jpar

I bought my car back in February knowing that it would need a clutch in the near future. The car drove fine except for the fact that the pedal was extremely hard. The previous owner had done all the usual, master,slave and line so I knew it was something internal. My plan was to do an rs lwf and clutch, steve wong chip and cat delete at some point over the winter/early spring.
It was just sitting there in the garage and the weather warm so I decide to start yesterday...

I followed Adrian's book and it was pretty much spot on with the step-by-step



getting ready to remove the bumper






I think a reseal might be in order


all the wiring disconnected


oil drained, ac compressor removed


everything disconnected, ready to drop


hydraulic table from harbor freight worked like a champ


and it's out


the table works well until I transfer to an engine stand


trans was pretty grimy, probably caused by the leaky rear main seal


leaky rear main


clutch disc was down to the rivets


pressure plate had a nice groove in it


does anyone know the culprit here?


the fan has a crack, should I definitely replace it?


I'll add more to this as I go along over the next few months. I already have a long list but if anyone wants to chime in with a "while you're in there", please feel free.

greg1990964

****! I had no idea Harbor freight had a hydraulic table! I am using the ****ty ATV lift. Very herky jerky and that table looks like it goes up higher. Looks like you know what you are doing. My clutch was in identical shape. I just reused the dmf and it was fine. No chattering. I never used engine stand, just a block of wood and another small jack. Would like to hear what you think of LWF sand chip vs stock.

Vandit

Oil leak culprit, there's a gasket on the breather cover, a metal crush washer on the oil sender unit and a o-ring at the base too. All easy to do w/ the engine out.

Cracking fan, yes replace. You don't want it to explode at any RPMs and tear up your engine compartment.

What year is your car? It's interesting for Porsche reconfigured the fuel return line at the back of the FPR. On my '91 it take a bend to the left and goes around the cruise motor. On yours it takes a bent down then left and is routed under the cruise motor.

Twood

I like your work and want to follow the thread.
I did the same on my engine earlier in the year including a new clutch. My valve covers were leaking rather badly and when I removed them I found I had two broken head studs that required me to go much deeper into the engine then originally intended. the it was rings, valve guides, seals etc etc

Good luck with the project-even though there will be times when you may wonder why you started the job the end result is worth all the effort.

mf_rsr

Nice (brave) work :-)
Whilst you're in there:
Engine mounts
Reinforced carrier
RS pulley if no a/c
other...

good luck!

HiWind

Nicely done ... Look forward to a speedy return!
How long does it take to get it down and out?
OEM sound pad or some closed-cell foam going in as a liner?

hepkat63

good for you - great job ! Almost makes me what to 'get bored' myself and take my engine out and fix my insulation

Metal Guru

Looks like you will need to replace your transaxle input shaft seal too. Also, be sure to remove the rust from the input shaft and lube it well as this was the source of the hard clutch operation.

911Jetta

Wow, you definitely have the space and skills to do this. Now's the time of year to be going this too.

Regarding the small fan cracks. I spotted a couple small cracks on my fan also, about a year ago. I marked the ends of the cracks with a dot from a permanent pen. I check the marks periodically and they haven't spread.

alexjc4

Great stuff.

While you are there you may as well look at the power steering seals (the camshaft seal and pump seals themselves). It looks a bit damp in that area but that may just be oil from the disassemble process.

nidon

wow , when I'm bored SWMBO get's me jobs to do
Impressed

jpar

Thanks for the replies and suggestions, keep them coming.

greg- I went to harbor freight to buy the atv jack and saw this table, I'm glad i went with the table, it worked like it was made for the car.

Vandit- I think I'm just going to do every seal and gasket that I can, I don't want to do this again anytime soon. My car is a 91 with a 7/90 build date.

Twood- thanks, I'm sure it'll all be worth it in the end. I'm hoping I don't find any big surprises.

mf- I love your car by the way, I already have RS mounts and plan on doing the carrier reinforcement thanks

Hi wind- thanks, it took about 5 hours or so to get it all out. I plan on painting the engine bay and running no pad, I haven't had one for the past year and don't mind the noise.

hepkat- do it, it's not that difficult, if you fly me down, I'll do it for you....

metal guru- thanks, I plan on cleaning and changing everything clutch related, you wouldn't believe how hard the pedal was, I'm lucky it didn't snap the clutch fork bosses.

911jetta- Yeah luckily I have plenty of space and it's a detached garage so I don't bother anybody, no heat sucks though.

alex- You're right that oil is from the disassemble process but I'm going to replace those seals along with the belt anyway.

nidon- I had to look up SWMBO haha, mine still gives me plenty to do believe me.

jpar

I was able to spend a couple of hours out in the garage after work so I did some more disassembling. Most of the oil is coming from the breather gasket. I also found that the nuts for the oil pressure housing weren't very tight and that was leaking as well. My lower valve covers are pretty beat up. I have a lot of de-greasing ahead of me.

Vandit

Yessir, that's pretty much how nasty the top of my motor was when I pulled off the engine shroud recently.

lateforlunch

nice work Jpar, looks like you got your moneys worth from that clutch!