mojo747

Ok everyone. I have changed alot of oil in my lifetime, but this is different.
With great humility I ask for a detailed progression of how best to perform an oil change on my 964. The dealer wants $265.82. Ouch. Want to tackle this one myself. This thread should be easy to search for in the future for others who would like to have this info.
Let the lesson begin. . . . .

9six4

Already in the 964 DIY
964 Oil change DIY

I ordered up the crush washers last oil change so that I always have them on hand. Pretty easy, just more involved because of the two drains etc.

Phil

elbeee964

You're about to save yourself $200.

And congrats for tackling this task, in the first place!

Rocket Rob

The procedure referenced is a good one. I would just add that you make sure you have a large enough oil pan below the oil tank. I changed my oil this past weekend and my oil pan was barely enough (7.5 qts). The drain filled it to the brim and I spilled some moving the pan to empty it. Next time I go to the auto parts store, I'm going to look for a larger one. My pan is the size of the smaller on in the photos.

My two cents.

dfinnegan

I have also found that if you leave the two drain plugs open, and let it drip for a while (20-30mins) before pulling the oil filter you will get less spillage. Of course, paper towels are needed to catch what does spill.

I'm just not a fan of driving holes in the filter to let the oil out.

elbeee964

(Me, either!)
Slip one of those plastic shopping bags over the filter before spinning her off-seat.
I've a feeling you'll have only the littlest cleanup, then.

hawk911

^^

good idea!

wellcraft290

On my boat we use ziplock bags. Thicker and falls right into the bag when it unscrews off. Better then those plastic bags.

tbennett017

I took a 5 gallon bucket, and cut away the top edge to match the profile of the car. This way there are no splashes, and plenty of capacity under the oil-tank. It gushes out pretty quick. Don't drop the bolt... :P

Also, there is some argument about putting an air hole in the top of the filter before draining the tank. The idea is that it lets air in, and the oil is siphoned out when the tank drains, but I am not sure of that result. +1 on spinning the oil filter off into a plastic bag. That way there really aren't any drips at all.

I keep a bunch of crush washers handy, and have also re-furbished them by sanding them flat on a sheet of 400 grit if I don't have a new one.

ilko

Best piece of advice in this thread

Rocket Rob

I always plan on dropping the drain plug, because the oil and plug are very hot. I use a magnetic tool to fish it out. I then wipe off the magnet and place it back in the tool box.

But if you can stand the heat and catch it, all the better.

ilko

I use a socket wrench and and the bolt remains inside it. No fishing expeditions here

LVDell

The oil change procedure is outlined on p81-83 in the Porsche 911 Enthusiast's Companion 964 book by Adrian Streather. BTW, the torque specs in the DIY posted in this thread do NOT match the specs in the book.

The book specifies 52 ft-lb for the engine, 23 ft-lb for the oil filter console (housing vent), and 48 ft-lb for the thermostat housing (tank).

Dave R.

Instead of punching the filter with a screwdriver I just mark it lightly with a punch and then drill a small hole, e.g. with a 1/8" drill bit. I do that first thing, then several minutes later drain the oil tank in front of the right rear wheel. Patch of duct tape over the hole in the filter before spinning it off.

There is literally no spillage in the engine compartment - a few drops of oil stay on the inside of the filter console. It's like magic.

HardTarget

Easier and cleaner than punching a hole in the top of the filter is to open the vent plug at the filter housing(inside the wheel well)...pretty easy 17mm socket will do. I always let the oil drain for at least an hour (usually a couple) on any vehicle...