Shift lights installation
mine is within 50 rpms of being exact at 1K RPM's - also the lights have some "lag" in them when you are dropping off the throttle they will stay on below the RPM limit i think the resolution they state in the manual is +/- 50 RPMS

In general, cars use the setting 0.5, 1, 2 or 4. Settings like 1.5, 2.5 and 3 are used by 3 or 5 cylinder engines, typically motorbikes. This calibration is related to the number of sparks the engine makes per revolution. If you connected directly to an ignition driver output, you would get 1 spark every 2 rotations (or 0.5 sparks per revolution). If it was a wasted spark ignition system, it would be 1. If it is a tacho signal, it is typically 1, 2 or 4, representing every spark that occurs (or an even multiple of).
The difference between using 0.5, 1, 2 or 4 is quite a lot. It is often the accuracy of the tacho guages that are way off. I've measured some that have been out more than 1,200rpm! The analog gauges are also quite slow. The Shift-I has been aggressively tweaked to respond VERY FAST to track RPM, but measures every single pulse to make sure it doesn't trigger from a bit of electrical noise, won't flicker and is accurate. It might seem it comes on a little early compared to the tacho, however it is really the mechanical tacho that lags the engines RPM... particularly with performance engines
If you see lag when going off in throttle, that is intentional! It's a big benefit too! For example, if you had a light that come on at 5,500rpm. If it went off at 5,499rpm, then it would flicker. A shift light that flickers is useless, because it should only do something like that when you hitting the shift point. So we programmed it to have hysteresis. This means that the light will turn on at 5,500rpm, but has to drop a certain amount before it turns off. This effect is usually not noticed by most. By default, it has to drop either 350rpm or 25% of the RPM towards the next lowest light, whichever is smallest. However this setting, like most, is configurable! See page 15. You can reduce it down to 12.5%, 6.25% or even turn it off.
A lot of engineering went into this device to make it both the best and the most usable you can get. Which is why it's a pleasure to provide support for.
Hope you guys don't mind me dropping in
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After looking at some pics on their website, I went with Blue/Red, as it seemed a little easier for me to see....I have trouble with Red/Green.
I suppose it doesn't matter.....once they start flashing at me, I'm sure I'll figure out what they're trying to tell me.
A) Steering wheel column in front of the tach - right now I have twisted my tach so the redline is at the 12 o'clock position. If I installed the lights on the steering column I'll have to twist the tach back to the stock position. My other concern is whether the lights will be visible there, because they're not exactly in my line of sight. If they are bright enough I'm sure I'll be able to see them but it sort of defeats the purpose.
B) Top of the winshield - I think that will work well, but I haven't tested it with my helmet on to see if it's in my line of sight. I don't have sun visors in my car and there is a big 5" banner across the top of the windshield which will keep sun glare away from the lights.
Below are a couple of pics of my interior. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Even though they are lower, they are bright enough to see in your peripheral vision.
I can post a picture when I get home later today if you'd like.
Marc
I had the same problem that you do in that I could not see the lights when I was in my seat - So I made a aluminum bracket that raised the lights up about 1 1/2 inch to make it visible over the steering wheel. I made the bracket out of aluminum sheet metal and used the double sided adhesive tape to hold in place ( lights come with same ) and I just stuck the light on top of the bracket - Been there for 9 months now - no issues - I prefer this position as it is my line of sight of the road when I am autocrossing and do not have to look down at the tach to see the RPM now -
Gus



