Shift lights installation
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Rob you made it sound easy running power from the radio! I had to drill a hole in the sheet metal to get to the underside of the firewall - did you have to do the same? Marc, how did you do it?
I could find no other access from the gauge area. I then sealed my little access opening through the sheet metal with some high temp silicone. Also, taking apart the tach plug is very easy, and soldering into the #6 pin is very simple. It takes away the chance you have a frayed cord that might touch an adjacent pin...
I could find no other access from the gauge area. I then sealed my little access opening through the sheet metal with some high temp silicone. Also, taking apart the tach plug is very easy, and soldering into the #6 pin is very simple. It takes away the chance you have a frayed cord that might touch an adjacent pin...
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Garrett:
I did not mount mine by the vent like Rob did but rather mounted it on the turn signal assembly in the front of the tach. like in the picture above.
I ran the wire through by the left upper edge of the turn signal assembly and through the huge grommet carrying all the tach and speed cables down (located right behind the tach).
When I installed my stereo I had thought ahead and left spare ground, ignition, and always-on 12v cables coiled up by the underside of the glove box and used those when I wired in the lights as well as the TraqMate.
Marc
I did not mount mine by the vent like Rob did but rather mounted it on the turn signal assembly in the front of the tach. like in the picture above.
I ran the wire through by the left upper edge of the turn signal assembly and through the huge grommet carrying all the tach and speed cables down (located right behind the tach).
When I installed my stereo I had thought ahead and left spare ground, ignition, and always-on 12v cables coiled up by the underside of the glove box and used those when I wired in the lights as well as the TraqMate.
Marc
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Garrett, Did you remove the dash top? there is a hole on the pass side through the sheet metal that i used - i ran it over and down through there.
No Drilling..... our cars could be different though
Good call on the soldering to the insdie of the plug
No Drilling..... our cars could be different though
Good call on the soldering to the insdie of the plug
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Hey Guys!! Which calibration value did you use? The original setting from the factor (2)? I finally got my engine installed so I could fiddle with this thing!
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if i remeber correctly i used setting #4 and set the lights up initially for 1 light on at 1000 rpm.
then i moved the range up to 500 rpm per light (1st light on at 4000 rpm)
then i moved the range up to 500 rpm per light (1st light on at 4000 rpm)
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hey guys - everyone else get their lights to work right? I can't get it to come anywhere close to being calibrated! It seems I need a 3.5 setting, of which there is none! At value=3, the lights overshoot - at 4 they lag. They are not accurate which defeats the purpose, eh?
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Thanks for the interesting info - got one and installed - When i made my aluminum bracket though I had to raise it up about 3/4 of an inch ( same location ) for the lights to be visable over the stock steering wheel from my sitting position. The wiring went easy - except the tach link / the wiring for my tach was rather short which made it rather hard work getting the wires set in proper place. Ran hot and ground from radio as suggested - I have it set to 500 RPM intervals and starting at 4000, so it goes red at 7000- Works great
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I am not sure exactly waht you mean by calibration factor of 4 -
When you reeceive it is set up for 1000 and starts at 1000 - You jsut have to read the instructions to set the starting RPM and the variable for the RPM in- between lights - I think you hold down the tow buttons untill you geta certain flash readinga and then press one button or the other until the first light flashes 4 times - This may not be right as it was soemthing I did with the instructions in hand as it took me a little while to get ti right - but now it works like a champ - once you get intot he higher RPM range though I have noticed that the light come on a little early - which is fine by me as by the time you see the second yellow light up you need to shift anyway cause red is right behind it coming up fast -Do you have the instruction sheet that came with??
When you reeceive it is set up for 1000 and starts at 1000 - You jsut have to read the instructions to set the starting RPM and the variable for the RPM in- between lights - I think you hold down the tow buttons untill you geta certain flash readinga and then press one button or the other until the first light flashes 4 times - This may not be right as it was soemthing I did with the instructions in hand as it took me a little while to get ti right - but now it works like a champ - once you get intot he higher RPM range though I have noticed that the light come on a little early - which is fine by me as by the time you see the second yellow light up you need to shift anyway cause red is right behind it coming up fast -Do you have the instruction sheet that came with??
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did you get it to work corretly yet?
i can redo my set up tonight if you need (i think i will have time) but the easiest is to do as suggested above. start at 1K and work up from there, it was a trail and error process to make sure it was hitting at the right RPM values, I started with low RPM values then just adjusted the 1st light start point after i had it set at 1-2-3K
<i feel like my directions are steering you wrong though with not much luck implimenting them>
i can redo my set up tonight if you need (i think i will have time) but the easiest is to do as suggested above. start at 1K and work up from there, it was a trail and error process to make sure it was hitting at the right RPM values, I started with low RPM values then just adjusted the 1st light start point after i had it set at 1-2-3K
<i feel like my directions are steering you wrong though with not much luck implimenting them>