do the manual rack man. You'll get Thor size forearms from parking. lol
Old 01-16-2015, 01:32 PM
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-nick
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Always wondered if the rack bushings could just be replaced with something solid. Seems odd to use soft bushings which allow the entire rack to move when you turn the wheel.
Old 01-16-2015, 02:51 PM
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Goughary
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Alex. Would you mind listing the part numbers and the bolts and maybe shooting some pics along the way? I'll be doing this likely next summer...and would be great to see some pics and hear the process etc...
Old 01-16-2015, 03:12 PM
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Greg_V
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It is a crying shame that Rothsport is on the way to work from my house. I might was well just have my paycheck direct deposited into their accounts.


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