help wanted to pinpoint new oil leak
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Brockville, On, Canada
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help wanted to pinpoint new oil leak
Hi,
Fairly new to the 911 964 oil leak saga, but know that I had an oil-leak free car prior to winter storage.
For the last few runs, I have been smelling a hot oil smell in the cabin if at a light, or after parking. Seems to disappear when scooting along, so I was suspicious of an external oil leak landing on something hot.
Looked below, saw some oil. Wiped, and cleaned to keep an eye on it. This is only on drivers side heat exchanger. Now I have this:
Attachment 720512
and this:
Attachment 720513
and this:
To investigate further, what am I in to? What needs removing and replacing (bolts/gaskets/boots?). Would like to not stink after a drive, but don't mind the p-car musk.
Any help is appreciated.
Peter
Fairly new to the 911 964 oil leak saga, but know that I had an oil-leak free car prior to winter storage.
For the last few runs, I have been smelling a hot oil smell in the cabin if at a light, or after parking. Seems to disappear when scooting along, so I was suspicious of an external oil leak landing on something hot.
Looked below, saw some oil. Wiped, and cleaned to keep an eye on it. This is only on drivers side heat exchanger. Now I have this:
Attachment 720512
and this:
Attachment 720513
and this:
To investigate further, what am I in to? What needs removing and replacing (bolts/gaskets/boots?). Would like to not stink after a drive, but don't mind the p-car musk.
Any help is appreciated.
Peter
Last edited by pi5tolpete; 05-01-2013 at 09:55 AM.
#4
Formerly turbotwoshoes
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Maybe multiple sources...
If you just had wiped it down, you have a fresh drop on the nut holding your valve cover on. If it appears the oil is coming from between the cylinders, you will probably have to remove the right hand side intake manifold and can just get to the oil pressure, oil sender housing. It has an o-ring that gets hard with time. Did mine last year. Not a hard job, just tedious. I did everything top side including valve adjustment, intake sleeves, and all new upper gaskets to attain zero leaks. It was well worth it as the car idles very smoothly. Search for: Check your rubbers and plug wires
in the 964 section and I have pictures of my hard, dry, broken -o-ring that was the culprit of the leak.
in the 964 section and I have pictures of my hard, dry, broken -o-ring that was the culprit of the leak.
#5
Burning Brakes
I'm not sure if this is any help, but this is what it looks like (looking at it from the firewall side). With the engine in place, you can barely see the top of it if you peer between the alternator and the throttle body.
I had it changed while the engine was out for a clutch change, so I can't impart any DIY wisdom...but for the purposes of narrowing it down, I wonder if you might be abkle to stick a camera phone between the inlet manifold and the engine, and take a few snaps?
I had it changed while the engine was out for a clutch change, so I can't impart any DIY wisdom...but for the purposes of narrowing it down, I wonder if you might be abkle to stick a camera phone between the inlet manifold and the engine, and take a few snaps?
#6
I will be starting this Thursday so keep an eye out for the thread
So to the next round
The car performed well for 600 miles+trip to Spa and with a re-tightening of a couple of minor fixtures all the bottom end is dry
I had the car in work on Saturday on the ramp and found the next task and to be honest If any of you are thinking to do this kind of work
I would start at the top of the engine :frustrated: as oil has a way of finding its own path DOWN and this might have been the original leaks source but hey ho ! its all been a learning curve
This iphone pic is taken looking up from the gearbox towarard the tin wear at the rear of the engine
Look at that fantastic clean oil
This leak is coming from the bottom of the oil pressure sender unit and the crank case breather pipe area and is about £10 to fix
Thanks to Boxsey for these pics
I will take a load more when I start the strip down on Thursday
So to the next round
The car performed well for 600 miles+trip to Spa and with a re-tightening of a couple of minor fixtures all the bottom end is dry
I had the car in work on Saturday on the ramp and found the next task and to be honest If any of you are thinking to do this kind of work
I would start at the top of the engine :frustrated: as oil has a way of finding its own path DOWN and this might have been the original leaks source but hey ho ! its all been a learning curve
This iphone pic is taken looking up from the gearbox towarard the tin wear at the rear of the engine
Look at that fantastic clean oil
This leak is coming from the bottom of the oil pressure sender unit and the crank case breather pipe area and is about £10 to fix
Thanks to Boxsey for these pics
I will take a load more when I start the strip down on Thursday
#7
Drifting
You can replace the oil pressure sender by just removing the air-filter housing. Then mostly using your right arm. There's just two small bolt holding the sender as you see in the pic. You'll see waht you do from above with a lamp.
Thomas
Thomas
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#9
Burning Brakes
Storage is a killer for any car. Even if you don't drive your car in the winter, start it at least two times a month and let it get up to temperature.
Expect more leaks in the futures. There are gaskets in your car that are 20+ years old.
I had a couple of drips and replacing the majority of the old gaskets and hoses. My thread.
Expect more leaks in the futures. There are gaskets in your car that are 20+ years old.
I had a couple of drips and replacing the majority of the old gaskets and hoses. My thread.