Engine mounts?
I have a stupid question I am not too scared to ask. I have the under cladding, on being a larger than average man I will need to jack up car just to reach the fasteners that hold it on. I assume I must remove it to put on mounts. I can't block it and still lift motor for mount replacements. The motor mount DIY threads don't say to remove it, but I am assuming I should to jack motor.
I have a stupid question I am not too scared to ask. I have the under cladding, on being a larger than average man I will need to jack up car just to reach the fasteners that hold it on. I assume I must remove it to put on mounts. I can't block it and still lift motor for mount replacements. The motor mount DIY threads don't say to remove it, but I am assuming I should to jack motor.
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Didn't start the project yet. Being forced to take the trays off gives good opportunity to look at bottom of engine for first time.
I've had my car for over 6 years and I'm still confused my many of it's systems. I'm not gifted at this kind of work, but it's so enjoyable that I can't stop my desire to learn more every day at the University of Rennlist, Department of Air Cooled, 964 Program.
Ray,
If you don't mind, it would be interesting to hear your thoughts on how the car sounds and runs without the tray. Yes it's long been controversial as to whether it holds in heat and therefore should be removed or not. I definitely don't want to continue that argument here... I'm interested to know if there is a noticeable difference in volume level?
The engine cover had already been removed from my car when I bought so I have no idea as to how much quieter it would be without a tray...a fresh perspective would be nice. Plus, how much does that thing weigh?
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I've had my car for over 6 years and I'm still confused my many of it's systems. I'm not gifted at this kind of work, but it's so enjoyable that I can't stop my desire to learn more every day at the University of Rennlist, Department of Air Cooled, 964 Program.
Ray,
If you don't mind, it would be interesting to hear your thoughts on how the car sounds and runs without the tray. Yes it's long been controversial as to whether it holds in heat and therefore should be removed or not. I definitely don't want to continue that argument here... I'm interested to know if there is a noticeable difference in volume level?
The engine cover had already been removed from my car when I bought so I have no idea as to how much quieter it would be without a tray...a fresh perspective would be nice. Plus, how much does that thing weigh?
are they firmer as well?
I am trying to decide on whether to replace the ones I just took out with 993 engine mounts or WEVO blacks.
also, do you need to reinforce the engine carrier for either the 993 or WEVO blacks engine mounts?
Thanks in advance,
Steve
are they firmer as well?
I am trying to decide on whether to replace the ones I just took out with 993 engine mounts or WEVO blacks.
also, do you need to reinforce the engine carrier for either the 993 or WEVO blacks engine mounts?
Thanks in advance,
Steve
Mine were so bad that I could rotate the rubber. Now the motor is about an inch higher. You can see the difference in tailpipe.
Also, I could see where the brace was rubbing below. Good indicator of how low everything sat. I am happy with the mounts and may consider Wevo in future after I have some time to get to know how the should have behaved.
Thanks for all who helped me including the support I got yesterday after snapping the bolt while wrenching.
I need to get better pics sorry.
The engine cover had already been removed from my car when I bought so I have no idea as to how much quieter it would be without a tray...a fresh perspective would be nice. Plus, how much does that thing weigh?
Without rear under tray. In garage, door open.
4' behind car, deck lid open: 76.5
4' behind car deck lid closed: 70.1
Drivers seat, top down: 56.6
With rear under tray.
4' behind car, deck lid open: 72.5
4' behind car deck lid closed: 68.0
Drivers seat, top down: 56.2
Last edited by RayB_911; May 13, 2013 at 05:43 PM.
Last edited by RayB_911; May 13, 2013 at 12:39 AM.
This is the only Porsche I have driven. I did notice on my first test drive that going into first was challenge. PO thought it was his new clutch. It had only about 1000 miles on it. It was installed by local Prosche dealer. $$$
After I purchased it, I noticed I could not shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd. Also that getting into frist while deccelerating was getting difficult enough that my right arm was notidable sore. Was driving it a little harder than first test drive, could that be it.
I am an agressive driver and I drive machines hard as they are designed. I had decided that my shifting from 1st to 2nd was my driving skills since I haven't been driving stick every day anymore. It felt like I was letting out the clutch in two stages. I kept thinking "I have driven stick since I learned on a 1958 Ford pickup when I was 9 years old, BUT I must be better than this??".
Now it is smooth as silk. Well, sporty silk. What I thought was driver error was the motor moving around while I shifted and accelerated. I didn't understand how all the experience drivers commenting in threads could feel the motor that way. NOW I know. What I was feeling was not normal. Now it is such a pleasure to drive and I expect my arm to not get sore anymore.
hope this helps a little from a new driver.




