front strut lower mounting bolts
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
front strut lower mounting bolts
preparing to replace my suspension this weekend to bilstein HD and Red springs set up.
according to the manual. the 2 lower mounting bolts need to be replaced on each strut.
pan-head screw
m12 x 1.25 x 90
900 067 310 09
new #90038702401
These bolts are $15 each. quite expensive. No?
Is there alternative?
update, my original intention of the discussion.
I hope this post doesn't give an impression on one wants to skip/cheap out on parts. we all are willing to pay for the parts if it's necessary. I have change suspension on other cars I've own and reused all the bolts. They looked fine and held fine down the road.
When I was researching this matter, there was an argument regarding reusing the original bolts. The point was that the bolts have been tested with years of usage and they held up. Which should be reused. They new fasteners, where they have been made in big batches, one or two could have been slip thru with questionable quality.
I am not engineer, I can't agree on that argument 100%, but it does have its point.
My other question is "are these bolts TTY?"
according to the manual. the 2 lower mounting bolts need to be replaced on each strut.
pan-head screw
m12 x 1.25 x 90
900 067 310 09
new #90038702401
These bolts are $15 each. quite expensive. No?
Is there alternative?
update, my original intention of the discussion.
I hope this post doesn't give an impression on one wants to skip/cheap out on parts. we all are willing to pay for the parts if it's necessary. I have change suspension on other cars I've own and reused all the bolts. They looked fine and held fine down the road.
When I was researching this matter, there was an argument regarding reusing the original bolts. The point was that the bolts have been tested with years of usage and they held up. Which should be reused. They new fasteners, where they have been made in big batches, one or two could have been slip thru with questionable quality.
I am not engineer, I can't agree on that argument 100%, but it does have its point.
My other question is "are these bolts TTY?"
Last edited by FlyinTomato; 07-17-2013 at 11:55 AM.
#3
Three Wheelin'
I replaced mine (bolts, nuts, washers) when the new struts went in. The originals were quite chewed up after 20 years.
Order these from a dealer, not a well known site sponsor. They were cheaper and in stock !
Order these from a dealer, not a well known site sponsor. They were cheaper and in stock !
#4
Banned
Thread Starter
ah.. how long ago have you changed them? I guess I can buy same size bolt with stronger grade on fastenal? Do these bolts have shank? or threaded all the way?
I think it does make sense to change them after 20 years. I am going to change the ones for a arms and steering rack as well.
It's very discouraging when the quote come back close to $100 for a few bolts.
I think it does make sense to change them after 20 years. I am going to change the ones for a arms and steering rack as well.
It's very discouraging when the quote come back close to $100 for a few bolts.
#5
Three Wheelin'
I changed mine about 3 months ago.
They are shanked bolts. Stock or better grade from any source will work.
They are shanked bolts. Stock or better grade from any source will work.
#7
Banned
Thread Starter
So I can replace those bolts with these from fastenal? m12 1.25 90
Only problem is that I dont know if the shank length is the same. Also, Does it matter to use cap screw instead of the socket screw? Anyone has measurement of the shank?
Only problem is that I dont know if the shank length is the same. Also, Does it matter to use cap screw instead of the socket screw? Anyone has measurement of the shank?
Last edited by FlyinTomato; 07-16-2013 at 11:35 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Nordschleife Master
The issue here may be that the size of the fastener head may interfere with the camber adjustment range.
Additionally, the factory tool to adjust camber relies on the socket head fastener.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post5891890
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2520%2520%2520
Additionally, the factory tool to adjust camber relies on the socket head fastener.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post5891890
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2520%2520%2520
#9
Banned
Thread Starter
well, that leaves me no other options than buying new bolts from dealer. Gonna have to shop around.
after reading the manual again, I found that one of the control arm bolt(towards the back of the car) and the rear strut lower mounting bolts don't need to be replaced.
i probably will just suck it up to replace them all.
after reading the manual again, I found that one of the control arm bolt(towards the back of the car) and the rear strut lower mounting bolts don't need to be replaced.
i probably will just suck it up to replace them all.
#10
Rennlist Member
Try Sunset for dealer parts. Great pricing and if you are on the West Coast they are ideal as they are in Portland, OR.
#11
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chandlers Ford, Hampshire
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I recently changed mine and found the new screws were TORX head as opposed to the normal Allen/Cap headed versions on the old ones.
Around £65.00 with club discount though, that hurt.
Although I'm confident they won't ever round off in the future like the Allen head might. Remembering the 200NM torque applied to the lower fixing!!
What price peace of mind?
Around £65.00 with club discount though, that hurt.
Although I'm confident they won't ever round off in the future like the Allen head might. Remembering the 200NM torque applied to the lower fixing!!
What price peace of mind?
#12
Banned
Thread Starter
Bobster, I understand what you meant. 60 is nothing compared to what's ones life worth. Its just a bit hard to digest the porsche tax. Does other manufacturer charge that much for bolts? Perhaps its the socket design makes them more expensive than cap design?
#15
I'm not sure why these would need to be replaced when removed unless they look worn? You don't need to replace them every time you loosen/tighten them to make a camber adjustment. I don't see how removing them would cause any more damage? Of course, I'm not a structural or materials engineer so you should do what you think is right for you.