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Old 03-31-2009, 11:51 PM
  #136  
DaveConn
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964russ and Jeff C. -

Sorry for taking so long to respond. Spring Break, family obligations, etc., have kept me, for some reason, from being able to spend the wee hours staring at Rennlist...

russ - Thank you! The shifter and linkage setup is a custom unit built by Jeff Gamroth at Rothsport, since my car (1990) does not easily accept the factory RS parts. It is solid billet aluminum, and functions incredibly!

Jeff - Ha! Not for long! I was checking out the VBD Graphics website yesterday. Saw a beautiful 964 that looked a little familiar... No worries, though; I'm not going to go too crazy, but my car does look awful WHITE sometimes.

Your car must be seriously stripped to get down in that territory. I assume you're still running the steel trunk lid (?). And do I see a sunroof line in your avatar?

Either way, IMHO your car is beautifully finished (and I'm guessing damn fast as well). I recently joined NASA, and am planning on trying to make it, with a buddy of mine, to a couple of their events this summer. Perhaps we'll have a chance to meet up.

Best regards,

Dave
Old 04-01-2009, 01:00 AM
  #137  
Jeff Curtis
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Daveconn, I don't know about "seriously" stripped as it has all the items required by PCA to race in a stock class and just "skinny" enough to make it by in GTS3 with NASA.

I do have the factory sunroof but presently looking into the cleanest method to alleviate the inner roofskin and all the hardware yet fasten the steel sunroof panel back in the car so it's "attractive". PCA H class will allow me to do this so I'm going to do it -42lbs from what I understand.

I have "hacked" two sunroof mechanisms from BMW E30 racecars for two friends but nothing "pretty" became of it...I want mine "PRETTY"!!

I almost have all of the AC stuff removed, just the evaporator coils, etc. - whatever is under the fuel tank. I have the lower dash removed due to the rollcage and presently my car is that light because there is absolutely NO carpet/glue in it...but my brain cells are scarce these days because of it.

I have to put carpet back in and have Thomas' pictures of how to go about doing so, I probably won't put ALL of the pieces in but just enough to pass PCA tech. and look good as well.

I imagine that will add about 10-15lbs back to the car but removing the sunroof and all of remaining AC components should land me pretty close to minimum weight per HP for NASA GTS3, I still have some weight to lose...and after this past weekend racing, maybe it'll help?

...I'm just about "there"...won Saturday's race in the pouring rain but in the dry race for Sunday, the car needed about .1 sec. a lap to be on podium...got 4th.
Old 04-01-2009, 01:32 AM
  #138  
Jeff Curtis
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Does anyone know of a link or somewhere here on Rennlist where someone has successfully cut out the sunroof tray and all of it's components and gotten the panel back in so it's "PRETTY"??

I figured out how to fasten the rear of the sunroof panel back in but the front may pose a challenge, thinking large-headed rivets to aluminum brackets, same to the bracing up in the roof...the rear of the panel has a nice long flange that extends back and you can drill for rivets and line them up with a roof support in a "corrugated" section that would allow for the use of rivets without going thru the roof.

Shoot, maybe I have this all figured out and I'm just too much of a PUSS to pull the trigger??
Old 04-01-2009, 08:38 AM
  #139  
ThomasC2
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Originally Posted by Mark J
Any chance of a measurement of wheel face to dash face Thomas? To see just how far it comes into the cockpit.
Isnt there a stubbier (ie shorter) boss than that available to fit our cars ?

edit: just measured my RS wheel and its face is 17cm from face of rev counter.
The top of my wheel is 19 cm from the top of the dashboard. The spacer is 5 cm so without it it would be 14 cm.

I'm 191 cm tall so my legs need some space, but with this setup I'm close enough to the wheel for driving on track.
Old 04-01-2009, 09:45 AM
  #140  
Mark J
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19cm really? Thats only 2cm further in than mine and yet in your side photo i would say its a good 5cm + further into the cockpit

i think i measured clock face to centre of steering face so perhaps the camber of the wheel is deceptive ?

Does it need the spacer or is that something you wanted for leg/arm lengths?
Old 04-01-2009, 09:55 AM
  #141  
Low 964
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19cm you must drive from the back.....

My monte carlo is 7cm to the top centre (approx 5.5cm to the back) of rim from top lip of dash, that is with 10cm momo boss...........
Old 04-01-2009, 12:06 PM
  #142  
ThomasC2
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As I said. I need room for my legs and I hate hitting the wheel when you move around your feet for throttle or breaking. I took this pic using my right arm. It shows my position when strapped into the seat. I'm holding the wheel at 9 clock with my left arm. If I put my arm straight forward I'm leaning my wrist on top of the wheel and that's a good position for driving. You have to be able to turn the wheel (with strength/control) half a turn with your hands still in the 9 & 3 clock position. With this set up everything feels just fine.

