Ant71

An old topic I’m sure.

My car on a resent trip to Brighton stated to smoke from the rear right wheel arch.
After a good clean up I found the problem, the metal elbow joint just before the filter housing is very badly corroded (rotten) and seems to of split letting oil seep out on the secondary exhaust hence the smoke.

So my next question is this a DIY job or one for the professionals?

I enjoy working on my car and would give myself a 6.5/10 for technical ability (missed spent youth on VWs ) but don’t want to make things worse. The corrosion is bad on the filter end or the pipe so I’m guessing it’s going to be hard work loosening it, the thermostat end is an unknown.

I under stand I would need to drain the oil remove the oil tank then tackle the tricky pipe fixings. Then install the new pipe, also probably good idea to change the other rubber pipes around the old tank and thermostat? (Any idea which ones will need changing?).

Is there any wonderful full how to’s out there?

so what your thoughts/ Suggestions ?

Many thanks

Anthony

93 c2 black with cream.

Geoffrey

The job can be a PTIA, especially if the lines are corroded.

Ant71

Thanks for the reply Geoffrey. I still fancy giving it a go. If I do it once then I could have a go a replacing the other oil line as and when the fail. So is there any pitfalls to avoid? Do you have to remove the oil tank?

Thanks for your help

Anthony

Geoffrey

You may want to just go ahead and remove the oil tank to clean the area and get it out of the way. I would replace the small rubber hoses at the bottom, but be aware, there are 2 different ones based on the year of the car. Get the right one. The biggest problem you will have is getting enough leverage on the line at the oil filter to turn it. I use a long wrench so it sticks into the wheel well where I can get leverage on it. You may also want to get new crush rings for the oil line adapters because they may rotate loose if you cannot hold them with another wrench. In some cases, it may be easier to cut the old line and remove the oil line adapter and either work with it on a bench, or replace the oil line adapter. In either case, you'll need those crush rings.

altarchsa

Just did this last month. I used a pair of large Cresent wrenches and was just able to break the lines loose. The wrenches were different brands and one provided a little more clearance due to jaw size/configuration. Sears has some large adjustable wrenches with jaws that appear to provide more clearance, but I noticed there are some wrenches specially designed for this job available for about $60, I think it was, at Pelican or Vertex (can't remember which). Obviously my bicep strength to break these fittings loose is stronger than my memory.

I think Geoffrey's idea to cut the line and remove the "adapter" is smart. It's much easier to break it loose from the housi ng than to separate the line from the "adapter". No holding of the adapter required.

I recently posted that a good hydraulic repair shop can fabricate a new line using the ends of your OEM line if they are in good shape. It's a significant savings.

Also, I could not find OEM replacements for the two short hoses at the rear side of the reservoir so I just shopped the radiator hose rack at the local auto parts until I found some about the right diameter with enough straight section to cut a 3"+/- straight piece off. They are holding fine. Even found the middle out of one that was perfect for the slightly bent one on the bottom of the thermostat. Wheel well is dry as a bone since repair.

ducnine

Last winter I replaced hoses as circled in the picture (#'s 21,22,26,30,&46) I also replace the Oil Sending unit #14 (instructions are on this site http://www.porsche964.co.uk/)

You have to have a lot of patience, especially to get 21,22,26,&30 on. At least for me it was a pain. To get the old hoses off, I wound up carefully cutting the brittle old rubber hoses (except 46)

#46 was relatively easy since I got the special oil line Spanners from Pelican. I purchased all myhoses and sender unit through a Porsche dealer.

I would not say it was easy to do but with the experiance you say you have, it should be do-able.

Ant71

thanks guys! I wonder how long the post would take for the spanners to arrive here in the UK?

I have patch up the pipe for now with liquid metal type stuff, it seem to be holing for now. So I have just got to make my mind up/ order the parts.

I hear that is best to buy Porsche pipes in stead of the cheaper ones on line because of fit, any thoughts on this?

stevepaa

I replaced all my oil hoses and lines even the ones up to the front. As you see one go bad, you should attend to the others. It has been my experinece that similar items have similar lifetimes.