Rebuilding 964 Lola after my accident
10-10-2014, 09:41 PM
#121
Drifting
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Hey Doug. No problem. It's no a big job when it's all in pieces like it is. I recall Dave and Pete having front rotor/pad issues with the 964 on track which was in part heat related. It's one area they beefed up considerably when they designed the 993. If you do decide to do it the place that sells the hose is 1km away in onehunga. Will cost around $100 in materials and require a dremel a sheet of poly plastic 4mm and take you about 3-4 hrs of your own time. If you are going to track Lola again it will improve front rotor and pad life considerably IMO....
Next, research how to make the rotor end piece. :-)
10-10-2014, 10:50 PM
#122
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Graeme, this looks like what you were telling me about... See pic or link
Nice disk end attachment that focuses the air on the disk air intake:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...l#post11462565
993 DIY routing brake ducting:
http://www.p-car.com/diy/coolingduct/
Nice disk end attachment that focuses the air on the disk air intake:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...l#post11462565
993 DIY routing brake ducting:
http://www.p-car.com/diy/coolingduct/
10-11-2014, 09:23 PM
#123
Rennlist Member
Doug,
My system is a bit different than what Graeme has on his Subaru which is a much more effective and Motorsports orientated solution.
My kit was from Techart. It is ducted to the inside guard liners where the steel flange that mounds the hose is secured by rivits then uses riveted air deflectors to direct high velocity air to the back of the brake disc (when the disc is mounted on the hub you can get a better understanding of the orientation but it does look like some thought was put into ensuring the air was directed to the right part of the wheel assembly. For this modification to do its job you must remove the factory disc backing plates. I removed these front and rear years ago in any case (without any untoward effect as many others have also found).
So the solution is neater and a little more "factory looking" however not as accurate or effective as Graemes solution and similar used on dedicated track cars. My car is a hot rod but its still a road car (certainly it will be returned for road car duties in 2015 after the Jan 13th date in any case), sol the solution is neat, tidy, pretty effective.
I have attached a few pictures from my car to try and explain it all along with some snapshots of the Techart kits. My suggestion of rivets and poly prop was to create a defector plate that achieves the same affect as the one I have and riveting it in place. The guys who did your plastic welding can certainly fabricate something simple up at low cost i am sure.
For the hose - it was for my turbo S factory brake duct kit which was installed in version 2.1.13 of my 993 back around 10 years ago. The shop was an wholesaler of hoses and pipes and no doubt hydraulic stuff down the end of a road like yours where it hits the main industrial drive in Onehunga (Manukau Harbour side). Im sorry, I could find it again in a car but my memory of road and place name sin NZ gets hazy after almost a decade living offshore. Here is the hose I used and I have a sample of it in storage I am sure. Jamie now has the set up and may have the hose to confirm its manufacture but i would just take your ducts down there and give them a try for the right diameter. I zip toed mine on and then covered in tape and they lasted quite a few years on the road no issue....it was not expensive to by the hose - maybe $40.
My system is a bit different than what Graeme has on his Subaru which is a much more effective and Motorsports orientated solution.
My kit was from Techart. It is ducted to the inside guard liners where the steel flange that mounds the hose is secured by rivits then uses riveted air deflectors to direct high velocity air to the back of the brake disc (when the disc is mounted on the hub you can get a better understanding of the orientation but it does look like some thought was put into ensuring the air was directed to the right part of the wheel assembly. For this modification to do its job you must remove the factory disc backing plates. I removed these front and rear years ago in any case (without any untoward effect as many others have also found).
So the solution is neater and a little more "factory looking" however not as accurate or effective as Graemes solution and similar used on dedicated track cars. My car is a hot rod but its still a road car (certainly it will be returned for road car duties in 2015 after the Jan 13th date in any case), sol the solution is neat, tidy, pretty effective.
I have attached a few pictures from my car to try and explain it all along with some snapshots of the Techart kits. My suggestion of rivets and poly prop was to create a defector plate that achieves the same affect as the one I have and riveting it in place. The guys who did your plastic welding can certainly fabricate something simple up at low cost i am sure.
For the hose - it was for my turbo S factory brake duct kit which was installed in version 2.1.13 of my 993 back around 10 years ago. The shop was an wholesaler of hoses and pipes and no doubt hydraulic stuff down the end of a road like yours where it hits the main industrial drive in Onehunga (Manukau Harbour side). Im sorry, I could find it again in a car but my memory of road and place name sin NZ gets hazy after almost a decade living offshore. Here is the hose I used and I have a sample of it in storage I am sure. Jamie now has the set up and may have the hose to confirm its manufacture but i would just take your ducts down there and give them a try for the right diameter. I zip toed mine on and then covered in tape and they lasted quite a few years on the road no issue....it was not expensive to by the hose - maybe $40.
10-12-2014, 12:20 AM
#124
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Ah, thanks Macca. I've seen this setup also on RL somewhere. Looks nice and neat. Thanks for digging out the details. You have a photo for everything on your car which I guess helps heaps when you live remotely 
10-12-2014, 12:56 AM
#125
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No problems Doug. I have asked Dean and his team to photograph all the work they have done on the 993 over the last 4 years so the file runs to many many hundred of pictures which is an incredible resource when I need to heck something myself remotely.
