So I just replaced the belt in my distributor and noticed that I do not have the 'Official' distributor vent kit. I have a hose that comes out of the bottom of the primary distributor but it leads to nowhere. It is essentially a 16" piece of black tubing (not the clear surgical tubing) that is snaked backed into the front of the car and attaches to nothing. Technically the distributor is vented but it is not connected to the heater pipe of T-connected into the taillight vent tube.

Is this OK or should I lay out the $14 bucks to get the official kit?

 

Mike, the new "official, Weiner approved" paradigm requires the use of two kits.

Each dizzy should have a vent bung and these should be fed via a tube from the fan plate (or heater blower) before the hose terminates at the rear light valence.

See the current thread here "put in some work".

 

Must respectfully disagree. If you have both distributors plumbed to the air supply you'll get no flow as there will be no pressure differential. No flow means that ozone can build up in there and you'll fail your belt. There must be a means for air escape- the pressurized air from the fan flows in, through the distributor bodies, and then out.

Here's what Steve W. actually said: "The principle here is for pressurized air from the heater duct gets plumbed into one side of the distributor and the other side gets connected to the LR tail light assembly. This assures a path for cool air to circulate inside the unit and evacuate the ozone gas buildup that attacks the rubber belt. "

Steve's proposed tube routing is more like this: Air tube-->Dist1; Dist2-->tail lamp housing.

 

That is absolutely correct...I suffer from an acute inability to relay even the simplest technical phrases to others.

Despite the fact that I do this profesionally!!! Man, I suck...thanks for the catch.

 

That makes a lot of sense. I will order the Vent Kit. Does anyone know where I can source the t-connector to connect the 2-disty output tube to the tailight vent tube?

 

Mike, as I understand it, there is no need for a T-connector (or second hole in the blower tube for that matter).

Black Blower Tube ----> Rubber hose ----> Distributor one | Distributor two ----> Rubber hose ---> Tail lens.

 

That is way more elegant than I envisioned! Thank you very much,

 

well this hack job picture certainly isn't elegant, but hopefully gets Steve W's concept across.

 

Got it! Now onto the procedural. I always have a heck of a time reinstalling the blower pipe. It is a strange shape with precise bends. What I normally do is slide back the rubber connector with the 2 hose clamps back onto the pipe itself and then align the pipe and slide the rubber connector back onto the blower motor.

Is that how its done or is there a better way?

 

That's how its done.

 

Does it matter which distributor gets the incoming air and which gets the outgoing air..? As long as there is air flow you're good - right?

 

When I researched it I found that ozone is heavier than air, so I plumbed the inflow into the higher housing so that gravity would be helping out.

 

Prior to doppelbunging, one must also inspect both dizzies for rotor direction, as the turbulence created by the rotor disrupts air flow.

As these are hand-assembled cars, some rotors spin clockwise, others counter-clockwise and no guarantees can be made that both dizzies spin the same direction.

 

Also, one rotor may be more aerodynamic than the other, so one side may suck more than the other may blow, and so choice of inlet dizzy for the DoppelBung would be quite critical, if you're to optimise the airflow characteristics and minimise pumping losses.

 

Fritz & Hans on the Porsche assembly line had no part to play in determining distributor rotation. Every 964 and 993 duel distributor ever made has rotor arms which spin clockwise when viewed from above.