964 Refurb
#226
Drifting
You can buy uniballs etc for small money and have a garage do they job to cut, weld and screw. I replaced every joint in my whole gear linkage last winter for less money than the golden rod alone. (I already had the RS-shifter).
Thomas
Thomas
#228
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Not much going on in the garage lately as I'm *STILL* waiting for various fibreglass tin-ware parts to arrive before I can reassemble the motor. Now I know I said I wasn't going to open up any part of the motor as its all bone dry BUT.. I was getting bored of waiting so decided I'd do a few of the jobs I was leaving for next year sometime. Rennline valve covers :-)
I've also cleaned the intake system from top to bottom
Eeesh terrible picture quality. Is there anything an iPhone is good at?
I've also cleaned the intake system from top to bottom
Eeesh terrible picture quality. Is there anything an iPhone is good at?
#232
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The machining of the covers is pretty good but having the top surfaces in 'silver' like I have is probably not the best option. They're anodized as apposed to painted but the silver tops are created by machine skimming the top off therefore leaving the bare aluminium exposed.
This won't be good in the long run and I'm surprised they havn't clear coated them or something similar. As a result, if I were to buy them again I'd opt for the plain black ones. At such time when they need to be removed I'll probably powder coat them black.
This won't be good in the long run and I'm surprised they havn't clear coated them or something similar. As a result, if I were to buy them again I'd opt for the plain black ones. At such time when they need to be removed I'll probably powder coat them black.
#233
I sourced a good grade alloy steel UJ for £50 that was drilled for 5/8 one end and 1/2 the other. The fit onto the gearbox was a bit too tight to start with but a bit of polishing with emery paper saw them slot together.
I recon I can just chop the old joint off and weld the new one on.
I recon I can just chop the old joint off and weld the new one on.
Do you know what the measurements are for the gearbox shaft, was it the 1/2 or 5/8 end? Also what size is the square bit you cut off? I think I've found a supplier of UJ's with square female to round female.
#234
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The gear shifter stub protruding from the end of the gearbox is 16mm OD. The UJ I bought was drilled for 5/8 so about 0.125 mm too small.
Not sure about the size of the square end. I unfortunately binned it once I'd cut it off so cannot now check either.
Not sure about the size of the square end. I unfortunately binned it once I'd cut it off so cannot now check either.
#236
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The engine is now all back together Sorry about the pi$$ poor quality photos. I promise I'll start using a proper a proper camera when I start reassembling the car.
All clean, shiney and recoated with lots and lots of new (external) components. Again, no need to break the motor since it's bone dry and had a full splitcase rebuild 2 years back.
Only let down now by the orrible exhaust manifold. (next years job along with LW flywheel)
Really struggling with the decision to go with the single pulley conversion or not. Jury still out as I should get it running before changing anything more!
Gearbox casing came up looking nice. Just the fibre-glass tinware to go on when it arrives.
The Recaro PP (abe) seats and mounts have arrive. Wow - they're super nice and comfy and great for watching the tele whilst sat in them
Also have the AppBiz door panels, Light weight carpet set, rennline handbrake and new plastics for the centre console (handbrake moulding + bucket replacing the cassette holder), rubber door sill kick plates, door sill carpet hold-downs, 993 rear quarter window seals etc etc etc and boxes of other refurbed parts. The spare room is no longer a spare room!
Work is about to grind to a halt tho as I'm rapidly running out of car related things to do!
Come on Lemass, get ya' finger out
@VR6-er
Sorry missed your comment before. The tube is 20mm OD
All clean, shiney and recoated with lots and lots of new (external) components. Again, no need to break the motor since it's bone dry and had a full splitcase rebuild 2 years back.
Only let down now by the orrible exhaust manifold. (next years job along with LW flywheel)
Really struggling with the decision to go with the single pulley conversion or not. Jury still out as I should get it running before changing anything more!
Gearbox casing came up looking nice. Just the fibre-glass tinware to go on when it arrives.
The Recaro PP (abe) seats and mounts have arrive. Wow - they're super nice and comfy and great for watching the tele whilst sat in them
Also have the AppBiz door panels, Light weight carpet set, rennline handbrake and new plastics for the centre console (handbrake moulding + bucket replacing the cassette holder), rubber door sill kick plates, door sill carpet hold-downs, 993 rear quarter window seals etc etc etc and boxes of other refurbed parts. The spare room is no longer a spare room!
Work is about to grind to a halt tho as I'm rapidly running out of car related things to do!
Come on Lemass, get ya' finger out
@VR6-er
Sorry missed your comment before. The tube is 20mm OD
#237
Three Wheelin'
Come on Lemass, get you finger out, you're holding our entertainment and Robs getting bored! I'll have to drop my car off to him to do a few jobs, just to keep him busy!
Second thought, take your time!
Second thought, take your time!
#238
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
You may have seen this thread here where I was trying to get the porsche seat-belts to fit better when used with the popular choice of southbound runners and Recaro Pole Position seats.
Firstly the seat-belt buckle plate wouldn't sit flush with the mounting boss, and secondly the rather ridged design of the buckle meant it wouldn't sit nicely in the cut-out of the seat. It would be pressed up against the seat so hard, preventing the release button from operating cleanly. Think I've got it sorted now
Here's the parts. The 'missing link' to get this working properly was a spacer that fits snugly in the fastening hole of the buckle plate. So i had some made up. This is simply a 16mm OD x 11mm ID x 6mm thick spacer (seen in the middle).
To give the harness release a tiny bit more clearance against the inside of the seat I removed the plastic sheath and carefully made a bend of a few degrees about 25mm from the base of the head.
This is what the buckle plate now looks like when its all done up.
Difficult to see in this image but the buckle head has 2-3mm clearance so the release button no longer fouls the inside of the seat. And nope, it doesn't stick into the side of our hip either. Its just high enough.
All that remains is to recover the now exposed part of the seat-belt (probably with some leather style vinyl) and refit the original plastic boots that cover the buckle plate.
Job jobbed
Firstly the seat-belt buckle plate wouldn't sit flush with the mounting boss, and secondly the rather ridged design of the buckle meant it wouldn't sit nicely in the cut-out of the seat. It would be pressed up against the seat so hard, preventing the release button from operating cleanly. Think I've got it sorted now
Here's the parts. The 'missing link' to get this working properly was a spacer that fits snugly in the fastening hole of the buckle plate. So i had some made up. This is simply a 16mm OD x 11mm ID x 6mm thick spacer (seen in the middle).
To give the harness release a tiny bit more clearance against the inside of the seat I removed the plastic sheath and carefully made a bend of a few degrees about 25mm from the base of the head.
This is what the buckle plate now looks like when its all done up.
Difficult to see in this image but the buckle head has 2-3mm clearance so the release button no longer fouls the inside of the seat. And nope, it doesn't stick into the side of our hip either. Its just high enough.
All that remains is to recover the now exposed part of the seat-belt (probably with some leather style vinyl) and refit the original plastic boots that cover the buckle plate.
Job jobbed
#240
Three Wheelin'