The distance from the Tacho to the top of the wheel (same as Mark) is 26 cm.

Last edited by ThomasC2; 02-22-2010 at 03:03 AM.
Old 04-01-2009, 12:12 PM
  #143  
Mark J
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ah 26cm, that sounds more like it to match the photo. Thats a heck of a difference to my current wheel.

Does the wheel need that spacer between s/wheel and 'fat screw thread' looking part of steering column or is that thinner screw thread part the actual boss itself ?

I wouldnt want the wheel to protrude that far into my space with my shorter legs than thou
Old 04-01-2009, 12:24 PM
  #144  
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Does it make indicating more hassle?
Old 04-01-2009, 02:05 PM
  #145  
ThomasC2
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indicating....it's a stretch for my fingers but I'm used to it and don't think about it anymore.

You need the 1 cm spacer in addition to the boss (the standard MOMO boss is the one with the rubber cover) if you want to use a horn button. Like the one I have with the Porsche logo or a one with the Momo logo. The thin space is included in the kit.
Old 04-01-2009, 03:46 PM
  #146  
Mark J
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ah, so you voluntarily installed the extra 5cm spacer ? Thats a relief, i thought i would have to forego my idea of putting that (or an OMP) wheel in.
Old 04-02-2009, 06:53 PM
  #147  
Mark J
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sent this via pm to rob as he kindly sent me his templates, but wondering if anyone else can answer as not sure Robs about and i want to crack on in the morning :-

Operation 'Track-mat & weight loss' has begun

Got all the materials this afternoon.

Have taken out the drivers soundproofing and carpets and made my foam supports and started to take out the passenger side as well.
Now my first questions !

on the passenger side, the s/proofing goes along base of the footwell and then up the bulkhead at front of car all in one long piece. Did you take out the bit that goes up the front as well? Its where people traditionally rest their feet and wondered whats behind it before i ripped it out. Are there cables/relays etc behind there to worry about. Should i leave that bit in place for feet/protection or rip it out as well? I would rather lose it but thought i had better be on the safe side before i cut it away.

Also, i noticed that the gear box tunnel sides have the same horrible thick soundproofing in the footwell area. I was wondering if i could lift the carpet up the sides and cut away all the s/proofing upto the centre console ? Is that feasible/worth doing? Whats the sound like from the transmission? any noisier ?
I can then glue the carpet back down. I could even glue in some lightweight camping foam in place of the thick stuff.

I take it i can do the same with the rear footwells as well?

If anyone who has done this already can let me know, ta
Old 04-02-2009, 07:12 PM
  #148  
Jeff Curtis
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There is some NASTY glue holding the insulation material to the transmission "tunnel" area, you can remove the carpet and padding, just simply spray glue over that area and install your new carpet...if installing new carpet don't bother to remove that crap, you'll lose brain cells...trust me.

As for the passenger footwell, yes, in reading what your aim is I would nicely cut and leave that padded piece of insulation in and carpet over...there is one of the main harnesses and the battery cable that run up in that area.

If you remove too much material you will hear the transmission a little more...but I like that!

I JUST did all of this, it's hard work to get ALL the glue and insulation out but it looks pretty cool...now I'm going to carpet over it...I worked too hard to clean it up only to carpet over it but PCA Club Racing rules for "STOCK" classes dictates the need for carpet.

ALTHOUGH we gotta have rollcages, fire systems and everything else...we have to have FLAMMABLE/TOXIC carpet - duh.
Old 04-03-2009, 09:53 AM
  #149  
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Thanks Jeff, i left the vertical part in the passenger footwell in for now. Might see if some lighter weight camping foam would do the trick at some point.

Also left the transmission tunnel s/proofing on. When i took up the carpet to the centre console i found the felt underlay wasnt anywhere near as thick as the footwell stuff and with the NASA type glue holding it down decided to leave it there as it was breaking up when i tried to yank it ...for now
Old 04-03-2009, 03:38 PM
  #150  
Jeff Curtis
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Yeah, ripping out the interior, carpeting and insulation is kind of a learning process...you figure out how far you want to go and gauge it against your patience and if you have enough brain cells. I lost about 25% of my brain cells doing two BMWs last year and now my 964...I can't even remember my dog's name anymore - heck, half the time I can't remember that I have a dog!


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