CBR786

Hello all happy holidays just wanted some one more knowledgeable to chime in. I am trying to chase down a small oil leak. Presents itself on the sum drain plug. Small drips about one tea spoon worth of oil on the cardboard sheet under car. Under tray removed. The engine underneath is all dry on the Cat side of the sump all the way to the half. On the other half which is final muffler side of engine the crank case is lined with oil. I changed out all engine cover seals top & bottom also did cam seal timing chain covers as well. I am now doing the oil sender. My question is this I have stripped down the area to get to the oil sender and it looks all bone dry? Is The plastic engine cover causing me not to see the base of the oil sender ? As I have not pulled it yet ?. Also on undoing the plenuim chamber the lower rubber circle meeting the throttle housing dripped out a half a tea spoon of oil? Which trickled down and sat by the last intake slot near the oil sender. I am thinking of wether or not to pull sender and change seal or not ?

ThomasC2

The sender is just two bolt, pull it straight up and replace the O-ring/seal. Very easy to do so just do it.
I removed the airbox and put my right arm in from the right hand side to reach it.

Thomas

Henrik964

Thomas,

I´about to do this, i took a look and figured I need to get the intake away and few more things. I do have ac on that car so that makes things a bit more tight. You had no probs droppings things into the engine with You easy way?

ThomasC2

No, even with the AC compressor you should manage to do it by just removing the airbox. It' s not the best working position though! But get your arm in there from the right with a 10 mm wrench, and then look from above down through the intake to see what your right arm is doing. And use a light from the side so you see your hand.

Thomas

CBR786

Removing intake chamber is not difficult just got to be methodical in approach also with it out it allows you to do some cleaning as well while you are in Their. Also if you do not get the area around the oil sender extra clean you risk getting debris and dirt into the engine. Working blind or hindered with things in your way and working awkward angles is not the best route for everyone only the super confidant. My oil sender is not leaking or faulty but I an gonna pull it and change seal anyhow as I have already did the hardwork of gaining access. I noticed one of my rockers on that side was not nibbed up so tightened the 10mm nuts hoping that might cure my leak

altarchsa

The sender screws into the housing and has a crush washer type seal. The washer is smaller than the threaded portion so that it remains on the sender. The sender housing is the part descrbed by Thomas.

I would question whether the sender is the culprit if you don't see any oil. I think they usually leak around the crimped part of the cannister, although you could get leaks at the washer or housing o-ring. There is enough open area around the housing that you would see oil if it's leaking.

If you replace the sender with an aftermarket part, be sure to check the mounting of the tabs for the connectors as some aftermarket senders have the small and large tabs reversed. Check the stamped labels and corresponding tab sizes on your removed part to confirm the correct placement of tab sizes on the replacement part.

Babalouie

If it'll help to visualise what you need to do, here's what mine looked like:


This is with the engine out, looking at it from the clutch-side. Mine had a leaky o-ring seal.

CBR786

Pulled the sender and have ordered the o ring. The sender was very hard to get out it was jammed hard in the engine had to tap it quite hard with a rubber mallet which resulted in the sender coming loose but not the housing. It was like it was glued down. It eventually came out the old black rubber ring looked in good health it was not flattened or perished etc. I will change it now. The A/c bracket was very hard to remove as well. I loosened my A/c compressor to try to get more play in the bracket it was very hard might grind down some of the extra metal to make this easier to slip in on return.