Oil change procedure.
#16
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#17
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That spec seems awfully high to me. I tried torquing it up to that level once and I was worried about stripping out the aluminum. Call me a wuss, but I just cynch it up tight, which is very approximately 30 ft-lb for the engine and tank... I've never had a leak.
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#21
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I don't have it in electronic form, only in a TSB White Book. There is or was a plan for a revised edition of Adrian's book that might contain the correct torque specifications. If you are still unsure you could check his 993 Book.
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Number9409
Model
6 Cyl.
Part Identifier1754
November 8, 1994
Subject:
Oil Drain Plug Torque
ATTENTION: Service Manager / Service Technician
Models Affected:
911 Carrera 214 model years 1989-1994
911 Turbo model years 1991-1994
911 Carrera model years 1995-on
Concern:
The torque specification for the oil drain plugs of the thermostat housing and the engine crankcase has changed.
General Information:
The torque specification for the oil drain plugs of the thermostat housing and the engine crankcase as stated on page 03-6, Volume 1 of the 911 Carrera 2/4 Workshop Manual; page 03-8, Volume 1 of the 911 Turbo 1991 Workshop Manual; and on page 03-2, Volume 1 of the 911 Carrera (993) Workshop Manual has been changed to a lower torque.
Specifications:
Crankcase drain plug 50 Nm (37 ft.lbs.) - new
Thermostat housing drain plug 50 Nm (37 ft.lbs.) - new
Number9409
Model
6 Cyl.
Part Identifier1754
November 8, 1994
Subject:
Oil Drain Plug Torque
ATTENTION: Service Manager / Service Technician
Models Affected:
911 Carrera 214 model years 1989-1994
911 Turbo model years 1991-1994
911 Carrera model years 1995-on
Concern:
The torque specification for the oil drain plugs of the thermostat housing and the engine crankcase has changed.
General Information:
The torque specification for the oil drain plugs of the thermostat housing and the engine crankcase as stated on page 03-6, Volume 1 of the 911 Carrera 2/4 Workshop Manual; page 03-8, Volume 1 of the 911 Turbo 1991 Workshop Manual; and on page 03-2, Volume 1 of the 911 Carrera (993) Workshop Manual has been changed to a lower torque.
Specifications:
Crankcase drain plug 50 Nm (37 ft.lbs.) - new
Thermostat housing drain plug 50 Nm (37 ft.lbs.) - new
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The oil comes out quickly!
If you have a drain container without a vent it WILL overflow unless you plan for The Niagra of Oil. I use a Wedco 12.5 Quart Oil Drain Pan, which works great if you leave the pour top off during the initial gush of oil and put it on before the container is full.
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#25
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Very cool, Blue! I just bought one of those Wedco drain pans. Cheapest one I found was at Ace Hardware and they ship it to your local store for free. All you need to do is present the receipt and pick it up.
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It is a pretty good product. Holds all the oil for a 964, super slim so it fits under a lowered car, stores easily, and seals so you can take the whole container to the oil recycler with out having to do a transfer. I might look into putting in a vent though.
#27
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A Porsche mechanic I met punches a hole in the filter, then pushes compressed air into the filter. He takes the filter off with large Channel-Lock pliers. Works for me.
#28
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This might be semantics, but...
While I do punch a small hole in the filter I would stay away from the compressed air. In the unlikely case that a metal particle from the punched hole enters the oil circulation system it will find its way to the engine and could cause serious damage.
While I do punch a small hole in the filter I would stay away from the compressed air. In the unlikely case that a metal particle from the punched hole enters the oil circulation system it will find its way to the engine and could cause serious damage.
#29
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My car is a 1990 and it has the vent plug in the RR wheel well.
No disrespect intended, but as for metal from the oil filter casing entering the engine, I think the likelihood of that is really, really low. Recall that oil flow through the filter goes in through the small holes and out through the large center hole on the end of the filter, so when I drill a hole in the side of the steel filter casing I'm on the upstream side of the filter element. If any shavings from the drill hole made it out of the filter (again doubtful) they would go back towards the sump, and get immediately pumped back into the new filter by the scavenge pump and captured when the engine is started.
I agree that compressed air is unnecessary, at least In my experience - carefully drill the hole, wait a few minutes (spread out a disposable plastic painters tarp, assemble tools, place the drain pan, etc.) and then drain the tank and no oil will escape the console when the filter is removed.
No disrespect intended, but as for metal from the oil filter casing entering the engine, I think the likelihood of that is really, really low. Recall that oil flow through the filter goes in through the small holes and out through the large center hole on the end of the filter, so when I drill a hole in the side of the steel filter casing I'm on the upstream side of the filter element. If any shavings from the drill hole made it out of the filter (again doubtful) they would go back towards the sump, and get immediately pumped back into the new filter by the scavenge pump and captured when the engine is started.
I agree that compressed air is unnecessary, at least In my experience - carefully drill the hole, wait a few minutes (spread out a disposable plastic painters tarp, assemble tools, place the drain pan, etc.) and then drain the tank and no oil will escape the console when the filter is removed.