Vandit

The OEM spring plate use two eccentrics, 1 to adjust camber and 1 to adjust toe. The aftermarket plates use a tie-rod type assembly to adjust toe by changing the length of the spring plate and only reuse rearward eccentric to adjust camber.

Rephlex

I love this thread.

I had to buy a new nearside spring plate from Porsche when fettling the car. OUCH!

boxsey911

When I had a heating problem that I was trying to track down, I removed the control unit from the dash. It was a cool October day and the half hour drive was much too cold for comfort. I certainly wouldn't want to run with no heat at all.

Those that want to save weight fit a heater bypass tube in place of the rear blower. This provides some passive heat for the cabin but you still need the heat exchangers and those flapper boxes you mention for this to work. You also need to do a wiring bypass on the relay in the rear fuse box in order to have the cabin fans working (well documented on here now).

Regarding the crumbling flange, I also had a new one welded on like G60pops did. Easily the best solution in my experience.

alexjc4

^ what boxsey says

For anything but mid summer running in the UK I'd say heat was vital. Though if you were really determined, you can get heated vests for motorcycles that you plug into the cigarette lighter, they do gloves and boots too

Also, if you run without heat you need to block those holes up or you'll slowly gas yourself.

Also, if those rings are what I think they are, they are just rubber/silicone o-rings and are fairly cheap from porsche.

Also, if you have the boxes out you can free up the flappers, which ideally need to move with no resistance to make the heating/cooling system work properly.

Oh and I also had the exhaust flange issue, pretty cheap to get a new flange welded on, sadly mine was combined with a crack in the exhaust, which required removing the heat exchanger, which in turn required drilling out all the studs, which was rather pricey.

robt964

The rusted ring I'm referring too is defo metal. I haven't got the 'air boxes' out yet as I can work out how to detach the big hose that connects to the back of them as its buried in the closed bodywork :-S

alexjc4

Ah OK, it's not the bit I'm thinking of.

The boxes are just held on with two nuts the top one is tricky to get on but if you pock around with a 1/4inch drive ratchet and an extension you get it eventually.

There's a good pic here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-Porsche-9...9e38ef&vxp=mtr

The hoses are just held on with jubilee clips.

boxsey911

I'm lost too! but more pics of the flapper boxes that Alex and I thought you were talking about here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...hlight=flapper

robt964

Yep, thats the same thing I'm refering too. When I peer through the open end (where the hose coming up from the HE would connect) I can see the elbow joint of another hose that is attached to the otherside of the flappy box within the closed confines of the bodywork. I've already removed the two retaining bolts and the box is now loose, but will not move more than 10mm away due to the connected hose on the rear.

robt964

Take a look at the 6th pic down on the link boxsey posted. That is what I can see. At the back there is an adjuster screw that holds on the elbow behined it. I assume you must have to remove that before the box can be free'd. I've no idea how you get to it tho!

alexjc4

Oh that bit! The elbow that disappears into the chassis. That's separate from the flapper box box and stays in the chassis rail, the screw you can see holds the corrugated aluminium hose that runs down the inside of the sill onto the end of the elbow.

This link has some pics of the elbow out of the car but I don't know how you'd get it out, I tried and failed. (BTW this link has a elbow that is fitted to outer side of one of the boxes that may be Turbo specific or something because I don't recognize it)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-Porsche...59d728&vxp=mtr

robt964

Right, ok. I don't want to necessarily remove the elbow. In fact I'd prefer it to stay where it it. I'll take another look tonight to try and see why the elbow is coming away with the box. Its well an truely attached!

boxsey911

According to post #21 of the thread below, it's only the two bolts that secure the flapper box:

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...lapper+removal

Given what you've done so far, I'm sure you'll work out how to get them off.

robt964

Ignore me - I'm an idiot :-)
I was pulling from the collar that is part of the elbow so it was always going to come with the flappy box! In my defence it's so crudded up it looked like one piece.

robt964

ERP spring plates ordered - thanks Vandit
Superflex rear outboard bushes ordered - thanks Mark :-)

I've just made the now weekly call to my OPC to place the order of parts and was shocked at the price of new fuel lines. Basically they're 200quid EACH and I need both the feed and return! Thats alot of dosh for a length of pipe.

I've held off on those for the moment whilst I investigate alternatives. I recon you could get both done in aeroquip for the price of just one of those. Has anybody attempted this? I'll take both of them along to 'Think Automotive' (no affiliation - just a very happy customer) in Isleworth for them to guage cost feasibility considering the routing.

VR6-er

Get someone to make'em up

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/category/...el_Line,b.html
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/perfor...-hose-8mm-bore

http://www.linestogo.com/

http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod74...orsche-964_2_2
http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod74...e-96411059501/