'Clicking' engine sound - trouble.
04-04-2012, 08:52 AM
#46
Drifting
Thread Starter
04-04-2012, 10:03 AM
#48
Burning Brakes
Don't worry....he's keeping Betty!
04-04-2012, 10:07 AM
#49
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: the land of taxes (uk)
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Save you car Frank, I'd miss you on here, your car is a cracker and I hope it's only a small glitch but think of the passion not the money and you could go in lots of directions now with the tuning.I think with your video making skills you'll soon be flush again. Good luck I hope it's not terminal only head studs. Gaz
04-04-2012, 02:32 PM
#50
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2010
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Frank -just saw this mate. Fingers crossed its a minor issue that GT One can resolve for you. Try to hang onto it too. I think you will look back in a few years and be happy you did.
04-04-2012, 09:00 PM
#52
Frank, so sorry to here this after all the hard work & money you have put in to your 64....
The reason I went the 993/ecu option is I had the engine before I got the car and it had 42,000 Miles on it so thought it was worth buying and then 3 yrs later it was in the car I have now & the origanal engine in the car needed a full rebuild...cams/& lots more prob.....
You could prob do this for £ 5/6,000 ish if you can find a good lump to transplant.
Try your best to keep it and don't sell if you poss can as like me you have invested far to much money in it to let it go now...
I think I've done 10/12 k so far not including the car on engine/ interior/ suspension/ brakes/ trims/ & all sorts and still going to get my perfect 964.
If money's tight what about putting it away for a bit and buying a cheap car to run about in while you save up???
I'm sure lot of scenarios have gone round in your head at the mo but it's a 964 and theres a lot more crap 964's out there than good cars like yours so do try to keep it and good luck with it...
Just think if you had 996 it would defo be a scrapper!!
The reason I went the 993/ecu option is I had the engine before I got the car and it had 42,000 Miles on it so thought it was worth buying and then 3 yrs later it was in the car I have now & the origanal engine in the car needed a full rebuild...cams/& lots more prob.....
You could prob do this for £ 5/6,000 ish if you can find a good lump to transplant.
Try your best to keep it and don't sell if you poss can as like me you have invested far to much money in it to let it go now...
I think I've done 10/12 k so far not including the car on engine/ interior/ suspension/ brakes/ trims/ & all sorts and still going to get my perfect 964.
If money's tight what about putting it away for a bit and buying a cheap car to run about in while you save up???
I'm sure lot of scenarios have gone round in your head at the mo but it's a 964 and theres a lot more crap 964's out there than good cars like yours so do try to keep it and good luck with it...
Just think if you had 996 it would defo be a scrapper!!
04-05-2012, 11:57 AM
#56
Drifting
Thread Starter
Save you car Frank, I'd miss you on here, your car is a cracker and I hope it's only a small glitch but think of the passion not the money and you could go in lots of directions now with the tuning.I think with your video making skills you'll soon be flush again. Good luck I hope it's not terminal only head studs. Gaz
Frank, so sorry to here this after all the hard work & money you have put in to your 64....
The reason I went the 993/ecu option is I had the engine before I got the car and it had 42,000 Miles on it so thought it was worth buying and then 3 yrs later it was in the car I have now & the origanal engine in the car needed a full rebuild...cams/& lots more prob.....
You could prob do this for £ 5/6,000 ish if you can find a good lump to transplant.
Try your best to keep it and don't sell if you poss can as like me you have invested far to much money in it to let it go now...
I think I've done 10/12 k so far not including the car on engine/ interior/ suspension/ brakes/ trims/ & all sorts and still going to get my perfect 964.
If money's tight what about putting it away for a bit and buying a cheap car to run about in while you save up???
I'm sure lot of scenarios have gone round in your head at the mo but it's a 964 and theres a lot more crap 964's out there than good cars like yours so do try to keep it and good luck with it...
Just think if you had 996 it would defo be a scrapper!!
The reason I went the 993/ecu option is I had the engine before I got the car and it had 42,000 Miles on it so thought it was worth buying and then 3 yrs later it was in the car I have now & the origanal engine in the car needed a full rebuild...cams/& lots more prob.....
You could prob do this for £ 5/6,000 ish if you can find a good lump to transplant.
