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A photo journal of my recently completed big project

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Old 04-11-2012, 05:42 PM
  #31  
Porsche964FP
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Great thread - thanks for sharing!
Old 04-11-2012, 09:11 PM
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Marc Shaw
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Cool to see all the progress!

Marc
Old 04-11-2012, 09:41 PM
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+1 Impressive
Old 04-11-2012, 10:52 PM
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Enso
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Thanks for the post & pics

Glenn
Old 04-12-2012, 10:41 AM
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samajam
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Very impressive, I know what I will be doing in Dec/Jan...def marking this post...thanks
Old 04-13-2012, 09:41 PM
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AOW162435
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Very nice!


Andreas
Old 04-13-2012, 10:20 PM
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PNine64
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Great Job!! Things came together very nicely.
Old 04-13-2012, 11:31 PM
  #38  
Laker
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Outstanding job with the work and documenting it all. I really enjoyed this thread.
Old 04-14-2012, 11:39 AM
  #39  
Vandit
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I just want to clarify that in some of the pictures where i'm working on the left side timing chain cover, tensioner, and crossover, I have the distributor caps removed. You do not need to remove the distributor and/or distributor caps to work on these areas. The only reason why I have the distributor caps removed is because I had also done the valve adjustment, so I removed the caps to find TDC and did not reinstall them prior to wrenching on the timing chain area.
Old 04-14-2012, 01:37 PM
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Marc Shaw
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Makes sense but can't you get TDC from the crank pulley?

Marc
Old 04-14-2012, 02:27 PM
  #41  
Vandit
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Originally Posted by Marc Shaw
Makes sense but can't you get TDC from the crank pulley?
Per RicardoD's valve adjustment thread, the Z1 mark on the crank is TDC for cylinder #1 and cylinder #4. You need to align the marks on the distributor rotor to be sure you're on TDC for #1.

RicardoD's thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...or-method.html

Specifically this post
https://rennlist.com/forums/9076077-post24.html
Old 04-14-2012, 02:47 PM
  #42  
Marc Shaw
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Originally Posted by Vandit
Per RicardoD's valve adjustment thread, the Z1 mark on the crank is TDC for cylinder #1 and cylinder #4. You need to align the marks on the distributor rotor to be sure you're on TDC for #1.

RicardoD's thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...or-method.html

Specifically this post
https://rennlist.com/forums/9076077-post24.html
Thanks - I did not know that.

Marc
Old 07-10-2012, 03:12 AM
  #43  
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Wow, Vandit, just catching up on this thread. It is a fantastic resource for me. I need to do all the work covered in this thread on my C2. It should hopefully be a bit easier as I just dropped the engine.

What's the secret to removing the crank pulley? I keep reading about a special tool. I don't want to screw that up.

Last edited by RicardoD; 07-10-2012 at 01:58 PM. Reason: grammar
Old 07-10-2012, 08:37 AM
  #44  
BigMikeATL
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Nice work and thanks for the write up.

What did the entire project run you? It's probably a project I'll need to do down the road.
Old 07-10-2012, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RicardoD
What's the secret to removing the crank pulley? I keep reading about a special tool. I don't want to screw that up.
I ended up using a big Dewalt electric impact wrench to remove and reinstall the pulley bolt. I'm not too proud about it, but it all worked out in the end.

Originally Posted by BigMikeATL
What did the entire project run you? It's probably a project I'll need to do down the road.
Maybe $800 in random gaskets, tools, and parts including the used engine cooling fan, new fan bearing, slave cylinder, power bleeder, etc., $137 to get the alternator rebuilt locally, $87 for the Rennline engine carrier reinforcement piece, $50 to get the reinforcement TIG welded to the OEM carrier, $350 in powder coating services, $150 for the Rennspeed RS center section, $600 in paint & body for the whole rear bumper (and some RS ducts I haven't installed yet), and a whole bunch of sweat equity on my part w/ the help of RL and PP forums.

Lots of not-so-big expenses that add up when you hit that "=SUM" function on the "964 Receipts.xlsx" Excel workbook.


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