Alternative oil cooler ceramic resistor replacement procedure
01-24-2011, 01:38 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Alternative oil cooler ceramic resistor replacement procedure
So as I was tinkering/adjusting the low-tone horn, I noticed the oil cooler ballast resistor on top of the oil cooler. Replacing it was on my to-do list since my car is totally original. I've read lots of threads about what a PITA it is to replace, and involves lowering the oil cooler after removing the headlight to get at a bolt. I was able to get my hand on the resistor by reaching from behind with the front mud cover removed. I was expecting the same 4mm allen screw to be used as the A/C resistor, but was disheartened when (using a mirror) I saw it was bolted on. It was bolted on to an aluminum cowl which I assume is there to keep a tight fit between the oil cooler and the body for forced air flow from the front grille. Upon closer examination, the upper cowl was bolted to the body by (3) 9mm plastic bolts. I got them off in about 10 minutes, the middle one is a pain due to lack of space to swing a ratchet.
The front of the car was resprayed by the PO. There is a stalactite of dried paint dripping from the bolt on the fender support cross bar, which made it impossible to remove. (2nd and 3rd picture) I did not have the time to grind/cut the extra paint away. If I had the time, it would have given me more room to get at the plastic 9mm nuts.
I tried to remove the upper cowl, but it wouldn't budge/flex. There is another vertical cowl (already removed on the first two pictures) that is attached to the cooler itself by (3) 5.5 mm screws. It was preventing the upper one from moving.
I cheated and used a 7/32" socket on the 5.5mm screws. Once I removed the vertical aluminum cowl the upper one dipped and came right off.
With the the upper one out, replacement was a 2 minute job with a 10mm bolt. Total time about 45 minutes (an hour if you have to remove and replace the front mud guard.
The yellow circles are bolt/screw locations, green is the wire clip, and light blue is the actual resistor. The 3rd upper 9mm plastic bolt is not in view but behind the wire clip and just to the left of the resistor.
The last photo shows the new resistor bolted to the upper cowl, and the inset on the lower right is the 10mm nut on the other (bottom) side.
The front of the car was resprayed by the PO. There is a stalactite of dried paint dripping from the bolt on the fender support cross bar, which made it impossible to remove. (2nd and 3rd picture) I did not have the time to grind/cut the extra paint away. If I had the time, it would have given me more room to get at the plastic 9mm nuts.
I tried to remove the upper cowl, but it wouldn't budge/flex. There is another vertical cowl (already removed on the first two pictures) that is attached to the cooler itself by (3) 5.5 mm screws. It was preventing the upper one from moving.
I cheated and used a 7/32" socket on the 5.5mm screws. Once I removed the vertical aluminum cowl the upper one dipped and came right off.
With the the upper one out, replacement was a 2 minute job with a 10mm bolt. Total time about 45 minutes (an hour if you have to remove and replace the front mud guard.
The yellow circles are bolt/screw locations, green is the wire clip, and light blue is the actual resistor. The 3rd upper 9mm plastic bolt is not in view but behind the wire clip and just to the left of the resistor.
The last photo shows the new resistor bolted to the upper cowl, and the inset on the lower right is the 10mm nut on the other (bottom) side.
