chancecasey

Just got the ERP monoballs, great, now how the F do I remove the original rubber ones? I've searched and found similar threads but nothing about the 964 trailing arm factory bushing.

There doesn't seem to be any retaining flange or anything, just a steel-cased rubber cartridge that would seem to be just pushed out. I had it on a hydraulic press yesterday, pushing on the metal part inside the rubber, and while the rubber deformed quite a bit, the press started to REALLY load up/bottom out and the steel casing around the rubber did not budge in relation to the arm.

I tried heating the arm with a torch but I don't think I was able to get enough heat in it. I'd prefer not to throw the whole arm in an oven as I just pressed in new bearings.

Is there some kind of trick to this besides heat and brute force?

Tom911

Chance,

If I remember correctly you have to push half out through the back and the other half from the front. Original bushing is in two pieces. Putting it in a press doen't do anything.

Tom 911

NineMeister

As Tom says, the insert is in two halves so pushing on the outer side will do nothing. One solution is to simply weld a washer to one side of the inner piece, put a large bolt in from the other side and use the press again to push on the head of the bolt, so pushing the welded half out of the bottom. Once this is out, turn it over and simply push the other half out with a suitable mandrel. Hope this helps.

chancecasey

Cool! Thanks guys! I'm such a dope - I went in last night and took a look at the ERP's, saw that flange on the outer part, measured the diameter, and what do you know it's the same as what is in there, meaning there's a shoulder in the control arm about 1/8 inch down, so obviously pushing from the outside will only break stuff at best.

I took a small drift and stuck it in at an angle to try to pound out one of them outwards, to no avail.

The washer trick sounds good - I will do that!

Jasko

chance - I just put in ERp monoballs this weekend. I have pics of the whole process for removing the original rubberized bearing. I'll try to get them up here soon.

The first side takes about 3-4 hours to figure out. The other side came apart in 45 minutes.

Briefly - 1) cut the rubber sleeve around each ot the steel ends- that stuff holds the central sleeves in place.
2) pry out the OUTER portion of the sleeve - the INNER portion is more difficult to remove.
3) I drilled out the "plastic" sleeve that holds the INNER section - then pry out the INNER section.
4) now you are looking at 2 metal sleeves which sandwich a ruberized bearing - cut the inner metal sleeve with a hack saw and knock it out of the arm.
5) the final metal sleeve can be driven out carefully with a punch.
6) pry out the metal liners from each end.

Remember - all of the rubberized material is stuck to a removable metal sleeve - not to the trailing arm itself.

Like I said, I'll put the pics up later- it will make more sense -

Dave

Jasko

Anyone know if the monoballs are put in DRY or Lubed?


Dave

chancecasey

Jerry Woods told me, while we were standing in front of an incredible 965 fabcar in his shop, to use a little loctite with the new monoballs as the arm hole tends to wallow out a bit and you don't want the outer sleeves of the monoball rotating/moving around.

chancecasey

So if you get a tight fit maybe the loctite isn't necessary, but you definitely do NOT want to lube the outer sleeve / control arm junction.

Jasko

Here are pics for removing rear bearing:

Cut rubber here and pry out OUTER side:

Jasko

Next cut rubber around the inner washer and pop out the washer. You will be looking down the innards of the bearing. Drill into the plastic sleeve to loosen the innermost metal sleeve:

Jasko

You can now pry out the INNER bearing side. Cut the rubber from around the inner washer and remove it:

Jasko

You are now looking at the central support - it consists (from inner to outer) of a plastic sleeve - rubber- metal sleeve- rubber - and a final metal shell. The final metal shell is pressed against the control arm, so don't go deeper than this outermost shell.

You need to remove the plastic sleeve (in pieces) first, then pry/ cut out the inner metal shell. This will free up the outermost shell - which I was able to then tap out with a punch:

Jasko

Finally, tap out the end caps at both sides. I carefully used a punch to bend them out of the way:

Jasko

Here's what comes out:

Jasko

Gratuitous cage shot from 964 project car!!!