Try your best to keep it and don't sell if you poss can as like me you have invested far to much money in it to let it go now...
I think I've done 10/12 k so far not including the car on engine/ interior/ suspension/ brakes/ trims/ & all sorts and still going to get my perfect 964.
If money's tight what about putting it away for a bit and buying a cheap car to run about in while you save up???
I'm sure lot of scenarios have gone round in your head at the mo but it's a 964 and theres a lot more crap 964's out there than good cars like yours so do try to keep it and good luck with it...
Just think if you had 996 it would defo be a scrapper!!
Hi Andy, no not yet. GTOne were pretty busy when I dropped the car off - with Easter weekend and all it'll probs be at the end of next week that I get the results. So nervous.
04-05-2012, 01:11 PM
#57
Advanced
POTENTIAL NEW TYPE OF ANALYSIS
Some good ideas but I tried a different route: you gave evidence and I tried to use it.
I counted the ticking and to see how it relates to the engine speed. My calcualtions indicate possibly a valve issue but you try this out:
1. Was the engine warm or cold, specifically what was it idling at then i.e idling at 750 rpm or 1200 rpm etc.
2. Rough click count is approx 30-35 clicks in 5 seconds, or approx 360-420 clicks per minute whilst the engine is idling. Possibly 1/3 or 1/2 engine speed.
However my count was brief and prone to errors.... I suggest you re-run : important you check the video clip runs at real time speed in order to prove your count of clicks per minute is accurate or do it next to the engine with an observer whilst watching a second hand etc. Then you have a more accurate click count relative to engine crank rpm.
3. I think you said it increases as the engine speed increases.... I know the bottom end is supposed to be bullet proof, but would a bearing sound like that in terms of both noise and of consistency, especially if it is going at only 1/3 or 1/2 of the engine crank speed?
Re-do the calculation of clicks to engine speed to see what the ratio is, then find out what turns at that speed relative to the engine e.g. cams, valves, bearings, (not the distributor I think)?
Pete and Craig know air-cooled very well, but I hope this method is more analytical and contradicts them, unless the bearing only clicks once every 2 to 3 times the crank turns!
Determine the possible areas then listen to those areas (stethoscope was mentioned somewhere.to locate it more closely.
Just a valve I hope!
Some good ideas but I tried a different route: you gave evidence and I tried to use it.
I counted the ticking and to see how it relates to the engine speed. My calcualtions indicate possibly a valve issue but you try this out:
1. Was the engine warm or cold, specifically what was it idling at then i.e idling at 750 rpm or 1200 rpm etc.
2. Rough click count is approx 30-35 clicks in 5 seconds, or approx 360-420 clicks per minute whilst the engine is idling. Possibly 1/3 or 1/2 engine speed.
However my count was brief and prone to errors.... I suggest you re-run : important you check the video clip runs at real time speed in order to prove your count of clicks per minute is accurate or do it next to the engine with an observer whilst watching a second hand etc. Then you have a more accurate click count relative to engine crank rpm.
3. I think you said it increases as the engine speed increases.... I know the bottom end is supposed to be bullet proof, but would a bearing sound like that in terms of both noise and of consistency, especially if it is going at only 1/3 or 1/2 of the engine crank speed?
Re-do the calculation of clicks to engine speed to see what the ratio is, then find out what turns at that speed relative to the engine e.g. cams, valves, bearings, (not the distributor I think)?
Pete and Craig know air-cooled very well, but I hope this method is more analytical and contradicts them, unless the bearing only clicks once every 2 to 3 times the crank turns!
Determine the possible areas then listen to those areas (stethoscope was mentioned somewhere.to locate it more closely.
Just a valve I hope!
Last edited by Shaun Leahy; 04-05-2012 at 01:52 PM.
04-05-2012, 02:43 PM
#58
Rennlist Member
Frank, Do you run a Cup pipe / secondary muffler set up?
If yes make shure your secondary muffler is not split/cracked on the side (opposite of R Rear wheel side)... I had a very similar sound and thought something internal happened when I found my answer... not to give you any false hope but check just in case...
If yes make shure your secondary muffler is not split/cracked on the side (opposite of R Rear wheel side)... I had a very similar sound and thought something internal happened when I found my answer... not to give you any false hope but check just in case...
