how to remove na trailing arm bushings?
10-25-2007, 06:36 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Dave, while I applaud your tenacity (I would have given up much sooner) did you go this way because you didn't have access to a press?
Unless I'm misunderstanding, isn't the "weld a washer" technique simply to weld a washer or something else flat on one of the metal inserts, then take a bolt or rod of some sort, insert it from the other side, and then PRESS the bolt/rod, so the the metal insert will carry the whole 1/2 of the assembly out the other side in one shot?
Unless I'm misunderstanding, isn't the "weld a washer" technique simply to weld a washer or something else flat on one of the metal inserts, then take a bolt or rod of some sort, insert it from the other side, and then PRESS the bolt/rod, so the the metal insert will carry the whole 1/2 of the assembly out the other side in one shot?
10-25-2007, 07:40 PM
#19
Racer
Chance - You are right, I don't have access to a press, so I went with the "take it out piecemeal" approach. Once you figure out what is what - it doesn't take much more than 45 minutes. Of course, it destroys the bearing, which seemed to be in decent shape, by the way.
With a press, you could press out the OUTER sleeve by coming through the center hole if you welded something across the opening. Then turn around and press out the INNER sleeve. Probably preserve the bearing if that is desired.
INterestingly, I have the older ERP monoballs, and it looks like the inner sleeve OEM pieces are "reused" in the ERP devices. At least those ERP pieces have Porsche 964# on them.
Marc - thanks, glad to help.
Dave
With a press, you could press out the OUTER sleeve by coming through the center hole if you welded something across the opening. Then turn around and press out the INNER sleeve. Probably preserve the bearing if that is desired.
INterestingly, I have the older ERP monoballs, and it looks like the inner sleeve OEM pieces are "reused" in the ERP devices. At least those ERP pieces have Porsche 964# on them.
Marc - thanks, glad to help.
Dave
11-11-2007, 05:09 AM
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
VOILA
Dave thanks for writing this up. I just finished getting the old ones out and the ERP ones in. 
Bit of a tight squeeze with the loctite. Now I see what you were asking about RE lube - whether or not the brass colored cartridge, or the black inner inserts need lube. I don't know but it would be good to find out.
Anyone remove the A arm bushings yet?
P.S. - one of the rear arm bushing cases did not come out at all, even with the plastic cut out. I took a hack saw, assembled it inside the hole, and cut the inner metal case and pried out a little strip - gave it just enough give to hammer the whole thing out.
Bit of a tight squeeze with the loctite. Now I see what you were asking about RE lube - whether or not the brass colored cartridge, or the black inner inserts need lube. I don't know but it would be good to find out.Anyone remove the A arm bushings yet?
P.S. - one of the rear arm bushing cases did not come out at all, even with the plastic cut out. I took a hack saw, assembled it inside the hole, and cut the inner metal case and pried out a little strip - gave it just enough give to hammer the whole thing out.
03-15-2008, 09:47 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As Tom says, the insert is in two halves so pushing on the outer side will do nothing. One solution is to simply weld a washer to one side of the inner piece, put a large bolt in from the other side and use the press again to push on the head of the bolt, so pushing the welded half out of the bottom. Once this is out, turn it over and simply push the other half out with a suitable mandrel. Hope this helps.
Had my bushings removed this week and installed ERP monoballs.
We welded a piece of steel on the old bushing just like Colin suggested and pressed the first half into a pipe.(see picture).
03-12-2014, 08:04 AM
#23
Three Wheelin'
There are other options to pressing them out. I used a gas MAP torch to burn out all the rubber, and then most of the metal parts just fall out. You're then just left with the outer casing to cut and drift out. Took about 15-20mins. Not quite so enviromentally frendly as a press mind!
