Best improvement I made in my oil change procedure was to stop trying to do it on jacks. Instead I use 2x10's under the rear wheels. Gets the car just high enough to get the oil pan under the drain in the tank and it's not so high that you get splatter. And no jacks in the way.

 

I did my first oil change late last year. Was pretty easy, and I followed the recommended method of punching a hole in the filter. I covered the hole with a bit of tape before removal, and had no significant spillage.

I also did it without the aid of any kind of lift/ramp - just used a really shallow pan. It was a bit tight, but it worked. 2x10s under the rear wheels would probably be a lot easier though..

 

When you rebuild an engine, you find it contains about a quart of oil perched in various locations. The few extra drops over an hour do not change that by much, but an open drain hole is a great temptation to a flying insect looking for a nesting place. I button up any engine openings ASAP, and stuff rags in them if I need to leave them unattended.

 

+1 works great

I bought this Blitz pan through Amazon. 12 bucks. Holds 15 qts. I like this one because it's pretty low-profile. I use it for all the cars now, I wish I'd bought one years ago.

I don't get all this "punch a hole in the filter" stuff. I stuff some paper towels under it, am reasonably careful, and I've never had more than a slight drool of oil come out of the filter when I take it off.

I feel cheated.

 

Hello,

I am a new 964 owner and I woke up this morning wondering about the oil change procedure. The question is: If you drain the oil from the tank and the case how does the pump pick up oil to begin circulation when you start the car after the oil change?

Is it best to only change the oil in the tank? Is there a way to add oil back to the case? Am I worried about something that really doesn't matter?

 

wlincoln,

First of of all welcome to Rennlist. How about posting an introductory post about your self along with a photo of the car. Next, become a rennlist member.

Just follow the procedures and tips in this thread and your oil change will be fine and you will not be damaging your engine. Go to Amazon.com and pick up the 964 enthusiast's companion for excellent reading about the different systems on the car and how they function.

 

I used the same pan Bearclaw posted and the tank drain flow quickly overcame the flow into the bottom of the container resulting in some oil spillage on the garage. It's tough to control 7-8qts of hot oil that gush out of the car in like 5 seconds.

 

The 964 system actually holds about 12 litres of oil and only about 9 litres is drained and replaced with an oil change so there is plenty left to lubricate all the vital bits on initial start-up.

No.
No.
Yes.

Marc
p.s. and welcome to Rennlist.

 

Ahhh yes, I still remember the first time I did my own oil change. I opened up that thermostat with the car all nice and warmed up. I have to say, I have never seen oil gushing out of a hole that fast before in my life. It over flowed the top of the oil pan in no time!! ...

I recommend .... kitty litter

Of course, now I am pro at it , no kitty litter required

 

I've got an oil change on my list of projects to accomplish over the winter months while the car is in hibernation. Reading the procedure, I wonder how critical is it to bring the oil up to operating temperature? I cannot imagine being able to do it in the garage during the winter here in the Chicago area. Forgive me if this is common knowledge, but can someone explain to me the downside of changing the oil cold?

 

Well, there IS that whole persnickity part about the factory manual saying the engine should be at operating temperature for an oil change...

But what do THOSE guys know about engine longevity?

Doing a search on this brings up this topic as nearer to religion than science.
It does help mix stuff up off the oil tank bottom and engine recesses, but by how much? (What, change it cold and you'll be overhauling your engine every 75k miles?)
And isn't this what oil filters are for?

Confession: I heat my oil to expletive-worthy Hot prior to oil change, but I'd say that's more to do with my OCB nature re getting every possible particle out, following factory directions and... tradition, rather than some tangible, quantitative reason.

[flame suit firmly zipped up]

 

When the oil is hot, it flows easier, i.e. better drain; also the oil thermostat is open, so you will drain some of the oil from the hoses to the oil cooler. On refill, the engine is hot and you can get the new oil up to operating temp quicker for proper oil level. Oil level should be checked at 194 degree F. But like Lonnie says, "there are more ways than one to skin a cat"

 

Thanks guys.

 

I have a modified 1988 911 with Ruf front bumper and a big oil cooler in the center of the bumper. There isn't a hole in the bumper to fit a socket into to open the cooler drain plug. Should I drill the bumper and drain the cooler? Or isn't it important. It's obvious that the previous owner didn't drain the cooler.

 

There are many ways to perform this oil change...I have two questions...1. How many quarts of oil do you put in the tank before you bring the oil up to opperating temperature followed by the "top off"? 2. I have a very difficult time reading my dipstick, so... I know she takes approximately 9 quarts of oil...I watch the oil capacity gauge and only add 1/2 of a quart at a time until the gauge on the dash registers half way. I do constantly look at my oil stick as well, however, as stated earlier, it is really hard to see the "green" oil on the stick. My car is a '94 C2. Any thoughts and/or tips welcomed! Thanks much! Cheers!