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Slave cylinder hose leak, Softline above transaxle is wet/leaking

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Old 03-13-2012, 01:45 PM
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Vandit
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Default Slave cylinder hose leak, Softline above transaxle is wet/leaking

I spent some time under my car this weekend scrubbing years of grime and cosmoline off the bottom of the motor and transaxle. While doing so, I noticed a line above the transaxle, visible when looking up from under the car on the left side of the transaxle, was pretty wet.

The line just kinda hangs up in that area there. I should have snapped a pic.

Any idea what this line is for?

Last edited by Vandit; 03-16-2012 at 12:45 AM. Reason: More descriptive title
Old 03-13-2012, 01:49 PM
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Marc Shaw
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It is one of these visible at the top left, correct?

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Old 03-13-2012, 02:02 PM
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Vandit
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Yes, I believe so. The orientation looks a bit different, but I was looking at it while laying on my back. The construction is the same (hose over hose).
Old 03-13-2012, 02:32 PM
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Ken D
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I've indicated the hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:37 PM
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I'll get back under there tonight and snap a pic.
Old 03-13-2012, 03:29 PM
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Vandit
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This right here looks like my issue.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...king-line.html

What do you guys think? Tough job to do? The line was wet, wetter, than what's pictured in that PP thread. Is it likely to fail enough to leave me stranded (unable to operate clutch)?
Old 03-13-2012, 04:23 PM
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Rocket Rob
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That is the clutch slave. Its not too hard to replace. Its fiddly but doable. Could it leave you stranded? Yes. I would replace the clutch slave cylinder too while you are replacing the hose. Having a power bleeder also helps bleed the clutch once you have the parts swapped out. I use a Motiv Power Bleeder (no affiliations).
Old 03-13-2012, 07:16 PM
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Crystal Cranks
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Can this job (line and slave cylinder) be done without lowering the transaxle, any tips.
Old 03-13-2012, 07:37 PM
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Rocket Rob
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Yes, you can do it without lowering the engine/transmission. I would suggest start by jacking up the rear of the car and placing it on jack stands. Then remove the left side rear wheel. You will want to remove the old clutch slave. Its attached to the transmission via two 8mm studs. You will need to remove two 13mm nuts. Once you have that in hand, you can loosen the hose from the hard line. Be ready to catch brake fluid. The fluid will dribble out. Next attach the new hose and then quickly attach the new slave cylinder. This will stop the dribbling. Place some grease on the end of the slave where it presses on the throwout arm. Now the tricky part. You have to maneuver the slave back into position, press it into the tranny. You will feel some resistance. You are compressing a spring slightly. I normally press the cylinder onto the studs and then hold it with one hand while I start a nut on one of the studs. Once you have one nut, you can let go of the cylinder. I then snug up that nut with a wrench, then put on the second nut. Then tighten all hose and nuts. You then have to bleed the clutch slave. A pressure bleeder is ideal for this.

Be sure not to twist or kink your flexible hose as you assemble it.

I hope this helps.
Old 03-13-2012, 08:10 PM
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elbeee964
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True, above. (And Lord knows that a search will find many the picture-enriched thread on changing out slave & hose.)

Some have said their experience was helped by lowering the engine/tranny slightly. I wouldn't know, as the two times I've done this, I didn't find that necessary.

I DO know I was greatly aided by temporarily removing the wire-reinforced vent duct that snakes around between left wheel and slave. Gives clearer sight lines and lessens the simian arm gymnastics.

Have fun, and good luck, sir.
Old 03-14-2012, 12:28 PM
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Robs instructions are very good. This is definitely doable without lowering the engine/transmission, though if your experience is like mine you will wish you had several additional elbows.

Make sure you grease the new part well, or you may find it squeaks when the clutch is depressed.
Old 03-14-2012, 03:35 PM
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Alright, well I have my new FTE slave cylinder and hose, a liter of ATE 200, and a Motiv Power Bleeder all in hand. Now I just need to install everything and bleed the hydraulic system.
Old 03-16-2012, 12:49 AM
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Alright, I just wrapped up on installing the new slave cylinder and new hose. My old slave and hose were beat!

The most difficult part was loosening the 13mm nuts holding the slave. They were pretty tight and the area is so confined, it makes it difficult to put leverage on the spanners.

Luckily the 19mm fitting to the 14mm hardline on the unibody did not give me any drama.

The advice you guys gave me, and the discussion in this thread were very helpful.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...-save-you.html


I'll bleed the system tomorrow.

My car is missing the rubber/plastic cover for the slave cylinder piston visibility opening on the transaxle. What's the part number for this item?
Old 03-16-2012, 01:03 AM
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Vandit
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Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
Be sure not to twist or kink your flexible hose as you assemble it.
Mine ended up a bit twisted.

It's not twisted to the point it is kinking or anything that looks like it'll cause a failure of the hose to flow fluid, but it definitely is not totally lax.

There really doesn't seem like much I can do about it. I tightened the fitting on the slave prior to installation, then I threaded the whole assembly onto the fitting on the car prior to installing the slave on the transaxle.


Last edited by Vandit; 03-16-2012 at 01:25 AM.
Old 03-16-2012, 01:33 AM
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You can loosen the hose on the tunnel-end, and that will allows you to rotate the hose to a more natural position before retightening


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