Bitter-Sweet Beginning
#46
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Tools of the trade:
Found that the 3M glue remover works best only in certain time frame. I spray it on directly and wait 15-30 seconds, then I try to scrub the whole thing off the metal. If i wait too long the glue becomes "gluey" again if not long enough it is still attached to the body. Then, immediately after - I wipe the area with shop towel to remove any remaining thin film of glue before becomes tacky again. I use the terra towels to limit my overspray, to get the glue out of small areas and pick up glue blobs after scrubbing. When Im done with an area I spray and wipe everything with simple green to dilute and neutralize any remaining 3M.
Takes a looong time.
Found that the 3M glue remover works best only in certain time frame. I spray it on directly and wait 15-30 seconds, then I try to scrub the whole thing off the metal. If i wait too long the glue becomes "gluey" again if not long enough it is still attached to the body. Then, immediately after - I wipe the area with shop towel to remove any remaining thin film of glue before becomes tacky again. I use the terra towels to limit my overspray, to get the glue out of small areas and pick up glue blobs after scrubbing. When Im done with an area I spray and wipe everything with simple green to dilute and neutralize any remaining 3M.
Takes a looong time.
#47
Nordschleife Master
Here's a pic of the bellows and how it wasn't flush with the top of the fresh air intake bodywork:
#49
Nordschleife Master
There are two screws either side that attach to a plate underneath that secures it. Remove the plastic scuttle first and then you can adjust the bellows and plate to get it to seal properly against the fresh air intake.
#50
There are companies that can analyze the liquid that is on the paint and determine what it is. I have been involved with shipping carrier claims in the past and they will, in every way possible, minimize their liability. Good luck with this claim. Hopefully you have pre shipping records and special insurance for transport specifically outlining their responsibility.
If it is acid, I would neutralize the acid first then sand flat in preparation for a primer coat. The wrap option for a race car sounds like the way to go. You can always remove and start the paint process where you left off with the primer if you choose to in the future.
If it is acid, I would neutralize the acid first then sand flat in preparation for a primer coat. The wrap option for a race car sounds like the way to go. You can always remove and start the paint process where you left off with the primer if you choose to in the future.
#51
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
boxey911: Thanks for the info.
tcnicholas 964: Hopefully it will all be taken care of by my insurance. I have plenty of evidence that I have already supplied to claims department. Im gathering ideas for wrap design and/or re-paint/decals. I will post some inspirations soon.
More cleaning happened in the past 2 days. Cleaning behind the pedals was a nightmare. There is more to be done on drivers side (firewall and side carmel glue thing). Photo-progress below...
tcnicholas 964: Hopefully it will all be taken care of by my insurance. I have plenty of evidence that I have already supplied to claims department. Im gathering ideas for wrap design and/or re-paint/decals. I will post some inspirations soon.
More cleaning happened in the past 2 days. Cleaning behind the pedals was a nightmare. There is more to be done on drivers side (firewall and side carmel glue thing). Photo-progress below...
#52
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Wasn't happy with the previous results and spent more time behind the pedals.
Driver side DONE!
Passenger side TO DO!
It took full hour to take out the glue from behind the steering column. The more Im getting in to the caramelized glue the toughest it gets. 3M doesn't even touch it. Metal scraper is the only thing that has worked so far.
Driver side DONE!
Passenger side TO DO!
It took full hour to take out the glue from behind the steering column. The more Im getting in to the caramelized glue the toughest it gets. 3M doesn't even touch it. Metal scraper is the only thing that has worked so far.
#53
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Was researching some insulation options and came up with this:
Lizard Skin (as proposed in this thread) - $300
Al's Liner + Al's HNR Heat and Noise Reducer - $150
Hippo Liner + Hy-Tech Ceramic Paint Additive - $75
I'm leaning towards Hippo Liner and Ceramic Additive as I can control the heat vs abrasion mixture on different floor panels. Also, I can mix it in any color I want and I don't care about the sound insulation.
Lizard Skin (as proposed in this thread) - $300
Al's Liner + Al's HNR Heat and Noise Reducer - $150
Hippo Liner + Hy-Tech Ceramic Paint Additive - $75
I'm leaning towards Hippo Liner and Ceramic Additive as I can control the heat vs abrasion mixture on different floor panels. Also, I can mix it in any color I want and I don't care about the sound insulation.
#57
Drifting
That's a pretty cracking colour scheme.
BTW, do you have any spare time to remove my left over sound proofing, it looks cleaner on the inside than I've seen many on the outside, great job.
K
BTW, do you have any spare time to remove my left over sound proofing, it looks cleaner on the inside than I've seen many on the outside, great job.
K
#60
Rennlist Member
That orange and grey render is literally the best looking scheme I have ever seen on a 964. It feels classic Porsche and yet very fresh. Background wallpaper... Set.