The place I used for the hose was on Nielson street - but after 10 years I've struggled to recognise that place as the area and businesses have changes alot. I used google at pavement view and took a trip along the road. Technology is amazing. I see there is a place call HCD at 144 Neilson St which I think may work for your needs. The nice thing about the hose you see in my picture is that its heat reliant rubber over a steel spiral backbone. It flexes very well and lasted too. Comes in a smaller diameter too Im sure to fit the end of your brake duct. My thought would be that you find the right diameter, hook it up and on the side you need make the dremel alteration to the alloy panel like in the 993 link that holds one of the fan assemblies in place so you can run it through then find something to terminate it in that would act like a flange that can be drilled and riveted to the guard liner like mine. Cut an oval hole through the liner then have a deflector fashioned up out of plastic by the welding guys. Thats one option or else the option like Graemes which is less subtle but doe a far better job of locating the air to precisely the disc annular. My set up probably cools the whole calliper/pad and disc assembly but not with the PSI that a direct nossel to the disc would do....
The place I used for the hose was on Nielson street - but after 10 years I've struggled to recognise that place as the area and businesses have changes alot. I used google at pavement view and took a trip along the road. Technology is amazing. I see there is a place call HCD at 144 Neilson St which I think may work for your needs. The nice thing about the hose you see in my picture is that its heat reliant rubber over a steel spiral backbone. It flexes very well and lasted too. Comes in a smaller diameter too Im sure to fit the end of your brake duct. My thought would be that you find the right diameter, hook it up and on the side you need make the dremel alteration to the alloy panel like in the 993 link that holds one of the fan assemblies in place so you can run it through then find something to terminate it in that would act like a flange that can be drilled and riveted to the guard liner like mine. Cut an oval hole through the liner then have a deflector fashioned up out of plastic by the welding guys. Thats one option or else the option like Graemes which is less subtle but doe a far better job of locating the air to precisely the disc annular. My set up probably cools the whole calliper/pad and disc assembly but not with the PSI that a direct nossel to the disc would do....
10-12-2014, 01:52 AM
#126
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Thanks Macca. I also prefer the look of the black pipe work over the commonly used orange variety. As long as it can withstand some decent heat it would work well. I'll try the place you mentioned otherwise can search around. Shouldn't be too hard to find.
In Wellington for a long weekend at the moment... Forced relaxation.
In Wellington for a long weekend at the moment... Forced relaxation.
10-13-2014, 03:57 AM
#127
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Back to reality and after a long weekend away in Wellington with extraodinarily great weather.
Cheered up by the arrival of a couple of packages. This one is the Kenlowe fan I'll fit on the oil cooler... Leveraging the research done by 964 Refurb who installed this fan on his rebuild. Modern, efficient, light and significantly cheaper than the OEM fan unit.
Cheered up by the arrival of a couple of packages. This one is the Kenlowe fan I'll fit on the oil cooler... Leveraging the research done by 964 Refurb who installed this fan on his rebuild. Modern, efficient, light and significantly cheaper than the OEM fan unit.
10-13-2014, 04:03 AM
#128
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And a package of assorted bits and pieces from Design911...
Front bumper smile rubber
Right sill seal rubber
Steering rack boots
Track rod - this will complete the replacement of the steering kit on the RHS with all new components.
Steering angle limitation - wondered why your 17" wheels rub ont he inside of your guards on full lock, you ned a couple of these nuts 96434732502 NZ$20 ea
Headlamp seals, screws and bezels ready for paint
Clear indicator kit
Front bumper smile rubber
Right sill seal rubber
Steering rack boots
Track rod - this will complete the replacement of the steering kit on the RHS with all new components.
Steering angle limitation - wondered why your 17" wheels rub ont he inside of your guards on full lock, you ned a couple of these nuts 96434732502 NZ$20 ea
Headlamp seals, screws and bezels ready for paint
Clear indicator kit
10-14-2014, 03:15 AM
#129
Racer
nice move on the shifter. can't wait to see how you enjoy that. was tempted by the 12 o'clock revcounter myself but the version with trip computer looks like they had to squash the 1 and 2000 rpm pieces which look strange. that red accent will tie in with the cabin nicely.
10-14-2014, 04:44 AM
#130
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Thanks Sam, I'm looking forward to seeing the Rothsport shifter with FDM short shift kit installed. Haven't ordered the red background dial yet but do like the fact that my rev counter is so plain. No LCD.
It should end up looking like this but I've been playing in my mind with whether to customise the look further just because I can. Coming around to keeping it really plain and letting the red colour do it's job like this one.
It should end up looking like this but I've been playing in my mind with whether to customise the look further just because I can. Coming around to keeping it really plain and letting the red colour do it's job like this one.
10-15-2014, 05:34 PM
#132
Drifting
Nice work Doug. Looks like you will be finishing off the things I never got around to doing. I'll see you back on the track and you, John and I should be about even in our old air suckers down the back. Or we might be in the three Honda's.....
10-17-2014, 11:14 PM
#134
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Removing guards is such a PITA job
After much procrastonation I'm working on removing the damaged right guard. Using a chisel to remove the sealant around each bolt on the inside of the guard then using a set spanner to remove the bolt, usually a 1/6th turn at a time.
Well, I have two bolts left at the top inside of the door jam side. Have removed the two oil lines to get to even see them and one of the bolt heads had the guard squashed in against the bolt by the accident. The guard is now relatively free all around these two bolts. One I should be able to get undone but the other looks impossible without cutting a hole in the guard with a gas axe to get better access to it. The guard is going to be thrown away anyway but I don't have a gas axe.
Maybe an orbital wheel? It's getting a bit beyond me so I've knocked off for some lunch and time to think.
Well, I have two bolts left at the top inside of the door jam side. Have removed the two oil lines to get to even see them and one of the bolt heads had the guard squashed in against the bolt by the accident. The guard is now relatively free all around these two bolts. One I should be able to get undone but the other looks impossible without cutting a hole in the guard with a gas axe to get better access to it. The guard is going to be thrown away anyway but I don't have a gas axe.
Maybe an orbital wheel? It's getting a bit beyond me so I've knocked off for some lunch and time to think.