Wheel arch cleanup, nasty to nice
11-07-2011, 01:00 AM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Wheel arch cleanup, nasty to nice
I'm not sure how all your cars stand, but I felt like my car is extremely dirty underneath. It's all coated in a thick layer of grease and grime. I really gets on my nerves, so I decided to tackle it by first doing the wheel arches. I did this one wheel well at a time, as time permitted.
20 yrs worth of crap.
Clean spot from where I had previously tested to see if if all that grime was removable.
These don't look like bare aluminum
I basically hit it w/ degreaser, lots of scrubbing from various stiff nylon brushes, and lots of hosing down. The driveway was a mess afterwards, as if I had done an oil change w/o a pan.
There's Grand Prix White paint under there!
Pass side. Way less stuff going on in here, but also very dirty.
This bracket is bent from someone hitting the car in the rear at some point in the past. It is throwing off the fitment of the bumper piece and quarter panel. I need to straighten it out and hopefully it'll put stuff back in line.
I plan on doing the engine carrier reinforcement sometime early next year (w/ the rest of the suspension hopefully), so I plan on removing the engine tin to get blasted and powdercoated.
It cleaned up better than the other side.
On to the front end.
Looks like I got a bit of a rubbing issue. I guess my car wasn't originally equipped w/ 17"s and whoever installed the 17"s didn't update the steering stops appropriately.
Pass side.
Before
After
Driver's side
Cleaning in process
After
Yea, my struts look like total ***. They handle like it too. See my autocross thread *here*.
What should I do about those areas with tire rubbing down to the metal? How should I treat those areas to prevent corrosion and repaint? Also, what parts do I need to prevent it from happening? I'll be tearing into the suspension early next year, hopefully, so I can fix that up then.
20 yrs worth of crap.
Clean spot from where I had previously tested to see if if all that grime was removable.
These don't look like bare aluminum
I basically hit it w/ degreaser, lots of scrubbing from various stiff nylon brushes, and lots of hosing down. The driveway was a mess afterwards, as if I had done an oil change w/o a pan.
There's Grand Prix White paint under there!
Pass side. Way less stuff going on in here, but also very dirty.
This bracket is bent from someone hitting the car in the rear at some point in the past. It is throwing off the fitment of the bumper piece and quarter panel. I need to straighten it out and hopefully it'll put stuff back in line.
I plan on doing the engine carrier reinforcement sometime early next year (w/ the rest of the suspension hopefully), so I plan on removing the engine tin to get blasted and powdercoated.
It cleaned up better than the other side.
On to the front end.
Looks like I got a bit of a rubbing issue. I guess my car wasn't originally equipped w/ 17"s and whoever installed the 17"s didn't update the steering stops appropriately.
Pass side.
Before
After
Driver's side
Cleaning in process
After
Yea, my struts look like total ***. They handle like it too. See my autocross thread *here*.
What should I do about those areas with tire rubbing down to the metal? How should I treat those areas to prevent corrosion and repaint? Also, what parts do I need to prevent it from happening? I'll be tearing into the suspension early next year, hopefully, so I can fix that up then.
11-07-2011, 05:17 AM
#4
Good work what did you use ? Thinners ? Degreaser, or scrubbing brush lots of rags lol I got to tackle this one through the winter while it is put away. Another item to add to the list.
11-07-2011, 06:27 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
After looks way better... 
Is there any benefit next to the visual enjoyment of a clean car? Just wondering if it is worth it on my daily driver or if just wrinsing it down is enough.
Is there any benefit next to the visual enjoyment of a clean car? Just wondering if it is worth it on my daily driver or if just wrinsing it down is enough.
11-07-2011, 08:46 AM
#6
Drifting
Looking good! 
I used "Purple Power" and hot water from a garden hose hooked up to a basement utility sink. White is the toughest color to come clean. That brown stuff in the upper reaches is cosmoline and was applied by the factory for rust prevention.
I used "Purple Power" and hot water from a garden hose hooked up to a basement utility sink. White is the toughest color to come clean. That brown stuff in the upper reaches is cosmoline and was applied by the factory for rust prevention.
11-07-2011, 09:07 AM
#7
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I used ZEP degreaser (diluted, 50% water) in a spray bottle, a water spray bottle, various stiff bristle plastic/nylon brushes, and a garden hose. It probably took me about 45min-1hr per corner. The rear taking the longest. Lots of spray, scrub, rinse, check where I missed, and try again.
The degreaser is available at Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
I figured that brown stuff was cosmoline. I tried not to disturb it too much.
As for benefits... it'll probably make it easier to spot any leaks in the oil tank area. I've driven the car a few hundred miles since I cleaned up that area and it looks pretty dry up there. Someone told me they would have left it all greasy since it might act as a homebrew corrosion prevention. I can see that, but I don't plan on driving my car around in salt or even rain, so it wasn't really a concern for me. I just like knowing it's clean.
Any ideas on treatment and repair for those areas where the front tire has rubbed through the paint?
The degreaser is available at Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
I figured that brown stuff was cosmoline. I tried not to disturb it too much.
As for benefits... it'll probably make it easier to spot any leaks in the oil tank area. I've driven the car a few hundred miles since I cleaned up that area and it looks pretty dry up there. Someone told me they would have left it all greasy since it might act as a homebrew corrosion prevention. I can see that, but I don't plan on driving my car around in salt or even rain, so it wasn't really a concern for me. I just like knowing it's clean.
Any ideas on treatment and repair for those areas where the front tire has rubbed through the paint?
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11-07-2011, 09:13 AM
#8
Drifting
11-07-2011, 01:45 PM
#10
Good job, well-worth it IMHO:
I run Cup IIs with 225/45ZR17 Michelin PS2s upfront on my '90 C2. Changed the 6mm steering spacers to 10mm, no rub.
I chose Bilstein HDs and H&R reds to lower the car 35mm at all four corners and improve autoX handling:
I run Cup IIs with 225/45ZR17 Michelin PS2s upfront on my '90 C2. Changed the 6mm steering spacers to 10mm, no rub.
I chose Bilstein HDs and H&R reds to lower the car 35mm at all four corners and improve autoX handling:
Last edited by slips2; 11-07-2011 at 02:27 PM.
11-07-2011, 05:40 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
That's inspiration Vandit!
Fortunately Slate Grey and grime look very similar whenever I'm in there...
It's on my to do list when I upgrade my suspension.
Fortunately Slate Grey and grime look very similar whenever I'm in there...
It's on my to do list when I upgrade my suspension.
11-08-2011, 03:43 PM
#15
For you guys who may be looking to do this if you live in an area where salt is used in the winters, the brown coating over the paint is similar to cosmoline.
It is probably DINOL / Dinitrol under body wax. They also make cavity wax corrosion prevention. There are many different types but the original coating is a brown colour rather than the more common black.
Although the clean paint looks great, Porsche treated it for a reason.
It is probably DINOL / Dinitrol under body wax. They also make cavity wax corrosion prevention. There are many different types but the original coating is a brown colour rather than the more common black.
Although the clean paint looks great, Porsche treated it for a reason.
