KirkF

This weekend I finally made some headyway on my rebuild so I thought I would post some pics, etc.

I originally dropped the engine because the clutch was giving me problems and there was too many oil leaks to count.

-In this rebuild I am going to remove the RS lightweight flywheel and go to a dual mass flywheel.
-I am replacing my 1989 pistons & cylinders with late model 1994 pistons & cylinders that have the provision for the sealing ring
- New phosporous-bronze valve guides and new Intake & exhaust valves to correct the damage from a previously done top end rebuild.
-New valve springs
-Machine my 1989 heads to accept the sealing rings
-ARP rod bolts
-Regrind cams (lobes had pitting)
-Rebush rocker arms
-Rebush rods

(and some other stuff, but its late...)

Here are some pics of the engine when it came out:

KirkF

The first thing I did was to mount the crankshaft on the flywheel and clean it to remove any residue from the micropolishing of the journals. (Brake clean works well with compressed air to blow out all the oil passages)

Then I cleaned the rods as well.

Next I measured the crankshaft main and rod bearing journals to ensure they were on spec. (All of them came up within limits for standard bearings)

KirkF

I cheacked the bearing clearances on all the rods using plastigage.

KirkF

Then I recleaned the rods, crank and bearings with alchohol to do the real installation.
The arp rod bolts require special arp lube to get the correct torque. I used liqui moly for my rebuild grease on the bearings.

KirkF

Next I prepped the two case halves and setup all the required tools and parts.

The #8 nose bearing got a new seal and o-ring as well as some threebond 1211 to ensure it would seal well.

KirkF

I used pieces of sheet metal to hold the pistions & timing chain straight up for the case assembly.
For the case perimeter I used threebond 1104 and for the webs I used locktite 574.
I wish I had more pics of this step, but the threebond tacks up pretty fast and I didn't have time to grab the camera.

I wish I hadn't tried to put the RMS in for this step, it ended up pushing itself out later on anyways.

KirkF

There is very few pictures of this stage, as all available hands were guiding the case halves together, and then securing the perimeter nuts.

For the case perimeter nuts and through bolts:
-New perimeter nuts were tightened in clockwise order around the entire case, but not torqued.
-The case through bolts were installed with green viton o-rings and dow corning 111 lube, and then torqued in a cross-wise pattern (as per manual) to 37 ft lbs
-Then the perimeter nuts were torqued in clockwise order around the case to 25 ft lbs

I used the cap from a sharpie as a tool to push the case throughbolt O-rings over the threads. It worked great. (Thanx axl911) I applied plenty of dow corning 111 o-ring lube at this stage.

One mistake I made was I should have had these throughbolts ready to go with the O-rings already gooped up on them.

When the case leaks like a sieve I will get it right on the reseal...


Anyways, More next week.
I am going to run out of parts soon because some stuff is still out for powder coating and dichromating.


Kirk

C4-JohnO

Great pics, thanks

Geoffrey

Looks like you are in good shape. On the camshafts, most of the 964 and 993 camshafts I've seen lately have pitting on the lobes, usually more on the left than the right. I'm not sure the cause of this, whether it is the smaller oil restrictor in the camshaft housing compared with the earlier 3.2/3.3 engine, or if it is a soft camshaft. I have been running chilled cast core billet new camshafts ground to my specs and they have been lasting great in track environments. There are some 964 "sport" versions out there that work with the stock engine mangement system and wake the engine up.

forklift

I wish I could do that.

Why are you going from a LWF to a DMF? Just Curious, thanks.

skruggs964

Wow...wish I had the courage to attempt something like that! I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but I know this would be waaay over my head. 20 years ago, I did a top-end rebuild on a 2.2 litre Dodge Turismo engine (Shelby Charger)....but of course, that was a whole different animal.

Good luck, and thanks for the pics!

KirkF

-My cams were the same, pitted on the left, and not on the right.

-I am removing the LWF becuase the stalling irritates me and I had to do the clutch, etc anyways so I wanted to see what the car felt like with a DMF. If it don't like how it feels I'll go back to the LWF and work a little harder to resolve the stalling issues. (In retrospect I would have liked to see if an idle adapt would have fixed the problem... But live and learn)

CraigC

Wow,
I would never be brave enough to attempt a rebuild like this. Nice pics, good luck.

Craig
91 Porsche 964 C2, TechArt 18” wheels, TechArt wing, RSA front sway bar, Fabspeed cat bypass, TechArt J pipe, TechArt chip, TechArt strut brace, drilled airbox, H & R turbo springs, Koni adjustable front, Bilstein sport rear, alum pedals, xenon headlights.
04 Subaru WRX STI
98 Honda VTR 1000

bwoodry

Wow is right, looks like fun!


When you are finished what do you estimate the cost to be?

Bob

Chris M.

Nice work...what an undertaking.

c